Hi,
Ive just received my adaptor plate from Kennedy to fit a 2.2 subaru motor in my 1968 bug. Before fastening the adaptor to the engine i have done a trial fit on my Beetle gearbox. The first thing i noticed was that the eurethane gearbox mounts on my cradle bulge out about 2mm so it is holding the adaptor plate off. I thought no problem ill just trim back the mounts a tad, but after further thought i realised that when the adaptor plate is bolted to the subaru motor the heads of the two bottom bolts will be exactly where my gearbox mounts will be. The head of the bolt is about 8.5mm thick so it will be held of this amount plus the 2mm. Anybody encountered this problem and if so whats best to do?
Also the top stud that goes through the starter motor, theres no way i can get a nut on. It says in the instructions to use two thin washers but that wont help, and the other top stud i cant get a nut on there either. The only way i can think of getting round this is by making a spacer for one side and on the starter motor side machining a standard 10mm nut down to an 8mm nut size hexagon but then you cant get a socket on. Is this the best way?
Please help as im getting rather frustrated.
Cheers Neggy

I ran into a few of the same problems as you are. I cut notches into the gear box mounts for the heads to fit into. For the nut on the started I just turned down a socket. Its a very thght fit but it worked. I did not have to the starter. As for the rest of the nuts I didnt have a problem.

Regards the bolt heads being where the Beetle tranny mounts are, I have seen people gouge out the tranny mounts to clearance the bolt heads.
I discussed this with John Sherman a wile back and he said the better way to do it is to counter sink those two holes on the adaptor plate and use grade 8.8 countersunk allen key type bolts instead.
Apparently the same adaptor plate is used for the beetle tranny as the bus tranny & this isn't a problem with the bus tranny.

Hi, yes that sounds like a good idea countersinking the plate. Another thought i had was to make solid alluminium or steel blocks and then clearance these for the bolt heads. Does this sound ok? Ive seen these solid mount kits that you can buy and thought that this would be a similar thing. What does anybody think?
Cheers Neggy

Hi Neggy,

i went the countersinking route, too. I don´t think, that it is a good idea to work the tranny mounts for clearence.

Jörg

Hi, Ive put countersinks in my plate but i am now struggling to get 2 counterink screws. The reason i am being told is that they are 10mm but with a fine thread of 1.25mm pitch x 45mm long. Can anybody point me in the right direction for getting some. There not heavy so i can ship them from anywhere.
Cheers Neggy

To get them as an in-hex head should not be to hard to procure. Metric fine is not too uncommon.

I can get hexhead but i need countersink head which i am struggling to get.

John Sherman of Volks Conversions on the Gold Coast should have them. Ph (07) 5537 7770

I just thought id let everybody know what i did to get round this problem incase anybody has the same. I drilled out the bottom two holes on the subaru engine and helicoiled them to a standard 10mm thread which then made it easy to get 2 csks at the standard pitch.
Cheers for all the help Neggy

Howdy from California.

There is a lack of information on this side of the equator. Can the EJ22 fit into the width of the engine bay without cutting any metal? I understand some cutting needs to be done at the bumper end of the bay to fit the cam pulley covers.

Thanks,
Chris