Hi guys,
I am fitting a 2.2 subaru engine into my '73 bay.
Do I need to modify the fuel tank for the fuel injection at all?
Cheers in advance
John
Hi, Im doing the same conversion to a beetle. I dont know what a bus tank is like but you need an 8mm return in the top of the tank and i think at
least an 8mm feed. Im just about to do mine and i was planning on drilling a hole and using some kind of fitting like a bulkhead fitting and fastening
it in by taking the sender unit out and getting my hand in there.
Hope this helps as i am a novice to.
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The tank has been dry for about 3 years now so no residue will be present.
I am aware that I need to fit the return line, I was just going to match the size pipe to the subaru return line ( not measured it yet)
I supose I am wondering if I need to fit some form of swirl pot either internal or external.
I will check WES web site.
Cheers
John
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Here is an excerpt from the Surf and Swoosh project that I'm doing.
71BayEJ20T
Changed the bottom fuel line fitting from a 1/4 to a 5/16 by cutting the old one out and silver soldering a threaded base (that had the thread turned
off in a lathe) in with the new fitting. Could change this easily for a 3/8 fitting at a latter date if I need to. Also added a fuel return and
another vent for the tank using the same fittings. Fittings cost $20 from Pirtek.
Regards
Brendan
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I took my tank to a radiator place and they brazed / soldered an 8mm diameter fuel line pipe to the bottom. I asked that they poked it in a wee way
to prevent crud sitting on the tank bottom from being sucked in. And I flared the end a little to prevent the rubber line from slipping off.
Cost very little, and they had the experience to deal with the tank, and the parts were left overs from when I ran new lines.
Cheers
Jeremy
I need to get some extra pipes welded to my tank for an EJ20. I have fitted a 7/16th supply pipe and a 3/8th return pipe to the pan, so they will be
the sizes of the pipes.
Is it OK to put the fuel return into the top of the tank where it will cause frothing and splashing of the fuel, or is it best to fit it to the
bottom where the fuel will not froth. Is it better to fit the return pipe to the top but to have the pipe feed down to the bottom of the tank? Does it
matter?
I intend to use the existing small vent pipe for the vapour system to the charcoal canister. Is that OK?
Thanks for the replays,
I think I am going to open the original fixing out to 8mm, possibly by brazing in a new fixing. I will also fbraze ina a return line to the bottom of
the tank, the fixing will be L shaped so the fuel being returned is feed back into the tank will be feed back in to volume, rather than dropiing the
fuel down or possibly pushing it up into the air to fall down.
I will also have a gravity feed swirl pot which will feed the high pressure pump.
Does this sound like an okay solution?
I am also not running the standard ecu so wI am not going to run with a charcole canister.
Do you guys have to run a canister? One of the things I have done in the past is to measure the resistance of the purge valve and fit a resister in
the electrical plug, then remove the canister. The need for the resister is to fool the ecu into thinking that the purge valve is still conected so
it won't log an error code or put the engine light on.
Cheers
John
If it is for street use, the charcoal canister and std management system are mandatory for rego. Some less-than-scrupulous engineers still 'pass' cars without them. That's great until you get a roadside defect notice...
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Why wouldnt it have a constant supply of fuel from the bottom of a baffled tank? Our tank is baffled, so there is no problem.
I've done quite a number of EFI conversions now on several different types of cars, and only put a swirl pot in one where the pump was higher than
half way level on the tank. That of course required a pre pump and a swirl pot.
If it lower than the tank it is always preprimed, that is where the height can make a difference.
Your almost on empty,your going flat out through a long sweeping turn on the red line and at maximum boost, all the fuel left in your tank runs to one side you run lean. This is when you need a swirl pot. Some kombi tanks were baffled ( fuel injected ) the early ones werent I'm not sure about beetles but if this is how you drive then you need a baffled tank or a swirl pot. Or better still never let your tank get under a quater full.
Hi
If you can find a good bay EFI tank, that would be the best way to go.
I know this question is about a bay tank, but on a Beetle tank I find its easiets to weld some return nipples into the filler neck which is removable
so its easy to make safe for welding.
The external swirl pot (if you cant get an EFI tank which has a swirl pot in it) is a god idea for a few reasons, if you park on a slope with a low
fuel level your car wont start if your drawing straight from the tank, EFI pumps hate running out of fuel when the tank is low and your cornering
hard, a sudden lean condition from lack of fuel could result in engine damage.
Factory EFI Commondores often will not start if parked on a slope with a low tank level.
Steve
The thing is here we are talking about a bay bus with a 2.2 N/A engine. Not a turboed hard cornering vehicle by any means. I agree totally that any
high performance vehicle would definitley need a swirlpot. In a bay bus with a stock EJ22, it would just not be necessary. Although you can put one on
if you wish.
Our bay bus has its fuel pickup coming out of the bottom of the tank which is better in a non swirlpot environment than a tank that has a top pickup,
which will not reach the bottom of the tank. Then if we keep a bit of fuel in the tank that would never be a problem. Ours is a baffled tank, so that
is also an advantage.
Someone will be able to give a definative answer on which tanks are not baffled and which ones are and how to identify them.
Yes you can run out of fuel and still have what is in the swirl pot, but it is likely you will empty that too, then you are in the same situation as
when you had no swirl pot.
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