Ok guys

I'm getting a 4.57 albins Ring and Pinion, changing my gears to:

3
2
1.3
0.82

shift speeds are:

64
95.4
147
233

4th gear 3010 rpm at 100 kph

12.256 1/4 mile ET
178.0 1/4 mile - kph
4 1/4, gear @ end
5357 1/4, rpm @ end


Quick guys i need feedback ASAP so i can purchase the gears.

only problems i can see are that in a 40kph school zone i will be in 2nd gear @ 3000rpm (3rd gear @ 1909rpm)

and 110kph will be 3311rpm

With those ratios, each gear selected will be at a lower RPM.

1st - 2nd = 4666

2nd - 3rd = 4550

3rd - 4th = 4415

Ideally, you want to grab each new gear at higher RPMs.

Have you seen Albins' web site?
http://www.albinsgear.com.au/ 

changing at 7000rpm i calculated:

1st - 2nd = 4715rpm

2nd - 3rd = 4563rpm

3rd - 4th = 4412rpm

changing at 7500rpm i calculated:

1st - 2nd = 5000rpm

2nd - 3rd = 4879rpm

3rd - 4th = 4725rpm

what i am trying to keep is good driveability around town and not loose anything at the strip. and maintain a 3000rpm highway speed.

what ratios would you guys be goin for?

Assuming 215/60/15 rear tyres

3.0 1st
1.76 2nd (shifting @ 7000 = 4106rpm)
1.09 3rd (shifting @ 7000 = 4335rpm)
0.82 4th (shifting @ 7000 = 5266rpm)

Slightly bigger spread between 1st - 2nd, and 2nd - 3rd (closer to the spread of the stock ratios).

With that R&P and 4th ratio, your gearing is close to stock L-bug 4th gearing. Is that what you want with a water-cooled, turbo motor?

Depend on what you're after, track ratios will be a compromise on the street and vice versa.

cool i like the way the revs are higher at the next gear but i think the 1/4 times will be the same? correct?

and the biggest problem is the only gears albins have in stock are:

1st/2nd sets I have on the shelf at the moment are –

2.75 X 1.93

3.00 X 2.00

2.15 X 1.76

3.33 X 2.08

3.10 X 2.08

3.55 X 2.25

2.82 X 1.86

3rd – 1.78, 1.84, 1.72, 1.65, 1.59, 1.50, 1.44, 1.40, 1.35, 1.30, 1.25, 1.19, 1.14



4th – 1.50, 1.44, 1.40, 1.35, 1.30, 1.25, 1.19, 1.14, 1.09, 0.96, 0.85

Let me run through some calcs and I can compare some of the ratios.

Send me a PM with your e-mail and I can send you the graphs.

Dangerous is very good with drag racing ratios - hopefully he will chime in.

weak diff ratio ?

its the only one they have

If they are the only gear sets, then your original combo is about as good as you will get with that diff.

I think that in most situations, the higher the diff ratio, the weaker the parts are.

I think you'll find a beetle 3.875 or 3.44 (used by Wayne Penrose I think) would be a better drag racing diff.

I am waiting for weddle to get back to me for a list of there available gears.

Having the gears rise higher in the next gear is this any real benefit?

Obviously no matter the ratios Albins gears are super strong, I've only heard one or two stories of them braking and that was under tremendous load and on a track.

if circuit yes! 3.55 1st and 4th 1.00

Here are the graphs so far.

The first one is your suggested ratios. You can see that each new gear is grabbed at a slightly lower rpm.



They are relatively evenly spaced. The dashed lines you can see are std L-Bug ratios. You can notice that you 2nd and 3rd gear ratios are much shorter than the beetle ratios. Not much chop for a water-cooled turbo bug for street driving.

Notice that with that 0.82 4th and that 4.57 R&P, that your rpms at highway speeds are nearly 3200. Could you live with that? Or are you better off getting a taller R&P?

In this graph the ratios are
3.33
2.08
1.3
0.82
3.875 R&P



1st 2nd and 3rd are taller than the beetle, but closer together. 4th is taller, about 2500 @ 100km/h, about 3000 @ 120km/h.

How this would go on the track - ??

If you put all your car info into this program, it will make the gear ratio graphs, it will show the effects of changing the ratio's on acceleration and 1/4 mile times.

http://www.offroadvw.net/exceldyno/

He's been using that Wes

yeah, I couldn't tell. I wasn't sure what the question is