To all who have done this conversion including myself i thought it would a good oppertunity to compile some questions,answers and also pictures.

Of any problems and how you sorted them.

The first one that comes to mind is the cooling and how you set up the radiator/radiators and associated plumbing.

If your replys can be very descriptive it will give everyone a better chance of understanding how and why you did it and of course how good it works.

So as far as the radiator goes if you have installed it under the bus what sort of temps are you getting?

I have just finished my conversion and only done a few laps of the block so not really a good test and that is because i have to sort out the wiring for the thermo from the ecu.

I went along the lines of the Hellbus build and i think he was running the thermo constantly but not sure of that.

I have read in the Subaru Manual.
Thermostat starts to open 76 to 80 C
Fully open 91C

Question is if 91C is thermostat fully open would that be the optimum running temp before the thermo fan comes on, not sure of the temp that the ecu starts the thermo.

Radiator cap is stated at being 13 PSI is this what the mojority find success.

I have a single VL Commodore Alloy radiator under the 65 split with 2 thermo fans.

I am sure there are a lot of great ideas and success stories out there and we could all use some informed help.

looking forward to some good info thanks.

Ian

Great thread idea Ian , it's been a while since most of the aussie ones were done when we had CVD , but with a few getting the urge to continue the tradition of an EJ subie in the buses , it can never be a bad thing
As for your thermo fans , yes let the ECU control it , have you also fitted a VSS ( Variable speed sensor ) as the ECU will not like life without one , ie you'll tend to stall when pulling up all the time .

Hi I have a jeep cherokee rad roughly 22 inches wide by 31 inches long fully shrouded mounted just infant of the torsion with about a 15 % decline from rear to front . I had an aluminum shroud built that is fully sealed and encases the outer frame rails with an opening right under the rad to displace the hot air I hade a small gurney flap mounted just infant of the opening . I have 16 inch fan on the top of the rad blowing down that is controlled by a standalone adjustable controller mounted on the coolant crossover near the front of the motor. It has stayed under 200 d f until lately as the outside air temp is roughly 40 d C or 104 f. It cools well in the city stop and go as the fan works quite well but on the highway with more load and faster speeds the fan either can't keep up or is blocking the airflow Any other suggestions ?The bus is lowered but the scoop on the front of the shroud should scoop a ton of air Pics to follow

Pics of my set up Suggestions ?

pics

pic2

pic3

By the look of it you will be having a recirculation issue , ie the air traveling under the bus is taking the easiest path through all the gaps around the radiator , it needs to be sealed with foam tape or similar and i would suggest reversing the hole angle of the radiator , so the back end of the radiator is lower than the front ( ie front of bus ) and have the fan suck through the radiator , fans don't work very well at all trying to blow through the radaitor as most of the air just stalls and dosn't actually blow through the core .

Thx for the reply I have my burp tank or air bleed up high in the engine compartment also I figured that since the whole underbelly area is sealed with i.e. the cargo floor and sides with the scoop and the gurney flap would create a vacuum area and force the air out the opening in the bottom of the rad ( the opening is very close to the size of the rad .So as per your suggestions 1 tip down the back edge of the rad towards the back of the bus seal the sides of the rad with chloroplast Should the gurney flap be at the leading edge of the scoop nearest to the frt of the bus or at the leading edge of the opening closest to the rad. Thx for your help Al

I'm about to do a conversion to our bay. What is the best radiator to buy and do I need to buy an overflow bottle?

Hi

Buy whatever radiator you can find at the best price, also see what other people are using and how theirs is working you will need an overflow, its the best way to get rid of air bubbles.

Steve

Hi All,
Finished my conversion but the check engine light turns on with the ingnition but stays on constantly.
Shows no codes when using the 2 blacks or the 2 greens, the light just stays on all the time.

Could I have it wired wrong?

I have the wire from computer I think it's D19 and is marked engine light on the loom straight from the computer to earth side of CEL and power from ignition to the other side does that sound correct?

Very happy when it goes but boy it's testing my will,power.

Cheers Ian

are you using vehicle speed sensor?

Hey Ian,
When I did my conversion I did what you did, connected the fan wire to the positive and not the negative side, after I worked out it was wrong my check light also stayed on all the time( think I fried something)
I swapped computers and the light went out and operated as norm after that.

Well I bought a vl commodore radiator and fitted it with a sealed shroud and a 14in fan. Seems to work ok, temp runs around 74 degrees.

Is there a need to run a shroud for the radiator between the rails ? Whats the benefits/need ? Im going to be running a AU falcon rad and fans .

Hi guys I have had my ej22 in my 74 bay for about 5 years .Toyota camry radiator fitted on a slight angle .High at the back sloping down a few inches in the front .Fan between the radiator and the floor .Thermos come on when the computer tells it to .The only heating problem I have had is when the small hose coming away from the thermostat burst .New hose and back on the road .Mine is done the same way as the ones Aaron (with the VW drag car) did for both his father and brothers cars when they were converted from vw to subaru .