Hi all. My name is Rob and I'm new to the VW scene. Excellent forum by the way...I've learnt a little by reading but it was time to put my hand up
and make sure that I'm on the right path.
Feeling a bit bored I thought I'd start a project car - the outrageous Purvis Eureka. Picked one up from the Sunny Coast a few weeks back and have
slowly pulled her apart. The following is a list of what I think I have:
1968 chassis, king-pin front, swing axle trans, type 3 engine, disks up front and a lot of work ahead of me.
The plan for the car is to be a fun weeker that will see the track at least once a month with further upgrades in two years time. Current budget is
$15000 (might push it to 20 if I can justify it to myself) and that's meant to cover everything. I'd plan on doing everything myself except for the
painting. For the past week I've been sifting through post and just want to check some ideas with group.
Engine - either a stock EJ22 or stock EJ20T
Question - do these engines require any additional braces or mounts besides the adaptor plate to the gearbox?
Transaxle - ideally the G50, then 915, but realistically a Rancho IRS pro street, then 091 with albins and finally an IRS with albins
Questions - is it complicated to swap out the swing for an irs or 091? And the reason so many of you move the trans forward 1 to 2" is so that you
don't interfer with the body work on the Beetles?
Brakes - would VW disks all round be enough or should I move to bigger (possibly Porsche or Tarox 6) rotors and calipers? Complicated conversion?
Other simpler options?
Floor pans - does anyone had any experience with lowered floor pans?
Thanks for your time.
are you sure its linkpin? usually the front beams on the 68+ are ball joint, take a photo near there and we can confirm (where the arms from the beam
connect to the plate behind the brakes at the front.
You will need to give extra support for the aftermarket engine. it is heavier without a doubt. you can get something called a kafer cup bar kit (4 or
6 point), its a bar brace system that connects the the forks of your chassis, up to the shock towers and back to the chassis. This will keep the
engineer/compliance plate officer happy. A fella sells these kits on here, search it up, or just put a want to buy thread.
Those kits might need some variation if you have to customise mounts for a largely different box. maybe...
IRS means you gotta weld up pivot boxes for your trailing arms. the complication in this is precision. you can make or buy a jig! Then from what i'm
aware, its parts swapping with ordinary irs bug components.
larger brake conversions are available off the shelf or by order at any good vw parts store. To keep the engineer happy, you might wanna consider more
stopping power, even it its a matter of type 3 rear brakes and slotted fronts on your dub disk front end. Some people just run the bug disk and drum
stock stuff and rekon they don't have a worry though about stopping power. its a light body mind you anyways.
Are you looking at lowering? or its already been lowered? There are a few ways to go about it. the great thing with with the dub floor pan the
suspension ride height of the rear is completely adjustable. Lowering the front can be done with dropped spindles, cutting and turning (or fit with
ride height adjusters) to the front beam suspension to change the preset tension of the torsion leaves inside. In the centre of the beam on both tubes
you will see a nut in the middle of each tube, this is the component (an inch either side) that you have to cut and turn for lowering.
Googling has some great tutorials for such.
check out the one in Issue 23 of vwma
http://www.vwma.net.au/
bajachris88 - thanks for the heads up. great stuff. will definately looking into the kafer cup bar kit. worst comes to worst i might use some lego
to hold the engine in place. sent out an email to rancho and am waiting for a reply. ill attach some photo the next chance i get (and when i figure
it out). so much research and so much reading to do...oh no!!!
rose - that's the inspiration. probably going to go with an awesome gun metal grey version.
Could someone please confirm what kind of chassis I have - swing or IRS. Apparently in '68 they were running both...Oh the confusion!!!
Could someone also please confirm what kind of front suspension set I have (ball joint/king pin/link pin) and why is it that my strut/shock tower
thingy is a fair bit shorter than the one my dad's Ruska kit car (also uses Beetle chassis)?
Cheers,
Rob
Thanks to everyone for your help,
Rob
It is IRS but not sure bout the king pin etc. But its definatly IRS
What is the give away?
looks like type 3 or even kombi front beam........wierd 
yeah IRS rear
The give away is when you look at it from above you see the piece at rougly 45 dgrees to the frame horns this makes the car IRS
thanks 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
Hi robertocarlos, I was going to say come join us at the Eureka forums, but I see you're already there!
http://eurekacarclub.com.au/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=7f69d7c0797f726fcbc4dfb...
save your money and buy my type 3 wagon with ej20t already engineered just needs pink slip for rego. $6500. with all rust fixed.
Hi,
Had some success with dad yesterday - engine start. After a long time mucking around with the electrics to get everything right, the engine started
first time. You can't hear the engine that well on the video, but it sounds great in person.
http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=AU#/watch?xl=xl_blazer&...
Also, has anyone had any luck tricking the auto computer so that code 38 doesn't come up any more?