Hi All

I have got to the point of putting the motor and Subaru gearbox into 'Vincent'.....It may take a while but I will be starting with the IRS conversion.

I am getting this from a member of this forum by the name of Birdman. His real name is Ron Bird.

In the mean time here are some of his pics

Each time I post I will Add some new pics

The rear scoop is custom made from steel and welded onto the boot...It is to bring some fresh air into the intercooler...Well thats the theory anyway

And Some more...
The dash is leather with WRX dash cluster and the Ipad plugs into the ECU and can display loads of gauges plus custom dash's...Well worth a look if you haven't heard of it...Its called Dash Command' and costs about $15

The front and back seats are from the WRX and have been reupholstered in Black and Grey velour

The radiator is from a Kia Sportage and the sealed off bit is from the WRX bonnet Scoop

Some bigger pics

Bullet holes have now been taken off!....Went a bit mad with a sheet of stickers!

You can see a different dash on my IPad...This is from a GTR cluster......Had I have seen this program before I would have built my whole dash around that.....

Keep posting heaps of pics! Iam just putting a ej22 into a 60's beetle atm and its good to get comparison and inspiration

Hi All
Its been a while as I have been waiting for my IRS parts from Ron Bird (Birdman on this forum). However it is already to go for the IRS and gearbox to go in. Hopefully I will be taking some pictures of the Subarugears modification with bits to look for and check.

Anyway here is the modified engine bay that is all the way to the back seat. You cant tell inside the car as I have made a parcel shelf and covered it in black leather.

I have placed a bit of mild steel plate where the old firewall was and you can see the extra distance which is around 450mm. Basically it is the whole length of the frame rails extra as the metal that shows the distance is resting on the very end of the rails. Plus I can also remove the back panel and expose everything making it easy to work on if i have to.

I welded some square tubing all around the hole I cut in the body that left me with a flat surface to bolt the back panel on and also giving me a bit more strength. I cut a slice along the tubing that allowed me to slip it over the existing rippled panel and also making it completely waterproof.

This allows the standard intercooler to remain where it is on the WRX engine.

To make it look a bit better I tried a number of options but in the end flat black vinyl wrap looked the best

I have welded the sides to the existing engine bay and then covered the welds with a strip of steel (25mm) and used stainless cup head Allen bolts to secure them. It looked so much better than having welds in the engine bay. But then again after the engine is in you probably wont notice anyway! The pic is a bit dark so you cant quite see this.

I have also cut the rear valance from the body and welded some new tangs onto it so that it can unbolt with 4 bolts to make engine installation so much easier

Cheers

Mark

Hi all

A small update while I wait for my rebuilt IRS conversion to get here. However I am starting to doubt that I will get it as it has now been nearly 4 months since I paid for it in full ($950).

In the mean time I would like to thank the members of this forum. Brad from Westside mufflers, Steve Carter, Mick058, Joel, Jak, who without looking at your threads and knowledge I would have got lost!

First picture is of the wiring. What a mess this is! I was going to do it myself but after I pulled it all out and looked at it on the floor I decided 'no way' so I am shipping it to:

Andrew at AGTengineering to complete a plug in system that will run all of the bits I have used from the WRX.

So I have now concentrated on the radiator and have followed the advice gleaned from this forum. I was not going to seal the back in but I decided to go ahead as it was obvious that nobody was having any cooling problems with thiers.

So I used the boot from my WRX donor vehicle as well as the WRX bonnet scoop to make a front and back sealed area under the bonnet

I have now concentrated on the radiator and have followed the advice gleaned from this forum. I was not going to seal the back in but I decided to go ahead as it was obvious that nobody was having any cooling problems with theirs. So I used the boot from my WRX donor vehicle as well as the WRX bonnet scoop to make a front and back sealed area under the bonnet

This is how it looks at the front with the holes cut in the grille. Needles to say I cut the holes in the bonnet before i completely understood the radiator theory as discussed on this forum! However I like the look of it now and intend to keep it

I thought I would give you a rundown on costs and what is required when you are doing this conversion as it all can mount up pretty quick with things you may not have considered when you first started! The learning curve is huge!

So first thing I needed was to convert the swing axle to an IRS system. In order to do that I needed the following things:

IRS trailing arms of a late model beetle and weld in pivot boxes. I bought the IRS system of a member from this site which included new bushes and bearings etc and finished in such a way that it would be a straight weld in installation. However as it still has not arrived (Despite paying in full) I am coming to the opinion that I wont get it even though there is a huge text/email trail of promises from Birdman.

There is not other choice if you want to use the Subaru 5 speed gearbox.
$800

Then you also need new Stub axles in order to use kombi CV joints.
$250

As I would be using the Subaru gearbox I had to get new shorter axles (13 3/16) and also the 4 x Kombi CV joints.

Total cost with shipping from the US $1250.

Then As I was putting a 4 cam turbo motor into a beetle I needed to buy (will this week) a few things from Subarugears here in Australia

Reversed crown and pinion wheel

Extended Suba flanges so the engine can sit lower in the body and the result is it fits without having to cut holes in the rear deck lid.


I also need the engine and gearbox mount that is available from Subarugears.

As the Subaru transmission is to long you need to modify the nose cone. This involves cutting it with a grinder and tig welding the holes in it OR Subaru gears have a new cast replacement available for $200.


All up that bunch of gearbox parts adds up to $2850. Although you could save on the IRS if you picked one up from a wreck for around $150

So by the time you have paid for shipping and other bits and pieces you need to consider that it is going to cost you pretty close to $5000

At the end of the day the gearbox costs amount to round about the same whichever way I went. If I kept the Beetle gearbox and got it upgraded with all nice bits I would still be around that much. Or if I went Kombi gearbox the same. I even considered a performance automatic built by Kombi20 on this site but that still results in around the same price all up.

The clincher for me was that the Subaru was a 5 speed and as it was the factory one from the WRX it should have no problems. Plus it made sense to me to have the motor and gearbox as One item rather than having adaptor plates etc. Plus I could also keep the Subaru clutch and hydraulic slave cylinder. So there will be no problems with slipping etc

I should be getting all those parts I have ordered within the next couple of weeks and then I can continue on with the build.

Of course there was one other option to just leave the existing beetle box and take it really easy all the time in order to not strip the gears off! Really how much fun would that be by babying the car around all the time! Anyway after it is finished and your driving it it does not matter what you spent does it? What matters then is it not breaking down all the time and pulling gearboxes out and constantly replacing them!

Ater all I would like to take it to the strip and see what 1/4 mile times I can get and be comfortable that nothing will blow up! Hopefully a high 12 will not be out of reach.

I hope this has been some advice for someone who is considering the conversion but is not sure of what is required!

Just like I was when I started this conversion in the first place!

The way I thought was to get a VW to put out around 220hp it would cost me around $12000 and still another $5000 on the gearbox.

I spent $4000 on an unlicensed 2002 WRX so it was for me the most sensible decision considering what I wanted it to go like with cost also in mind.

The step by step process I will continue to post as I do it.

Cheers

Mark

Well I have just been notified by UPS postal service and there is $249 for GST for my axles and C/V joints shipped from the US. You have to pay it on-line very quickly OR they ship the parcel back to the sender and charge you for it! In my case it was $491!!!

The reason I mention it is that I got an email at 1230pm on the 16th of November that said I had until 5.00pm on the SAME DAY to pay the GST OR it would be shipped back to the US!!!!

Had I not checked my emails daily I could of easily missed this and I would be out another $491 PLUS the $249 that I already paid to UPS! I also had to give my credit card details over the phone!

Starts to look very expensive doesn't it?

So the total cost (with the added GST) for my 13 3/16 Axles with Kombi CV joints shipped from the US was $1500 OR it could have been nearly $2000 very very easily!!!!

So you need to be aware of this as it would have been so easy to miss this deadline!!!!

Also I think I was speaking to a person who did not seem to be located in Australia! I had to then decipher the bad accented English to understand the situation!

What was good however is that Brad from 'Subistuff' also sent me an email with the contact number of who to call to pay the GST. Which was really good and saved some time and searching for it as it was already 4.15pm when I read the email!

Hopefully my next post will be welding in the pivot boxes for the IRS and showing you the parts you need to do the conversion so you know what parts you need and what you are looking for and how much it costs.

Cheers

Mark

The standard Subaru gearbox is too long to fit in a beetle body. So you have only 2 options

1. Buy a new custom cast cone from Subarugears for $220

2. Cut 90mm of the length leaving just the shift support at that length. Tig weld 2 hoes in the cone and cut a circle that is a 90mm piece of aluminium plate and welding that in.

3. Buy a 90mm 'plug' from Subaru gears for $100 and weld that in. Leaving the 2 other holes to weld up.

I thought that as I already had the nose cone there was no harm in trying to do the modification as described on Subarugears website. I had recently bought a Tig welder and even though I am still learning to weld aluminium I thought I would give it a shot.

The 3 black lines indicate where you need to fill in holes

1. There is about a 12mm hole in the shifter support
2. There is about a 90mm hole that you need to fill in by making a circular bit of aluminium plate and cut it to size.
3. The last is half of a stainless steel plug which is an unusual shape but around 25 - 30mm in diameter.

I thought that as it is under the car and I would hopefully not see it again I did not require an awesome weld as I could just sand it down with a flap disc and then paint it.

The overall piece turned out not to bad and where it is located is more than good enough. This was my first tig welding job on aluminium and it is a lot different from welding steel and I needed a fair bit of practice before I was confident in welding it.

However if I did not have access to a Tig welder I think that it is the best to buy the Nose cone from Subarugears.

Cheers

Mark

Good on you for having a go yourself, but sometimes just buying the part is a lot easier

Also, what's this with GST. I thought if it was under $1000 you were exempt, maybe things have changed. The BASTARDS

Will be bloody great to drive when finished

Kev

Hi All

Here is the axles and C/V joints from 'Subistuff' in the US.

I still have not got my IRS from Birdman but he assures me that it will be shipped on Monday.

Cheers

Mark

Hi All
Well its a learning curve to understand a fuel injection fuel system! I had no idea of how it all worked as the closest I have come to is a Holley fuel pump providing pressure to a Holley carburettor!

So I bought a Speedmaster Aluminium tank that had a small sump in it and with the whole base covered in 50mm foam.

I used the original WRX fuel pump but I had to shorten it by 50mm so it just touched the bottom of the sump. I cut the foam around the fuel pump filter and it gave me a sump of about 90mm which now will function as the surge tank.

The bonnet closes with about 50mm clearance.

The tank is mounted on to a strip of steel that is bolted to the top of the front beam. The beam is a custom one from Airkewld and has a large flat section at the top of the shock mount which does the trick nicely.

My reversed crown and pinion are on the way from Subarugears and Todd has very kindly offered to assist with the install.

Thanks for looking

cheers

Mark

I thought the same thing about installing the crown and pinion as well. The video on the subaruGears website has the install already on the pinion shaft and hence assumes you know something about gearbox's!

I had no problem grinding the clearance for the Crown wheel and the modification and welding of the 'Nose cone' just using the video's on SubaruGears website. In order to know how much you need to grind out you place the gear on the housing bearing and see where it hits and remove the aluminium. It pays to mark it wiht a texta pen to minimise how much you take off.

I found that most of the spots get touched due to the bolts so you dont need to grind heaps off just enough to clear. I used a normal flap disc and grinder and a Dremel for some small areas.

However, in discussion with Todd, I believe a video will be taken from start to finish for the home enthusiast to follow and thus get the confidence to do it themselves.


Cheers

Mark

Nice work

Thanks Mark,
If the noises I hear in my gearbox fall silent, I think I will be confident enough to give it a try

May outsource the welding though.

Hi Carl

Last night Todd from Subaru gears generously came over in his own time and a video was taken of every step in the process of installing the crown and pinion gears. I would be more than comfortable installing the items based on the instructions and attention to detail from this video. All the tricky bits you need to watch out for are discussed and thus improving your confidence.

I would download the video to my IPad and watch it 'section by section' and only move to the next bit in the process after completing each section. This way it would be hard to make a mistake and easy to follow.

The first time it will take you around 5 - 6 hours.

It is the fear of doing it that gets you worried but once you have done it you think, 'That was not hard I could do that again'. The video should give you the level of confidence to achieve this.

Todd is going to post it on his Facebook page. Also I will be posting the link in this build.

Shortly I will be posting some pics of what you get in the kit and what tools you need to do the job (Nothing special) before starting the project.

Now I am not a mechanic and I did not know anything about gearbox's before I did this so prior knowledge is not necessary. I did not even know how they worked and the thought of such small tolerances that are required scared the shit out of me!

But I did it! All within factory tolerances!

Cheers

Mark

Hi All

You will notice that I started this build thread on the 30th of July and I still have not got my IRS kit despite paying for it then in full ($950) from forum member.

Hopefully it will still get here (but I seriously doubt it)and when it does the build can continue

Cheers

Mark

Hi All

This is what it looks like when you unpack the box from SUBARUGEARS. It has everything you need for the conversion

1. Crown and Pinion gears
2. Adjusting tool for the splines on the gearbox from the diff
3. 90mm plug to install into the nose cone (Hammer fit)
4. Diff Lubrication
5. Seal for the old dipstick
6. New oil sight window
7. CNC gearknob
8. Pinion depth tool for adjusting clearance (very easy to use)
9. In my case extended Subaru flanges to drop the engine lower in the body

Tools you need
1. Digital vernier calliper ($30 from Bunnings for measuring shims)
2. Dial gauge ($40 however Subarugears may now include this in the pack
3. Large 12 - 14 inch adjustable spanner for around a 25mm nut or large socket
4. Shims (I used the original ones and they made the factory tolerance without any issue)
5. 12 +14mm spanners or sockets
6. Gasket sealing compound
7. Loctight

So there is not a lot of things you need to do the job. However set aside a good 5 -6 hours to install it.

I believe the full video is going to be available next week and then you will have everything you need step by step. It also includes tricky bits and things to check along the way

The wiring is from Andrew at AGT Engineering in NSW and he did a great job. The loom came back (2 week turn around from WA) in 5 pieces. Four are in plastic bags that are labeled for the particular spot. I had the WRX cluster and steering column which had the key,lights.wiper etc

Then the main loom. Every wire is labeled to where it goes and also included is a wiring diagram should you need it that is colour coded.

This is now going o be easy to install and not a long trial and error headache. For me it is worth the $500 It costs.

The gearbox is now finished and ready to install and I have started the water lines while I continue and continue to wait for my IRS kit.

It is 38mm pipe which is the same size as the radiator and motor. It runs along the centre of the car and comes up in the engine bay close to the back of the firewall and in the front near where the pan finishes.

I hope that this may help you and thanks for looking. Oh the pipe cost me $150 shipped to my front door!

Cheers

Mark

Hi All

Hopefully my IRS will be here soon. However I have given up hope as it is now 6 months since I paid for it

cheers

Mark

Hi All

The DIY video on installing the Subarugears into the transmission is in the link below. Or it is on Subarugears Facebook page.

https://youtu.be/yncdDekf0A8 


It is very easy to follow as each step is clearly shown so that no mistakes will be made.

If you are considering buying the reversed gears from SubaruGears but are not sure on who or how to get it done your concerns are now over!

Check the video out now and after watching I am sure that you will say to yourself, 'Yeah I could do that'.

Cheers

Mark

Hi All

Water lines are now in as well as the 10mm Aluminium fuel lines. For the 38mm water lines I used 2 x 45dg bends and 6 x 90dg bends and Tig welded it all together. as one fixed line. It is now really tight and secure with no movement anywhere.

The fuel line comes in a 15ft length rolled into a 400mm circle. It rolls out easy and straight.....

Both lines are secured on the back of the firewall and are ready for the flexible hoses.......

Cheers

Mark

Hi All

Well I cannot continue with the build as I still have not got the IRS bits . Being as now it is the end of January I will be looking for other people who can provide me with the late model trailing arms etc.

If you have some can you contact me please.

Thanks

Mark

Hi All

I decided to give vinyl wrapping a go.......REALLY REALLY sticky stuff!

I wasted heaps of it until I understood how it works...It is a flat white and really makes the car look cleaner than paint would

Although it is no good for covering over body imperfections..If you can see or feel the crack or dent it will show...

Hopefully I can get my IRS from someone else and then I can move on with the build. and get it off jack stands where it has sat for the last Seven months.

Cheers

Mark

I have commented on your wanted post regarding the rear suspension bits. Hopefully the arse end from a 73 Superbeetle will do the trick.

Thanks Karmann

I am happy that people are watching as there are not many comments.

As far as the IRS is going no money and no parts!

I am also looking to borrow/buy an IRS jig so I can weld in the pivot boxes that I got from Brad at Subistuff.

cheers

Mark