Just fired up the EJ20 and after starting it a few times its always hard to start, take a fair bit of cranking, splutters a bit and then eventually runs. Also it doesnt idle, have to keep my foot on the accellerator and generally seems to be running rough. The engine sometimes stays on while the engine is running, sometimes it goes out.

All spark plugs look ok after running, all plugs get spark. I'm pretty sure its wired up correctly. All vacuum ports are connected, idle solenoid connected etc.

Is there something i may have missed?

sounds like a fuel system issue.
do you have all your pumps and filters in place?
are all the pumps running?
which cylinders are not running properly?
are the injectors all clean?

try these things first.

Hi Pete, yeah the pumps (HP and LP) prime fine when the ignition is first swithed on and while running. I don't i'm a particular cylinder down, it seems to run smooth at time at mid rpm. Have no idea if the injectors are clean, i'm assuming they are since the engine has only done 80,000km.

Just connected the black diagnosis connector, its flashing CODE12 at me.. From my web source this means STARTER switch.. this wouldnt be causing the engine to run rough, maybe the slow starting though. Might buy an AUS liberty manual since i don't trust the foreign manuals off the web.

Sounds to me like there is an air leak somewhere behind the air flow meter.

This can occur if a brake booster or PCV valve or other vacuum style line on the intake is not connected, or is vented to a oil breather (EFI cars don't like this). This causes problems before in order for the EFI to work it has to know exactly how much air is going into or out of the system, everything must go through the air flow meter.

So when it has air bypassing somewhere, the air flow meter thinks no air is going in at idle, so puts in pretty much no fuel (a very little). Hence it is hard to start and coughs and splutters at idle.

But if you rev it, then the air leak is relatively small compared to the air now going through the open throttle body. Therefore it runs relatively well when revving.

It could be what bajawes said,all sounds computer not tuned.Depending if aftermarket if so check tuninig specs.JVLRacing

Tried to get it going tonight, fired a couple of times, then won't fire at all. After checking everyhting it looks like its fuel related, i'm getting heaps of pressure at the top rail (inlet) from the HP pump (don't know the exact pressure, but the hose explodes off the fitting when you wiggle it with no hoseclamp). BUT, there is nothing going into the return line back to the surge tank, the hose is bone dry, while activating the pumps, if i put my finger over the return pipe from the engine, there is no pressure at all. So there must be air trapped in the fuel lines, nowhere to go.. I reckon the regulator is stuffed. And i got a booking with the engineer on thursday, two nightsa of work, i'll just have to finish off the rest of the car and leave the engine as it is for the inspection.

you did use the standard suby key and starter switch? obviously the key contains a chip that authenticates it to the ecu. If that switch is a bit iffy that could be your problem.

Nah, using the VW keyswitch, my 96 model ej20 doesnt have the protection in it..

Have you checked the connection between the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and the intake manifold? If you have a leak in that hose then the FPR won't work properly.

[Edited on 13-12-2004 by Jenny]

Sounds like you may need a VW engine!:kiss

Maybe you could get Rudi Frank to build you a 1915..hasn't he got 20 ponies more than all the other 1914's around, and he only has 4 spark plugs!

Then again it will still be 200 hp short of the ej20t.

kiss

definitely got issues if the fuel ain't returning. If which case the fuel pressure is probably way too high, making it run really rich (when it does run), and eventually flooding it.

FPR could be completely stuffed, or you simply have a blockage in the fuel line. Look for wasp's nests and foreign insect related blockages that happen in a slow moving project.

If you have compressed air available try blowing that through the fuel lines at various points.

mm if your LP pump is stuffed how does yout HP pump get fuel to push out when you wiggle the HP hoes on the inlet side ?

I would just check your Fuel line into a can and run the HP straight from it. If you have fuel going into your rail and nothing is coming out then you have issues, fuel should flow through freely when you turn your key on for a few seconds then stop. You should hear it running back into your tank.

Now with your code 12 check the wire you have going from your ECU to your starter circuit / switch. If it isn't connected then your ECU will not actually know it is starting and will not increase the the fuel flow to assist with starting.

As for a VW engine ..... it will be worth the upgrade .....

hey Rat, have you sorted it yet?

Yeah, it ended up being the LP fuel pump, which was one of the first things i checked, double checked, and no flow. All fixed now, went to start and it purs very nicely. Takes a couple of seconds for it to start firing though, i'm guessing this would be my START signal problem which i'll sort out on the weekend if i have time.
Didnt end up taking it to the engineer, but will take it this wednesday instead.
Thanks guys for the responses.

Good news today, got it inspected at the engineer and got the big thumbs up.. Still having trouble starting it though, takes a fair bit of cranking to get it to fire, but once fired up it runs smoothly. I checked the START signal to the ECU and it goes to 10-11v while cranking (0 all other times) so i dont see what the problem is, unless i have the wrong wire.. its the thick (goes thin into the ECU) BLUE/RED trace wire which on my wiring diagrams goes to the START contact on the ignition switch.

mmm, wiring troubles, good luck dude.

BTW are you coming down to sydney soon, I love to have a perv at it, does it go hard?

Congrats on the inspection approval :thumb