I've had my EJ20T powered split on the road for a few months now and all is running well, cooling, tune etc, exept for some problems I'm having with gear selection. At first the pedal was very low even though the clutch cable was tight. Cranking up the cable saw the pedal activating well but I felt the clutch may have been dragging a bit and there was no free play so I backed it off a bit. Then one morning it started playing up, a bit hard to find gear and the clutch wasn't fully disengageing the bus was moving forward even with the clutch to the floor then stop at a set of lights and cant get into gear, finally found third and nursed her home. At first I thought the cable had gone but it is fine. The gear box shifts perfectly with the motor off but I cant get any gear with it running. Ive tried it with the cable from fairly loose all the way through to stupid tight. No gears. The front gearbox mount is tearing (I will install a solid one) and the clutch arm seems to travel a long way before it contcts the throw out bearing (about 30-40mm). I'm going out to Boofs to pull the motor but I'd like to know what is wrong first so that I can have the parts to fix it there and then. I'd also like to get it changing so I can drive it out ($200 tow ) if that is at all possible. I've been thinking clutch, throw out bearing or even the front mount allowing the box to twist so the shift rod isn't aligned. I'm a bit lost on this one, any thoughts??
Hi
Sounds like a cable problem, it may be 1/2 broken, stretching or the body where the tube goes through could be moving. Do you have the correct bow on
the cable guide tube?
Steve
The cable tube was broken away in a couple of spots I secured them. the bowden tube is bent I'm not sure if there is a correct amount of bend but it is slightly S bent. I thought it was cable initially but I pulled it out and it measured only 10mm longer than new.
Stock or high pressure pressure plate?
You may have broken / bent throw-out bearing arms?
Kennedy stage two presure plate stock 200mm clutch ssp box.Would that be enough to bend them? Are there aftermarket forks available or is it best to
strengthen the original?
[ Edited on 19-4-2007 by RENNWAGEN ]
I've had similar issue with a bug and it turned out to be a broken weld on the tube in the tunnel. Sounds like this may not be the case with you
though so hear is my left feild solution: go hydraulic, I have and its not that dear to do. You could actuate the master from the existing pedal box
setup and then you would only be out for the slave, tubing and fittings.
Good luck
Ive just picked up slave and master cylinders to go hydraulic. Being a bus the pedals are a bit harder to get to work with a MC but I think I know how
to run it. Wilwood slave and master for under $200. Also need some fitting adapters for the American fittings. Wont help me with this problem I dont
think. Bent\ broken throw out arms seems to fit the symptoms. I'll just have to pull the engine and see.
[ Edited on 20-4-2007 by RENNWAGEN ]
One thing to consider...when i was designing my own adapter plate I realised how important the thickness was..obviously at extremes if you had a 3 inch thick adapter plate your clutch fork won't even touch....????:blah
Unless your flywheel stuck out 3 inches further than stock
exactly