So I was searching on You Tube about beam alterations, 2 hillbillies have cut a beam and rewelded it, they have cut the middle, rotated it and welded it back.

So it lowered the front end.

Has anyone done this home job, or is it just 2 hillbillies wrecking their beetle and really altering the front of the car.

Thanks

Stuart

Another one that I came across recently was all but two of the front torsion bars cut leaving the centre bar and ends to locate them,this resulted in the front end being lowered ie sitting on the bump stop mounts (rubbers were shattered) Positively dangerous modifications.

Cutting the centre torsion leaf support out and rotating it is not really any different to fitting sway away adjusters, except it isn't adjustable. Seeing as the adjusters are only about $30-$40 each I don't know why you wouldn't use them though.

Red Hot VWs mag from 15 years ago had an article about this. I suspect that you get a better ride and handling when you use proper adjusters on both beams and not just add additional pressure to one spring.

I thought I read somewhere that whilst twisting the top beam only will adjust height, its main function is to govern hardness and bottom one height, but I could have dreamt that.

Newt

I have personally done it, and it does the job fine.

A while back on here, i inquired in regards to legalities of such a mod, and from some wisdom from COR in brissie, there is a loop hole as its not classed as a chassis or suspension mod. I don't know the details exactly.
Its the cheaper way of lowering or raising without fitting adjusters. So its obviously a 'fixed' ride height. If u were after adjustable, you simply weld in the 'adjusters' where you would cut the beam in the centre for turning.
I turned my beam centres upwards to 'raise' the front end as opposed to lowering. if you wanna lower, then of course simply go the opposite.

Its nothing a few good measurements, a hack saw, file and arc welder can't sort out.

I have a book giving me full detail, but there is a web site on the net stating the process that will save me going into detail. i will see if i can find it.

its not a hillbilly process, it is a genuine popular methodology. If you cut one tube of the beam at a time it ensures it stays straight and in dimension as the uncut tube braces the 'cut' one until the cut tube is fully welded up. Then you cut the other and the 'rewelded' tube then becomes the brace for the other. etc.

Tell me if i'm not making sense, i will go into a bit more detail if you like.

In the process i turned mine about 6 mm upwards, not any more otherwise it will get too stiff for me as the 'pre load' on the torsion leaves by raising it increases and makes for a harder ride. All in all, from memory in the book this should be like 2 to 2.5 inches in raised ride height, and should be stiffer to prevent continuous bottoming out.

Maybe perhaps you should buy a set of adjusters (fairly affordable) and have them turned forward already 'prior' to adjusting so its already an inch or so lower, then when u wanna really drop it and u know u haven't got speed bumps to content with, pop under and 'adjust' the 'adjuster' to drop it down an inch or so more. Would make it more practical then have a permanently 'dropped on its guts' ride.

heres a link on how to do

http://sandlizrd.baja.org/frntlift.htm 

NOTE: its BAJA orientated. IE: its about raising. Method for lowering is again, simply a matter turning the centres of the beams the opposite direction.

Take note, if this is a ball joint beam you may want to replace your ball joints for high travel ones. EMPI do ball joints suitable for such due to the critical angles involves between the hub carrier and arms when lowered or raised. They (unusually) appear to be decent quality as well.

Take note of wheel rub etc, & as to how many mm's you turn the centres to lower, well ur best bet is to make another thread and ask as i am not too sure.

hope that helps