after almost 2 weeks of searching what the problem is (no spark and no fuel to the cylinders) I'm putting the old type 1 engine back in today.
Won't be much fun going from 280HP to 34HP but it's either that or not driving it for several weeks until I get a replacement ECU for the EJ20TT
That has got to be painfull!!
engine is out, took only just over one hour, picking up my old type 1 this afternoon so it should be driveable again this evening.
thing with the the EJ is that some wiring got to close to the secondary turbo and had melted together. I replaced them and checked all of them but
still nothing. Opened up the ECU and no visible signs of it being broken but 99% sure it is. Also, fuel pump works (had to overwrite the realy though)
and no fuel in the cylinders.
are you going aftermarket?
Whats up with the ecu???????????
I have one I have no intention of using. Sorry for the lack of info on the vacuum lines...is this still a problem?
I am getting rid of the 2x turbos and running a single...more power, cheaper, smoother.
Let me know if I can help, I have acess to the camera now.
Matt
Go aftermarket with one turbo...have spoken to heaps of people here and there is only one or two computers that run the ej20tt and they cost heaps and
dont fix the lag between small to big. Thats why suby have gone back to 1, although they have had to stop production here as they do not meet
emisions.
Matt
Why not go for a MEGASQUIRT system, its real good even better than a DTA and for a fraction of the costs of a DTA or aftermarket ECU.
The only thing is that you have to build it up yourself
Just take a look at http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
I like the idea of a megasquirt, what scares me is all the 'lectroniks stuff'. I can change fuses and run wires but lots of 'lectroniks'
intimidate me more than a bit. At least with a well known brand you can get user support easily enough.
are you using one Subybug?
Nope im not using one, planned it for the end of next year. Still have to sort out some things about turbo's and superchargers.
The advantage of a MS is that you can get rid of all the vacuum lines that subaru is using on there (twin) turbo engines. And how about
a twin injector setup, mapped ignition timing and even control the FI from behind the steering wheel.
And all what you get is MORE POWER and thats what we are looking for is it not?
[ Edited on 25-12-2005 by subybug ]
We're finally making some progress here. Pro street IRS gearbox with the correct ratio's arrived today and I have an adres in Japan and one in
Adelaide for a stock ECU.
In Adelaide they charge 375 AU Dollar + shipping (no price frome Japan yet), does this sound reasonable? Not that I have much choice to shop around
and want to get suby lump back in the bug and go drag racing this summer
Hi Tom,
do you have wiring diagram for the EJ 20 TT, a friend of mine is doing a conversion just like you did. He bought the engine in the US like you, he
can´t find a diagram!
Can´t you get an ECU in the US, where you bought the engine?
Good luck for you! Hope you get it fixed for the summertime.
Jörg
Quote: |
@ Subaruboxer, I think your friend emailed me about it but I accidentally deleted it.
There is a big difference between ECU's, most have 4 connectors (mostly autmatics) and some have 3 (like mine).
Here is the ECU pinout for a 3-connector type ECU (found it on the UK Legacy forum)
It's all I have for my engine but proved helpfull.
[ Edited on 14-2-2006 by 72RSbug ]
My attachment doesn't seem to work.
Subaruboxer, check your U2U.
The Adelaide based company doesn't have the type of ECU I need unfortunately.
Got a price quote from Japan, they ask almost 1000 AU Dollar for a stock ECU which looks very expensive to me.
I'll be looking into those megascuirt ECU's first and maybe go single turbo (if I can get away with it without having to replace intake and outlet
manifolds) to reduce cost.
Quote: |
This might also be a option, the DTA system
http://www.dtafast.co.uk/
My harness is complete with ecu. Was taken out of half cut and placed in the 914, with everything matching up. I can have a look at removing the ecu
and its relevant wiring...labelled. How do I tell if the ecu is the one you want?? If it is compatible, you can have it cheap cheap.
Matt
If you can let me know the exact numbers that are written on the ecu I can find out if it will work boof.$
If it works, that would be fantastic, let me know please.
this is what is written on mine for example:
4g
22611 AC562
A18-000 DR5 7903
and here is a list of differnt types of ecu's, all comming from EJ20 TT engines:
T5 22611-AB391
R6 22611-AB383
8C 22611-AB392
8C 22611-AB393 - Gt BG5 1995 AT
8C 22611-AB394
7C 22611-AB384
7C 22611-AB385 - GT BG5A 1994 5MT
7C 22611-AB386
4G 22611-AC560 - BG5 manual year 8 ( 1996 i think)
4G 22611-AC561
4G 22611-AC562 - GTB BG5B 8/1996 5MT
5G 22611-AC581 - GT BG5B MY97 MT
6G 22611-AC610 - Ts-R BG5 1996 M/T
87 22611-AE370
9H 22644-AA031
9H 22644-AA032 - GTB BG5 1997 A/T
9H 22644-AA033
13 22644-AA580
[ Edited on 15-2-2006 by 72RSbug ]
[ Edited on 15-2-2006 by 72RSbug ]
finally found someone who could check my ECU and turns out nothing is wrong with the ECU itself. The problem will propably be somewhere in the wiring,
or a broken injector or either the cam sensor or the crankshaft sensor.
[ Edited on 6-4-2006 by 72RSbug ]
I think you mean crankshSHAFT sensor..
Rich