ok guys. how do i get around this. my ea81 is now purring supurbly in my 76 bay kombi, but it had a choke cable in the donor car (dont know about the engines original car, as it was a low ks import transplant into the car that i bought it in), and is currently not overly happy to idle (wont idle). as it is purring beautifully right through the rev range i am assuming that the idling issue is to do with my lack of choke. are there any low cost ways i can deal with this?

Have you set the idle screw and idle mixture screw? I'm assuming you're using a standard Hitachi carb? Do you know what year the engine is?

carb is the one that came on the engine, i believe Hitachi. havent touched adjustments, presumed they were fine as they were adjusted right when in previous car. how can i find out engine year? believe it is an '84/5 but not certain as i have a feeling it was a diffreent year from the car.

Find any numbers and surf google mate, try subaru forums too, shop talk etc. Take a piccy of it and the screws. It should have idle speed and mixture. Will prob only be adjustment dude.


kkk

Hehehe... I see you've found the Ausubaru forum...

Subaru changed the carbies occasionally, the EA81 engine was in production for a loooong time, some of the later ones on the early 90s Brumbys had all sorts of funny stuff to look after the polution gear. Does it have the two adjustment screws?

You should invest in a Gregory's manual for it, number 501 will have all the info you need to get it sorted, you can gettem on Ebay pretty cheaply.

You should also check the timing, but I've had EA81s run with full advance and retard so that might not be the problem (although it could be contributing!).

yes, have been on ausubaru for a while (just dont often visit). i do have a manual, but not a good one, and yes, the carb does have 2 screws

Well you should know me then!

Ok, here's what you should try:

The idle speed screw is on the DRIVER'S SIDE of the carb, while the mixture screw is right at the bottom underneath the body of the carb in the centre.

Start the engine and run till it reaches normal operating temperature.

Adjust Idle screw to give required idle rpm.

Turn mixture screw clockwise until the engine starts to miss and carry on, then back off till the motor runs smoothly.

Re-adjust idle screw.

You should probably get a garage to set these parameters with an exhaust gas analyser, but this will get you in the ballpark.

Maybe clean the carb thoroughly before hand too, you could have a blocked idle jet.

its really worth getting the engine dyno'd to set carb/mixtures/timing etc. Then it is ALL correct. Be the best $$$ you ever spent. Ive done all sorts of stationary and rolling tuning and reckon the rolling road, an exhaust gas snifter, a good operator and a box of parts is better than any hotup parts.

kkk

Without changing jets, all you can do is set the idle mix as close to 15:1 as possible.

If you're going to get it dynoed, whack on a 32/36 Weber first.

ok, think i've found the issue. ther is a solenoid on the back of the carb. once i have pulled the choke and started the engine, if i run power directly to the solenoid the engine will idle without a hassle. cant tell from the wiring diagram whether permanent power is the correct thing to do though. anyone know how this solenoid is usually powered? as for adjustments, my mechanic tuned it all up when it was in the previous vehicle, just before the transplant, so should still be OK.

Energized when ON . . . but I think you could probably get away with it on an ACC setting for ease, like the cigarette lighter or something, so long as it's not energized at all times I can't see a problem.

That steve_rising_sun guy knows his stuff eh?

ok, so while the car is running the solenoid should be permanently energised? sweet. that'l be easy to hook up. whoohoo, now i just gotta work out how to rout the choke cable for startup. gettin ever closer to hitting the road