Gidday guys,

I am wondering what the steps envolved in lowering the rear end of a swing axle beetle.

I have been told that it normally takes about six hours to do in a workshop, I am wondering if this something that I can do in my garage with pretty basic tools i.e. Jack, hand tools or do I need to do it on a hoist etc.

Thanks Paul.

i am no expert and i have never lowered a bettle but i think you will need 2 car stands raise up the rear ,remove all the brakes including brake lines(probably losen the axle nut before raising) ,undo all bolts holding the axle tube and the 4 bolts on the cover plate at the other end mark where the spline is and turn as many teeth as needed to get the desired height ,i think 1 spline is around 25mm. then replace it all making sure that you use a new gasket kit on the brakes .
could b wrong this is roughly how i lowered a straight axle conversion on my bus

Also does any one know where I might find some adjustable swing plates for a beetle... makes the whole process so much easier, I have a mate who has them in his van.

[Edited on 28-10-2004 by paulgrey]

im not sure but ccb in penrith might make them
47 229 313 they will at least point you in the right direction.
still to put the adjustable spring plates in you still have to go through the whole process anyway and once you have the height set how often will you need to change it

Usually takes me about 1 1/2 hours.
There is a process which not many people follow that makes it a lot easier to do.
Can explain it in detail if you want.
I have done this to over ? cars in the past 10 years,so i sorta got the hang of it by now....

Try here

http://www.vw-resource.com/rear_suspension.html 

There are a few more articles on the net.

There is no doubt that when attempting it for the 1st time it is a daunting task. But after the 1st, 2nd .... time it becomes quite easy. As DragBug said, couple of hours, no worries.

Let us know how ya get on.

start the explaination. i will be wanting to do it to my 57. already have the beam to go in.

There was also a thread (here I think) that gave a chart on the number of inner and outer spline rotations = degree change = ride height change.

If you're keen enough, do a search, fingers crossed.

who me?

yeah! u said you could...

http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?action=attachment&ti...

[Edited on 28-10-2004 by 56astro]

[Edited on 28-10-2004 by 56astro]

[Edited on 28-10-2004 by 56astro]

OK,i'll try make it as understandable as possible.
First i DONT do it by spline numbers.
I work off measurements for both sides.
1.With wheels on,in gear and hopefully a mate on the brake pedal,nock the split pin out of the rear axle and loosen the axle nut.you will need a good breaker bar and length of tube for leverage.
2.Place car up on stands and remove axle nuts then remove wheel and drum together.grab both sides of wheel and work it off.
3.Now you can get to your handbrake cables easy enough,release them from hook and out through the backing plate.twist as you pull.
4.Shockers off,spring plate covers off (dont pull plates out yet)axle and bump stop bracket bolts out.axle's out.
5.OK,so youve got the plates hanging in front of you.Take a measurement from the top right (as you look at it) of the spring plate up to a solid part off the body,i use the bump stop top section from the floor pan.
Write the measurment down for that side.repeat using same points for other side.
6.Move inner spline as it gives you more finer adjustment (the outer is either not enough or way to much in most cases).as you pull the plate and torsion bar out together (slowly) move it upwards slighlty then place it back in.Now take a measurement and compare it to your standard height measurement.
7.Here is your lower higher starting point.You can now get it just how you want it as you have the starting point measurement on hand.
Remember to use the same points to measure for both sides.And once you find your desired height all you have to do is move the other side to match the first sides length.Then your even.
8.Now put it back together in reverse and enjoy your new height.

Dont forget to get it out of gear and release the handbrake once the wheels are off the ground.But put it back in gear with handbrake on when your doing the axle nuts back up.

Ive probably left things out but ive tried to explain how i use measurements rather than a hit and miss with counting splines.
You will always be able to refer back to your height and move up and down to your desires now.
Sorry bout the long thread but you asked.
If wanted i can email with detailed pics.

listen to dragbug not my post his makes alot more sense

Ah shucks T2^
Now i'm blushing....

could you email me with the pics pls? I'm not doing it anytime soon, but in the (hopefully) not too distant future I plan to!

I'll u2u my email addy...
Cheers

Thanks guys... I will have a good read of the info, then pick up my nuts and give it a go. :bounce

The main thing really is to becareful when removing the spring plate from the lower stop.

I use a jack to press the spring plate up. Then use a prybar to gently pry the spring plate past the lower stop as I let the jack down.

That way there is no sudden release of the spring plate as the tension comes off it and less chance of personal injury....

Oh and MARK the position of the spring plate relative to the "hub" (stub axle, what ever you call it) BEFORE undoing all the bolts otherwise you won't get the wheel alignment right again, short of taking it to a shop.

Cheers
Jeremy

[Edited on 28-10-2004 by Jeza]

thanks dragbug that was pretty darn helpful

appreciated dragbug. will be giving it a go.

i lowered the bus today using dragbugs method on my straight axle conversion ,it took around 3 hours ,i did it three times because of trial and error on the height, wanted it as low as possible without bottoming out on my driveway.
its a good method although on a bus you have to take the wheel off other wise you wont get it back on.
cheers mate :beer:beer:beer:beer:beer:beer hick

http://oldeskool.org/tech/tech.html 

I read on the shoptalk forum that someones brother lost 2 of his fingers from the spring plate comming down uncontrolled...
One of the better 'How-To's for adjusting the rear suspension in a controlled/safe manner is here http://www.meyersmanx.com/garage/garage_suspend.htm 
It's refering to raising the rear, but just move the spring plates in the other direction to lower.

I was talking to my mechanic this weekend he said that because my beetle is already lowered in the rear, the spring plates are not loaded as much as a stock beetle (so there is less chance of injury).

In any case I saw my beetle for the first time since it has had CB performance dropped spindles installed in the front. It looks sweet. I was concerned that by taking some height out of the front I would need to take some height out of the rear to make it look right... hence this post.

Thanks for all the info... I should get the beetle back in a couple of weeks so I may post some pics of the new ride height then.