Here is what i did to my pan to get ground clearance and straight tubes in order to keep the pressure in the cooling system low.
[Edited on 15-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
I cut out two little pieces!!!
[Edited on 4-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
[Edited on 4-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
[Just to get it flat!
Paintet pan with new straight 2 mm steel pieces.
Here the radiator.
[Edited on 5-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
The front end.
The radiator cover. It would be possible to get the battery to the front of the car.
keen to see some more pics of your radiator
Here a pic of the front end of the tubes
While cleaning the engine i had the idea to reverse the tube on the engine, to get to the right direction,
This is what it looks like now. Unfortunately this pic is a bit blurred, but it is the only one i have.
And the completed engine.
other side
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And the engine running for the first time.
Sorry to take the wind out of your sails, but the reverse coolant manifold thing has been done before.
That said, well done....It certainly cleans up the rear of the conversion and makes for a simpler coolant path.
I really should do this to my Bug....I will, right after the EG33 conversion in my bus is finished. Just the fuel system and charging systems to
go!
I was thinking about running the coolant lines through the heater channels on my Bug...Has anyone looked at that?
Hi humpty,
I know now that I was not the first one to reverse the water manifold. I Did it a year ago, when I still had no PC and no access to the world wide
web. At that time I only knew one suby conversion. It is just that I thougt I had a good idea. With little effort you gain a lot. I would not
recommend you to put the coolant lines through the heater channels. You will get moisture in your heater channels due to condensation. If you run
tubing under the pan you are kind of enlarging the radiator.
[Edited on 13-3-2005 by subaruboxer]
My brother did the EJ20T thing to his Notch over 6 years ago and he ran the lines straight up the middle. No clearnance issues on his car as the pipe
fitted into the channel recess next to the floorpan halfs. As a result more corners in his system. He has been running the standard water pump with
this set-up and also running a front mounted intercooler radiator up front also...In 6 years of West Australian heat (40+C in summer) the car has
never over heated. He is running an old style copper radiator up front with a small air intake that would be no more than 300x120mm sitting just below
the bumper.
As the coolant lines are hot, I would have thought that running the lines through the heater channels would keep them dry. But as you say, there woud
be an added cooling benefit to running the lines in the airstream. I do know a guy who ran his lines up the tunnel, but I think his car get a bit hot
in the cab!!! Not good!!! :duh
nice work!:thumb does it worry you having the battery right next to the fuel tank?
Great job!!!. Do keep us posted. What did you use for ECU and wiring, stock or aftermarket ?.
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Cool thanks for the photos. A few questions / comments ??:
- ensure the heater lines are not blocked off as they need water running through them in order to allow the thermostate to work. If you block them
your engine will over heat. I can see you have retained them on your engine which is a good thing. Unsure what you are going to do with them now
though so just thought I would mention that it need continous flow a lot of car heaters do not provide this as the stop the flow when they are
clossed.
- If you are chopping and spining the water manifold then it is a good idea to add a blead nipple to it so you can get the air out of the lines easy.
The EJ's can be a real PITA to bleed up and any air can mean over heating.
- Intake manifold .. how did you go with the rear fire wall ? Have just put an EJ into a beetle body and got it to clear, did you cut your rear wall ?
- What is the overflow bottle from ? It looks real neat and I would be keen to get hold of one.
- Will be interested to see how you cooling goes, it looks like a good setup and doesn't stand out, nice and suttle.
Congrats on the install it looks very neat :beer
Nice work,
Is it at your place or a workshop....what is the radiator out of?
Mine is an alfa 33 ..is small also and fits just like yours, although I have 2 10 inch fans behind.
The reversal of the cooling pipe makes the rear look that bit neater.
Keep the pics coming..
matt
Hi Brad,
the heater lines are not blocked off. To get the car street legal a heater is to be installed overhere. It is under the rear seat where the battery
used to be. The battery is moved to the drivers side under the rear seat.The overflow bottle is of a VW rabbit 4 (Golf 4 overhere).
Yes I had to cut the firewall to make room for the intake manifold. It got to be welded in to get it street legal.
Getting the air out of the cooling system is no sweat. I just let it run warm let it cool down completly, and fill it up then.
That is about it. It is important to leave the cap of the overflow bottle on while cooling down. It got to be a closed system or all the water will
spill out.
Hi Matt,
the radiator is of a VW rabbit 1 GTI, it fits because I made the spare wheel well wider at the bottom. I started with a GTI-engine and saw a subaru
conversion at a meet and got aware that I was on the wrong track.
More pics to come of the heater and some details.
And yes it is my place no workshop, I do it all by myself.
[Edited on 16-5-2005 by subaruboxer]
Not the cooling system, but as you asked for it here the box
that i welded in and my wiring and ECU.
will be interesting to see how well your engine stays cool with very little air inlet to the radiator. i say that because i tried mine like that 1st and found that i had to put holes in the bonnet to keep the temp down. please let me know how you get on with this
vwrallycar,
here two pics of front. One from the side, here you see how I changed the spare wheel well. And one from above.
There is more air coming in, not just trough those 69 12 mm holes. I painted it all black to hide it.
Nice work, keep those pictures comming!