hey guys I just finished mounting my water to air IC radiator in front of the front beam and ran heater hose all the way to the intercooler that is sitting on top of my motor, im running a Davis Craig water pump rated at 13 litre a minute, should I run the pump anywhere or should it be just before or after the cooler??

besides the problem of getting a leak in the hose and bleeding issues is there any problem doing this??

Do I need to run coolant?? I heard they run allot better with out coolant, my local radiator shop told me straight water will eat the core out really quickly, is this true???

why would it run better 'without coolant'?! what a crock...

you don't need a pump that big; Subies use far smaller than 13L/minute

i had a rs lib that i ran a 9l/min, then upgraded to 11L/min then a 35L/min. I did have a larger w2a front mount, but the 35l/min was the best for keeping intake temps to a minimum. I didn't get any probs with heat soak due to collant floeing to quickly. Taking into account the extra distance of your system to std, i think you should be ok.
Running the cooler with water is best for dissapating heat as coolant reduces the specific heat of water. Pure distilled water has the best specific heat, however you will get corrosion issues. You can buy a product called water wetter that gives the best compromise between coolant and straight water. I think nulon has a water wetter that ive heard works the best in water to air intercoolers.

thanks for the info, has anbody seen any info that sugests that the wetter water stuff is worth it, i mean if its only gona be 10% better then coolant im not worried but if its 30% or more better i will invest in some.

how much did the 30 ltr/min pump cost>?

Just keep it all as Suby made it and recommend. What service center would not put coolant in your i/c...........none I would guess. It does not have to be a coolent, it can be just a corrosion inhibitor.

I have been using the standard pump mounted 50cm from the intake i/c in the engine bay and have had no probs in over 18mths. Also the standard suby pumps from what I have heard hardly give up and when they do they are usually an easy and cheap rebuild kit.

Hi

Regarding pump placemnt, its best to do a bench run with pump in diffreent locations. As for bleeding issures, I had heaps of problems with my water 2 air IC on my old 1302, I found they best solution was to put a garden hose fitting in the line and presureise the whole system until you get it running by itself.

I ran straight water with not corrosion problems.

Steve

I had an alloy-headed Ford V8 show significant corrosion (visible on ally; water went orange) in less than three months with tap water...

I'm running the stock subi pump at the lowest point just inline with the lower secton on the front beam and have had no problems after 25000km's , also have the lines running in the cabin, and they are always cold to the touch considering the heater lines run ontop of them .
I'm using the same coolant the engine runs, both front cuts I bought had coolant in the cooler so I did the same.

Generally ethelene glycol based coolants increase the heat transfer rate and provide better cooling. Nulon have one of the best products being a concentrate approx 60% from memory. Can be bought for $35/5L. When using low strength coolants (under 25% strength) or water, electrolysis/corrosion usually occurs. Also remember that coolant strengths over 65% can cause problems as well. Manufacturers recommend the use of purified filtered water when changing coolant for a reason. They have millions of dollars in research to back this up too.

This forum gives me nightmares. Had a dream last night I added corrosive inhibitor to both i/c and radiator and they both discintergrated before my eyes................thanks guys. Yes I know most dream of sexy woman, thats what I dream about!

Hey, it wouldn't be called COOLant if it didn't help cooling!