Hey gang...

Finally getting around to the long awaited Turbo engine for my car...some of you know, this has been a long time coming...
I have one major hurdle to navigate and i need to get it nailed down...

So whats the excepted 'best option' in heads for a turbo/intercooled 1915 engine?

I will be aiming fairly high with this, looking for around 200-250hp mark.
Going with the ENGLE TCS30 cam, twin dells at the mo, soon to upgrade to EFI. All the usual hipo bits to keep it together, but what will get me in that ball park and leave some room for improvement?

If I go SE's then I'll be needing good valves and some porting to get the most out
of'em, like most heads, but how do they stake up compared to say the CB Oval Port 044 CNC's? Cost wise the CNC's are cheaper, but could they hack the boost? and would the SE's be comparable?

So many ways to look at this...Bascially, I want a strong performer...not a shopping trolley...I have a Sqaureback and a bus for that!

MAXPOWER Drag ship! Looking for low 12's maybe into the 11's...But you know that I will want more...We always do!

Lets get this ball rolling....What does everyone have to say?...I'm open to suggestions...

use a SE and put in a larger exhaust vavle,with a turbo like that

What about those rotary valve heads? They'd scream if you could get a retrofit. I've heard $US 15k for a custom fit job.

http://www.coatesengine.com/ 

Andrew

Yeah Jak I was leaning that way...Looking to go with 44x38 valves in the SE's.... But is always good to compare veiws....Still more to be analysed before I commit on the heads....but the SE's are looking the best deal....The 044 Magnums would be a much simpler set-up for me as my manifolds off my cureent engine would bolt up with possibly minor match porting...With SE's its a totally different story...And according to the CB website the Magnums out flow the standard SE's. But there is no comparison to CNC SE's!!

What the hell are you on Andrew?....I remember reading about this concept years ago...Seems like not a lot has happend since then....Rotary Valves are just plain expensive...Maybe when every OEM sticks them in as standard can us mere mortals look at them....

Thanks for the tought though....

Dude,
first rule of making power is to build the engine to suit the heads.

200-250 hp is easily obtained with a set of 40x 35.5

44x38 for a 1915 is way too big and only going to reduce your low end torque.

What heads do you have now,they might do the job.....

What are the specs of your cam?

Lift @ 50
Duration @ 50

What ratio rockers are you using?

I would go for the Tcs-10 and the 044 MAGNUM's.

That on 14 psi will make 250hp.

There is no problem in head strength. It's got more to do with the tune up.
Lean will destroy heads not boost or power.

It would be nice to drive and not much will challenge it on the street.

Cheers Boostn...Nice to get some solid input....Think you have me sold...A few other VW turbo techs have stated the same opinions....

Definatly cb044 round ports. The thing with building a reliable turbo engine is starting with the heads and working backwards from there. The round ports offer a 60-62 cc combustion chamber that allows you to run a relitavely close deck height. This makes you engine a little more resistant to detonation (and damage it can cause), so you'll be less prone to splitting a cylinder when you crank the boost up. You can run a 7.2-7.4:1 compression so you'll have room for 25lb boost without any issues.

About the cam, selection here is critical, as a turbo engine doesn't need to rev to make big torque and hp. Running a hotter cam means your power band is in the higher rpm range, which means your engine is constantly under more stress than it needs to be. Consider the stress increase on a 1916 reving to 8000 RPM, and then add a turbo and double the HP and torque and imagine the stress increase. I'd go no hotter than a TCS-20, but the TCS10 will allow better low end torque.

As for the rest of the engine... welded counterweighted crank, wedgemated flywheel (lightening is optional), H beam rods, 4 puck clutch and 1700lb pressure plate and thats about it.

The usual other improvements such as straight cut cam gears, spirol lock gudgen pin clips or teflon buttons, 1.25:1 ratio rockers, and some decent pushrods will improve reliability and performance also.

That combination is easily capable of 12's, and if you add some 1.25:1 rockers and 15lb you can break into 11's. Jerry Speen's 1957 beetle ran 11.93 @ 110.6 at only 8lb boost.

Have you made a turbo choice yet? The GT28-350's are going on ebay for $1000 at the moment, and they'd do 25lb boost easily makign 250-300hp in the right 1916 combination.

Cheers for that Ian....I have the Oval ports on the way and the TCS-10...As for the rest...I have CW crank that is just 8 doweled and a 12lbs FW, from another engine I had, I have SCAT H-Beams on their way with the heads, I hadn't thought about ratio rockers, but after chatting to a few ppl, I may follow this path. I have CroMo pushrods, SCAT steel straightcuts and 2 KEP's to choose from... One 1700 and one 2100. As for the turbo...I have T3 here that i picked up for a good price...not the best option, but still a good financial compromise....It is a low budget car after all....I hope to get this engine up and running for a little under 4500bux....Sofar Im well on target....Nothing more needed to purchase except for the ECU...I almost have everthing else. And if I sell off my Dell's I could possibly do it for less....

I have 044's on my NA 1776 that I built over 13 years ago...And it's still going strong after nearly 200,000ks, 3 trips across Oz, numerous drag races (14.8 best), classic rallys, hillclimbs and sprints.....It has proven to be a robust little unit....but I have always want that little bit more...This car was destine for a Subi upgrade as per the last 2 cars we have built, but I've had an 'old school' change of heart with this one....

Humpty, you engine sounds very familiar to mine except im running street eliminators.
Have a look in members rides after the long weekend to see.
Turbo54