Whats your opinion i know their are other threads but still.

Should you, or should you not try and use better spelling?




more info needed re: engine? Do you have $6000?


what do you have now? what is your budget and/or other options.

Oh my god, seriously Colonel Mustard, don't be such a rude arrogant person! How many times do you need to be told to think before you type, your opinion isnt required for everything. Since when do you have the right to give people lessons on spelling, not everyone is perfect. Great of you to pick on a 14 year old!

Sorry dekkerboy, once you start talking motors buddy, you start talking money. Well cars full stop mean money, but performance means money. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 1600 which you can then build on. I don't know what your money situation is like, or if you're getting help, but start small and work your way up. One thing i've learnt is that you don't have to have everything at once (it's nice that's for sure), but work your way up.

There are plenty of threads on here which will help you with info and give you a fair idea on the expense and labour required.

4k craig, well why dont u explain to dekkerboy how u did it so he doesnt have to spend 6g's..........

14 year old's can't drive. I think that says enough. I am not a rude person, Thanks Ash, but clearly I am, as you seem to always be correct.


Craig, Are you being serious?

yes craig is serious, i was able to source all the parts for 1916 long block and twin 36idf's for under 2K with careful spending, granted most parts were 2nd hand but were reconditioned by a professional and the bottom end was completly balanced

Exactly, 2 more years to gather information and put it into practice, and who's to say it's not financially achievable for him?

Keep it real buddy, and do some research. Plenty of helpful people here who won't bag you for asking reasonable questions.

The whole idea was to get an opinion and thankyou for your imput. I will probably keep the stock 1600 because the pistons and barrels are good and i'm fuel injecting it anyway so it will still pack a punch hopefully. I will do the cam, lifters, heads and valves anyway.

dekkerboy: From what I've heard; Fuel injection won't give that much more power. More-so smoother power
and less tuning. You may as well have the case bored for 94mm pistons and cylinders while the case is apart for the cam change.
Gunna get a much bigger power boost from a cam change with a 1915.

Ok what bore size is 1835. I would like to go a little bigger with engine size because i am building baja. But i dont really have the money for a 1915, so i might see what im going to do. I just bought another baja and manx in a ebay auction, so hopfully one engine is already modified.

Don't go 1835 unless you go with the thick wall 92s.

Dekker

have a read of this site
It will answer a lot of your questions

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm 

Thanks i will have a read.

A well built 1916 is the way I'd go..Had a couple of 1835's & A 1641 years ago, they were ok, bigger cubes is better as it allows more flexibility with heads, cam etc.

bigger is not always better

use thick wall 92's or 90.5


don't buy second hand junk

anything used always has some issues

Ok so i will probably still stick to what i got for now, i have got a motor that i think is modified so i'm having a look tomorrow thanks.

Lee im interested in how much this motor cost?

makes me laugh when people start talking big bore motors on a budget....

oh i'm on a budget so ill go 1776 or 1835 cos 1916 is too expensive....

it makes no feking difference, the cost to machine a case and heads for 1776 or 1835 is no different to 1916
and even the P&C kits are pretty much all the same price

just forget the 1835 option unless your big on dud engines
thinner walls cause that many problems that 1776 eninges will out live and out power ay 1835s

Hi Dekkerboy,

If you keeping the stock size crank (69mm), choosing the displacement is the "cheap part" of your "hot"engine.
Selecting performance heads, carbs, headers, cam ignition system, blue-printing, and top engine builder is the expensive part of building your engine.
I'm a little bias, but the "older guy" with the moustache and never ending stories, who resides on the NSW Mid-Norh Coast builds pretty good performance engines.

dekkerboy, that last sentence zayus wrote, is soo soo true... p.o.b.j.o.y......p.o.w.e.r....

dekkerdude why not build a turbo 1600 like stanleys. can be done cheapish and a great way to learn then u can go and beat the ricer boys in a humble litle dub

Dekkerboy, is your head spinning from all the contradictory answers yet ?

Stick to advice from people who have experience. Search the posts history from would be advisors you will see what I mean. There is a wealth of knowledge here, you just need to filter the BS to find it.
I had a 1916 many moons ago, and was happy with the increase in power over stock, however its performance wasnt what it could have been. If I had better advice at the time, and paid more attention to the total combination rather than just displacemet it could have been better.
The key is not in displacement, but the sum of the parts chosen. Carefully matched parts, assembled correctly will result in a long lasting engine with good power.

There are many High power 1916s on here with power figures originally believed unachievable. This is not just because of displacement, but because they carefully selected components working together. Read this on Hellbugged's Berg engine build for inspiring attention to detail !


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38560&page=1 

only problem you may run inot is the new p plate laws.