I had my bug with EJ 22 on the dyno, but was a bit disapointed at first. Because we faced a problem here.

Here you can see what is wrong! The clutch is slipping!
Yes, the clutch is to weak for the engine. The clutch was able to get only around 60 KW to the wheels. We tried four times with different adjustments of the clutch. Then I rode back home and pulled the engine out. And it was clearly visible on the flywheel that the clutch was the weak link.
It is a vanagon clutch, 215 mm, and now I am getting a new flywheel and a 228 mm clutch. Next time it will be better, but it might take a few weeks before I can do it again.

I think the 215mm clutch should've handled more power than that. Perhaps the pressure plate didn't have the spring force it should have had.

we have EJ22 running through 215mm clutches that seem to work fine. What clutch did you use ?

What Brand of Clutch plate did you use?

The kombi clutch should have definetely handled the power. Mine is only a touch when going really hard, and Jaks took a coupe of weeks and his has 150kw at the wheels.

Pressure plate for sure...try a diferent brand.

Good luck......

Matt

Hi

The 228 takes a bit of work to fit in a Type 1 trans and they are not that good, I slipped one with a NA wasserboxer. I had a $600 215 built by Race Clutch in Qld that worked well. Im going to use a IV Kennedy in my next one, cheap and easy to get.

Steve

I've got a dead standard 215mm sachs german clutch behind my ej25 and it's only ever slipped when the clutch cable was too tight. Apart from that it seems to take anything I throw at it. And thats with 31inch tyres.

The clutch is a german sachs, brand new and a complete kit.
New pressureplate and everything. It is good to hear, that
you all think it should work. That is what I was told here, too.
It has to be the flywheel. Has anyone the measurements of the flywheel for a 215 mm clutch on hand. I would like to compare it to mine.

[Edited on 1-6-2005 by subaruboxer]

maybe your flywheel has been machined too many times, and is too deep. Maybe a workshop manual will give some tolerances.

You will probably need the clutch plate bead blasted, or at least sand the glazing off of it before reusing it on another flywheel (depending on how glazed it got spinning on the dyno).

what flywheel are you using ? We use custom ones when we do the conversion

Hi,

I had a dual diaphram 215mm clutch built for my conversion and also lightened the Sherman supplied flywheel at the same. It turned out that the flywheel was manufactured with too much depth ( as in approx 1.5mm deeper than standard ) so the flywheel face had to be machined to compensate. May be worth measuring a stock 215mm flywheel to compare.

Now that the engine is out again, I will turn bad into good and cut the rear off at this occasion and make it removable.
Not as big as the one I posted, but not only the valance.
I cut it off today and keep you posted.

[Edited on 4-6-2005 by subaruboxer]

You can never cut out too much...I love cutting metal. If you go a bit crazy you can always make it a baja.

Matt

Yeah you are right, looks a bit like I want to build a baja.

This one looks pretty technical. Herbie fully reloaded!

[Edited on 9-6-2005 by subaruboxer]

any pics of how the removeable rear valance is reattached to the body afterwards. I would imagine it being screwed on through a piece of steel on both sides but haven't seen any pics of it yet.

Subaru boxer, I hope you are planning to shorten the sump. :duh

BTW, what does your engine mount setup look like. I'm thinking of redoing mine in the not too distant future.

72RSbug,
yes screwed on with steel plates. I am not finished with that,
pics will follow.

pete wood,
my sump is already shortend 40 mm.

[Edited on 9-6-2005 by subaruboxer]

Sorry mate, I just had a better look at ya pics and I can see now the sump is shortened.

BTW, Looked at all you pics but I couldn't see how the engine mounts work. Just to clarify things, are you using the anything to support the engine via the standard engine mounts on the bottom of the motor?

What's a CUP brace? Sorry if I'm being painful. Just trying to fugure out how to redo mine in the best way.

A cup brace is a triangulated set-up which runs one bar between the top shock mounts, then a bar from each top shock mount to the gearbox cradle mount on its corresponding side. Quite a few people sell kits now but there are a few stories of them breaking. I will be making my own version in steel CDS rather than the aluminium tube that is normally used.

Rich

Hi

This is a cup brace.




I planning to make mine using beetle tire rod shafts with clevis ends.

Steve

That's what I thought. So there are no factory engine moutns supporting the EJ22 in that beetle. It's held up only by the bellhousing adaptor plate. Correct?

That is correct. I f you want to see more pics of my bug, please check my posts here.

My cooling system
My header with stock cat for EJ 22
Moving the trans up

[Edited on 10-6-2005 by subaruboxer]

Ta, looks like tha back of the car is very stiff.
Does it axle hop at all?
Are you using high tensile bolts to hold the engine on?

BTW, Took my daughter out today in my buggy to meet some friends at a park. Started raining on the way home. Great fun pulling off the lights. Let the clutch out slowly at lov revs. Then mash the throttle, car accelerates hard and then both tyres (31inch high 10.5 inch wide) break loose and light up.:thumb

Hi Pete,
No axle hop and the bolts come with the adapter kit.

The cause for the slipping clutch was the pressure plate.
Something is wrong with it, it was said to be new.
I will get a new one and put it back in. Then I need a day off from work to get on the dyno again.