Have been out playing with teh WRX Type 3 all afternoon. It is overheating. Very frustrating... we have a Hyundai rad up front with the usual pipes under the car and have now removed the thermostat (I thought it might have been jammed). Both pipes get hot, proving the coolant is moving through them, but the engine blows its cool from the high-mount rad reservoir/cap in the engine bay after idling for some time or short runs around the block.

Should I have an assist pump to help the stock water pump with 20 foot lenghths of coolant pipes? Is there soem secret way of 'bleeding' a Sube engine;'s cooling system that I don't know about that is allowing air pockets? etc? Hints appreciated...

Hi

Is the high-mount rad reservoir/cap in the engine bay higher than the radiator? If not try jacking the the car up to make it higher.

Steve

go here for some advice n ask for robin as he will know what the deal is..

http://www.pms.net.au 

he does lots of conversions and specialises in go fast subie stuff..
none finer..
i've known robin for many years..

This is not a very good shot , but you need a bleed tank like h is saying

yeah man i can do that..
but cant promise u anything..
but just to let you know is a super busy man doin heaps of go fast stuff all the time..
or he is somewhere in the world doing customers engine fitouts etc or in china sortn out several rally teams he heads mech..
so maybe your is on the pile
i told you he a super busy man

yes that was ment to be a U2U , i have cleared the post as it looked like I was baging the guy. NOt the case , I know he is flat out , just like me , when your good at some thing everyone loves you ,
I am not good a wiring a subaru 2ltr quad cam n/a , just building crazy machines > yet to be seen >I need to start it first .

my god I need help ! :jesus

U2U sent back 2 u!

hows this for small 600 x 350mm custom three row , with bleed line to the back

I would say you need a bleed line , mine was bleeding back with out starting the motor .

You should have no problems cooling if the system is bled correctly. As Steve suggested, jack the car up to ensure your getting it vented at the highest point. I wonder if you need a bleed point at high end of the radiator?
They say that the jacket around #4 cylinder does trap air and car be troublsome to relieve at times.nn[ Edited on 16-7-2005 by speedster356 ]

If you water line is steel , just weld a small socket in so you can bleed the air via 1/4 mini ball valve .

Sorted! It seems it was not bled properly. In a last-ditch effort, I parked it on a steeeeep driveway and bled it again. And I noticed we had the rad pipes on wrong way around, so the thermostat housing/water pump pipe (the low one on teh Subie) was heading to the top of the rad, not the bottom... Car seems fine now, except on my test drive the Check Engien light came on... now it's running rough when it's coming on boost and won't idle. Might have to hook up the VSS before I do too much more driving! Poor old Macca the owner (GTMac on here) hasn't even driven it yet! Thanks all for the advicenn[ Edited on 16-7-2005 by VWCOOL ]

What engine codes do you have up?

just how many people think the water lines go that way hey !


so pete ideas on cod 39 ?? I have asked the world ( net )

Hi

Sounds like your in need of a good aftermarket ECU.

Steve

Ask me anyquestion about wiring on one of those aftermarket babies and not only will I answer, I'll just whip you up a new harness......I only didi it 5 times from scratch!

Matt

I will do my best to get the stock ecu to work .
1 , I think the stock ecu is just fine as they are , steve I not building a race car .
2 , my ecu ran just fine before I sent it to QLD .
3 , i now think I have the wiring diagram for my ecu , thanks to subaruboxer

as you know I keep you up to date on it as we go .
& Matt , I may take you up on that one day you know ! cheers guys seagull