Good afternoon all,

I'm new in the forum and i feel very glad to find you.
My project is a super 1303 with EJ20NA JDM SOHC suby engine with many porsche goodies and other performance parts.



The electrician have done the wiring fitment with the stock ECU,radiator is fitted at the front and working with no problems,temperature is good,but.....

always there is but....and here it is:

when the engine starts (cold) it rev's around 6500rpm with no problem(the torque is amazing!!!)but when the heat reach 70celcius it cannot pass 3000rmps!
It seems that the ECU turns the motor in safe mode but i dont know WHY???
I have built a new custom exhaust and the sensor has been added here



Please advice because I'm really desparate

Thanks in advance
Jim

Do you have a speed sensor?

Do you have the heater hoses looped or blocked?

I presume the last photo is your o2 sensor

hey mate nice ride quick question for you where did you get your sump? In relation to your issues have you tried to get the error code from the ecu? this will assist you in diagnosing the issue. If you don't have the service manual I can probably sort you out.

Stephen

Is your temperature guage the Subaru unit, or an aftermarket unit? And is it using the Subaru temp sender, or an additional sender?

If it's a seperate sender your reading, then maybe there is a problem with the suby temp sender and it thinks it's hotter than it is. In that case you'd notice it turning the fans on quite early.

Nice muffler. What type of muffler do you have or where did it come from?

I was thinking of the speed sensor as well. Can you short the diagnosis connector and rig up a lamp up to see what code its faulting on?

The sump looks to be one of the bug@5speed sumps from Germany.

I'mm just a novis when it comes to these subie ecu's but i dought it has anything to do with the speed sensor as they will drive quite happily with out these with the main symptom of no speed censor being that they will stall when stoping as the ecu cannot map quickly enough when sudenly back at idle as opposed to knowing it is going to stop via the speed sensor . Sorry for the dribble on but hey its hard to explain.
I would be more inclined to look at what Baja Wes suggested and also set up the engine light permantly as it will save you many hours of head scratching and alert you to any fault at any time which depending on what fault can save you quite a few dollars etc even if its just in time alone ie : being able to tell your mechanic or helper what it did or code etc.
By the way Jim nice car and where are you in this big old world of ours mate

i agree with Flat - nice muffler. looks to be custom made, ???

Yeah i'm only going off my experience with the speed sensor. I have the sensor driven off the front wheels using the original speedo cable. Everything was fine until I went to get it dyno tuned (on the dyno the front wheels don't turn). It apparently did one and a bit runs and then the dyno operator said the ECU light came on, and then he couldnt get any power out of it and that it was cutting out. I then had to drive it home and it wouldnt rev past 3000rpm and was severely down on power. Got home, shorted the diagnosis connector and it flashed the speed sensor signal. Reset the ECU and then it was all good again.

Quote:

Originally posted by OZ Towdster I'mm just a novis when it comes to these subie ecu's but i dought it has anything to do with the speed sensor as they will drive quite happily with out these with the main symptom of no speed censor being that they will stall when stoping as the ecu cannot map quickly enough when sudenly back at idle as opposed to knowing it is going to stop via the speed sensor . Sorry for the dribble on but hey its hard to explain Ahhh! that explains occasional cutting out at the lights I'll hook up the speed sensor one day but meantime i'm in the habit of a light foot on the pedal til its idling nice

Folks,thanks for your kind words, this gives me the motive to continue the hard work and keep patient for any unexpected issues!

What they mean by looped or blocked is this.
Looped ~ This is the way you should have it set up and is as follows , basicully you as suggested loop or join your two heater pipes at the engine together with a pipe or hose etc so as water can continually flow through the system which in tern also controls your thermastat.
Blocked ~ This of coarse is the oposite inthat you have the two heater lines from your motor blocked of seperatley which in tern will cause massive overheating problems through not being able to control the thermastat.
Hope this helps explain things for now .
We all await your findings so we can all help a fellow dubber

Sounds like a speed sensor problem, I would suggest a VDO one as you are in Europe. I try and find the right part number for you.

Have to check further but I think this is it,

Universal cut cable VDO 412.009 2.7mm sq

Inline suit Volvo,VW Seat, etc VDO 340.803 2.7mm sq

Hi

That's the one I was told to buy, it comes with all sorts of adaptors etc for different cables and threads.

Steve

Hi

The subject of VSS is being discussed on GermanLook here http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=5952  with some very useful information.

Steve

Brantz also make a VSS that screws on the back of the speedo. I got one from Don Barrow rally equipment in the UK.

Thank you quys for all your advices and posts!!

I have found a local shop called Brantz rallymeters as 71EJVan advised me but i was wondering which of them i have to use??

Universal speedcable sensor



or this
Japanesse Gearbox



Price is 50euros.

Thanks in advance,
Jim

You will need to use the 'speedo cable' one as the VW gearbox does not have a speedo output/drive to fit the 'Japanese' type

We have a similar setup to Elusive Stranger on the V6 bus, works well although our vss was custom made by V6 Conversions.

Nice thread! Oh love the sump, mine is coming in the next week or so

Update..

The electrician remembers that the wiring loom does not have an OBD slot and he tells me that he will try to find a 14pin slot in order to take signal from the diagnostic machine.
Then we will be able to see if the problem is the VSS or the O2 sensor or something else..

Does anyone have a diagram of what to expect in error codes from the ECU?

Thanks in advance,
Jim

http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/Subaru%20OBD1%20Decoder.htm 

Thanks mate!

BTW the Brantz model I have is BR04, Fits nicely on the back of the kombi speedo.

Thanks in advance for you help!

Let's see how it will goes..

Rgrds,
Jim

This weekend I have planned to change the rear inner & outer urethane bushings and also to replace the front sway bar with a new one and a camber kit++.

Finally we drop the rear and the result is awesome.
Next step is to adapt rear spacers with longer wheel studs!












I hope by the end of next week to solve the ECU problem..and then to enjoy quick rides!

stay tuned for more..