do I need to put thred tape on the brake pipes the screw back into the new unit...where I'm pointing ??

no the thread is tapered. Mitcll

definitely not mate thats a big no no with hydraulic systems. trust me it will seal as its a double bend flange on the end of the ridged pipe

No thread tape

Mitch the threads not tapered it uses a nipple on the end to seat and seal the fitting.

Make sure you tighten the nut with a proper brake spanner wihen fitting Its a single hex 11mm spanner with a cut out on one side that allows you to slip over the brake hose

bleed the master cylinder in the vise on the bench first this will save time and effort later. U can block the ports with yr finger and ad a little brake fluid down each inlet

kool thanks guys.
only got an open ender so that will have to do, Dave, are the inlets the plastic tubes or the threded holes?
thanks again guys
Rob

The inlets are the plastic hoses

It may be better to fit the cylinder into position and hook up the fluid supply hoses. and brake switchs. Bolt it in

Leave the 3 steel lines off

fill the fluid container with brake fluid adjuss the pedal free play as well then get someone to use the brake SOFTLY while you use 3 fingers to block the outlets allow air and fluid to pass out or bleed the air out.

depress the pedal several times slowly till u know you have got all air out and good fluid flow.

DONT LET THE PEDAL BACK UP YET

While they hold the pedal down fit the steel lines and tighten them with out releasing the brake pedal

it will take several minutes so make sure there comfortable

WITH AN OPEN ENDER spanner it will round the brake fittings as there soft they have to be tight to seal other wise air will SUCK in

Go buy one there only a few bucks.

this sounds eazy, thanks Dave and I'll go buy a 11mm 1st thing before I start...:beerthis one for you
Thanks

Yep the best tool i ever bought

OH and while your at the tool shop you should also purchase a 7mm single hex ring spanner as well for the bleed nipples as they also tend to round with a 12 point or mulit hex. You can put a slight bend in it as well this allows better acces when bleeding the rear wheel cylinders.

These 2 spanners are yours for ever when you play with VWs.

The 7mm single hex is a little more harder to find, so you may have to go to several shops for it.

"leave the three lines off"...I take it that you mean the two hard lines and the brake light switch,makes three?
Rob
PS: this is on a 71 sBug,two rubber lines, two steel lines and a brake light switch...and one Red-Back :duh

Make sure You keep Your finger off the redback....

Its easier if You have two stop lamp switches as You can have them loose until the fluid comes out...
I didn't bleed mine on the bench and it took ages to do...
My Son just took the two stop lamp switches out and He had none of the problems I had....
Be extra careful when the blake pedal is pushed down as the brake fluid may squirt and get in Your eyes...
the other thing... as soon as You have screwed the brake lines in.. wash off all the spilt brake fluid as it takes paint off..

You can make a brake spanner with an 11mm spanner and an angle grinder... You should also buy a small set of Vice grips... just the small one -- as if the brake line NUT becomes rounded [very easy] You can still do it up.. also very handy for the brake bleed screws.... if I were You I would replace all the brake bleed screws...[I did] only about $2 each...
Using old ones only works against You... and it seems You need all the help You can with brakes.... They can drive a man to drink.... [so thats what happened to Dave]
Best of Luck with Your brakes... You will need it...
If all else fails... attach one of those small "pump up your tyres" compressor to the brake reservoir... a pop up top will screw onto it... and pressure bleed it.... Works wonders...
cheers

Lee


[Edited on 23-12-2004 by 68AutoBug]

I mean the 2 metal lines .... forgot this for S bug and the line splits later on down the chassis.

Fit the feed hoses and brakes switches so u only have the 2 ports left.

Lee "make a brake spanner with an 11mm spanner and an angle grinder... You should also buy a small set of Vice grips... "

Thats why you go n buy the proper single hex 11 and 7 mm spanners as a multi hex will round them

all sorted, pulls abit to the right at the moment but will bleed them when the sun goes down:bounce...its abit hot now.
thanks again Dave,shez a bute now.

Another thing when doing the master cylinder is to also change the flexable hoses at the same time. They deteriorate from the inside out and block the fluid flow.

I usually do them when doing the master cylinder, save headaches later on and you know you will be right for another 10 years or more.

Besides you get to use yr brand new 11mm Brake spanner hahahaha

I was thinking while I was under there 'that it wouldn't be hard to do the rubber lines as well'. will chase some up and do this job before I rebleed them.

.......shit Lee, I forgot to paint it before I put the new one in...sorry

Ok on the Not so colorful

Its best to do the hoses now, and don't forget the two rear hoses either....

then You only have to do the brakes ONCE.....

otherwise... it can be a Big Pain every time You renew something...

Lee

now my clutch pedal is playing up, not coming all the way out which makes the clutch slip abit....any connection?

oh yeah and hows this, the master cylinder from the local cost me 190 but the one for my Splitty from "Schofields" cost me 50....:puke

make sure ure helper is not so cute as mine ... she pumped the clutch pedal for about 10 mins.. lol

did say the pressure was building up (leg fatigue) lola. (lol again !)