hey guys i am hoping someone an help me out with my lil situation i have just completed a 6 rib kombi tranny bus converison in my baja a week ago and now i am getting some axle hop on take off ?? the old single side plate box showed no sign of this at all and i have good strong engine and tranny mounts in place ( 13b Rotay)

[ Edited on 29/10/2006 by THUDKNUCKLE ]

have you got decent shocks? also, could just be the low nature of the very low first gear....hold on just a second, have you got your bowden tube installed right? it needs a decent kink in it or you'll get clutch shudder on takeoff. if it's not long enough you could pack it out with a few washers, or alternatively, use a kombi bowden tube which is about 10mm longer. I had this problem and the kombi bowden tube fixed it. Also, if you have a tranny strap, the bowden tube needs to go around the outside, not underneath.

my bus used to get that when i did standstill burnouts but i changed the rear shocks n it sits firm now

yes the shocks are new and didnt do it with the old gearbox as for the bowden tube i am unsure of what a bowden tube is or how mine is set up ?? this may very well be the problem ??? thankyou look forward to finding out this bowden tube

regards james

The bowden tube guides the clutch cable from the rear of the pan (where it exits) to the arm on your gearbox that you attach it to.

Yogie.

may i ask why will that will effect clutch shudder ?? and why the kink in the tube ?

Read this...

http://www.vw-resource.com/bowden_tube.html

Thankyou baja wes that is awsome help as i am pretty sure my tube is straight

take care

no more shudder then?

Mmm, so if I'm replacing the cable clutch with a hydraulic one, are there any "tricks", along these lines, that I need to be aware of ?

leave a bend in the hydraulic hose to allow the gearbox to move without pulling the hose tight (and breaking it).

Thanks Wes - am going to use steel though to the end end of the frame, then braided hose to the slave cylinder anyway, but will allow a bit more slack in any case.

Cheers .. Kim

nope all shudder has gone but there is a lil bit in reverse thanks guys funny how a lil bend in a pipe can make all the differance

it's the torque of the engine twistin itself and the box and if the tube is not stiff will affect smooth clutch operation.
so for a hydraulic i would not feed a rigid tube through the bracket (exbowdentube bracky)

the twistin may kink and weaken it thus shortening its life...

my clutch including clutch plate was custom built by the fellas out at albion clutch works. it definatly isnt a cheapo clutch plate as it was the best clutch and clutch plate they had on offer ( its 5 pad brass button model with thicker then stock pads) the shudder in reverse doesnt concern me to much as it is very minimal and only occurs on first take of

Lets just say that with a BRASS BUTTON clutch plate it will NEVER be as smooth as a fibre clutch plate but that is not to say that i would change it with the power you have with the rotary it will be one of those things to get use too.

yeah it is only in reverse though taking of is smooth with no shudder of jerking or clutch catching ( took a lil bit to get used to the weight of the clutch though ) and changing gears is smooth and fine with no shudder or feel at all. i am thinking it is due to being reverse such a low gear.

[ Edited on 3/11/2006 by THUDKNUCKLE ]

yeah, a brass button clutch will get those vibrations and be rougher compared to a stocker.

That's why I stuck with a stock 228mm sachs clutch plate. It doesn't slip and is very smooth.

Thanks Garry