[size=5]hi guys,
just seeing if anyone has or know of people that have turbo'd a stock 1600 twin port??
want to know if its worth the cash, what sort of power we looking at, if there are any other options in relation to getting more power on the
cheap...
ie motor on ebay-- might be some one on the forum??
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160928653637?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=...
ALL POINTS OF VIEW WELCOME!!
Thanks[/size]
These guys make a complete kit:
http://www.lowbugget.com/turbo_new_page_link.html
Only prob, is its draw though and thus dangerous to fit an intercooler.
You can buy the components they sell separately, and thus if yo uwant in intercooler, nab the turbo, exhaust header, oil lines but purchase your own
appropriate blow through carburettors
im in the process at the moment, just do some research on carby use, ive got 2 options at the moment a 2 inch su draw through system just like the
above and also a solex 32 dis blow through carb which i hope works well as i hope to use an intercooler on it due to the increased air temps up here
in north qld ill let you know how i go as for help see the guys on shop talk plenty of guys on there that have done just that, just run low boost
hope this helps
stevo
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I have a 1641 TP with a turbo setup. I am waiting for my engine stand to arrive before final service before fitting it into the bus. I'm hoping it
will work okay. Otherwise I will have to put it down to experience.
I an considereing turning the 1641 into a naturally asperated engine though and fitting it to my 1776 instead
I have just had the adapters for dual 32DIS carbs laser cut to be mounted on kadron manifolds. Just have to get kadron manifolds for SP heads. Dream
is 15psi daily driver reliably. A psi activated water injection kit will be fitted in conjunction with an air to air intercooler spoiler style
mounted. This will be plugged up to a mild stroker with forged bottom end.
The 30DIS are a cheap carb, bought from cgbmotorsport.
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.
I had a stock twin port with a draw though 2" SU kit from rayjay many years ago. was ok, about 85 hp
yeah i have seen the kits they do at lowbugget... sent them an email... has anyone on here used one of their kits??
and they cost over 2K... are there any 'cheaper' mods i can do to help the stock as a rock 1600 i have...??
What are the tiny little air filters for in those pictures?
The ones at top back of the engine, about a 1/4 of the size of the carby filter?
oil return tank breather. Mitchell
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I delt with Mr simms but it will not happen again, poor service and when the carbs came back they were the same, at least i worked out that a set of webers are cheaper than a set of kadron after you spend money on them to try to make them work. PS, Great photo's of the two cars, the turbo in the engine bay will help the cooling a lot.
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For us noobs that have plumbing with the turbo in the engine bay, would a dipstick or cylinder head temp guage be suitable for knowing how hot the
turbo is getting?
External oil cooler is the way to go i guess??
The fan would be pulling in all the hot air radiating from the turbo and exhaust pipe, just do not have the turbo in the engine bay, plenty of other options. thats why vw went to all the trouble of sealing the engine bay to stop the heat from the exhaust raising the intake temp. those gauges do not measure the turbo temp, you would need a pyrometer for that
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Oil coolers cool the oil. It's the head temps that are too hot making the oil too hot, fix the problem not the symptom. As stated above, the sealed engine bay must stay cool. A hot turbo in the engine bay will prematurely kill an engine in our hot climate.
So what is the way aroung that?
Cause I have only seen turbo kits within the engine bay before. Most addmitadly on beetles with a stand off engine lid, but how could it work for a
bus?
Putting a stand off in a bus would not really work, and it is not like we would get away with driving around with no engine lid at all.
Just thinking cause doing something else to cool would most likely be cheaper than re plumbing a turbo in stainless pipe.
Plenty of disign's around that have had a lot of thought put into them.
You must get cool unrestricted air to the fan intake. But it needs to be BIG, remember the fan consumes 20 cu feet of air per second at only 4000 rpm,
around 20%more for the wide fan.......
I'd be putting the turbo outside of the engine bay. There are many real street turbo systems done this way and documented online. Schimmo's kits
from the '90's were good for over 100 000km and made some decent power nfor a small blowthrough system.
Depends what you want to do with it. I had a 1641 draw through turbo in my streeter (still have them both but no together)
I could drive the 35ks to Willowbank, race it then drive it home with no overheating probs. I did have the decklid popped at the top and drove it for
a couple of years.
In saying that I don't know if I would have driven it to Sydney.
Alternatively, duct air to the fan inlet from an external cool source, but none the less still allow for engine bay ventilation to dissipate heat. Certainly result in a butchered firewall though. I could imagine you stock body style sedan boys would be pressed for room.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5Reqw5gNSs
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Ok fellas.... Lots of good advise here, and some not so good.... I have never dealt with AJ, but he has given me some good advise with my Bug.... That
car I built myself, from scratch, in the typical draw-through style.... Much the same as Ian and Rose's 'Nude Bug'....
I ran it as a daily with a draw-through DCOE Weber for over a year in West Oz heat without any issues.... But it is in a Bug with hood stand-offs....
Not possible with a Bus....
And this brings us to the next and current project.... Turbo charging my Bus.
It has sidewinder header on it currently, and I have decided to use this as a basis for the conversion to turbo.... This engine is a basically stock
TP 1641 with HD single valve springs in mildly ported stock heads.... FW is stock, cam is stock, crank is stock, everything is stock..... This will
also have Megasquirt ECU, Mexican EFI hardware, EDIS ignition and will be blow-through.... But the reason I am using the sidewinder header is on
account of the fact that the Bus is low, and a conventional under apron header like the CB deal, wont work properly.... To use a CB header you need to
run a deep sump and have the turbo oil drain run to there.... Can't run a deep sump on a slammed Bus.... Dry sump is not an option for me, hence the
sindwinder option...
So this is what I plan to do..... Move the battery to the PS of the engine bay, cut out the DS battery tray and mount the turbo there as high as I
possibly can... I will then fab the pipes required to hook everything up, and drain the oil back to the 1-2 rocker cover.... I will then box in the
turbo to seal it off from the engine bay.... I will fabricate and fit an intercooler later.