Hey Guys,

Got everything all finished with the new motor. Everything attatched ready to go, the only major difference is the new manifold and bigger injectors. turbo is also bigger however not a concern for starting. With the bigger injectors, i figured i would give it an air leak as it will be pulsing more fuel< so just pulled the bov vacuum line.
Cranking....nothing...f**k. Checklist.
1. Check digi dash is reading all sensors properly
2. fuel-new reg has a gauge on it..plenty
2. power to coils and injectors....test light..yes.
4.plugs not fouled.
5. check ignition and injector pulse.. no injector pulse at all, ignitor fires once then dies with cranking.
5.cam and crank signal a miss..yes
6. call the dad i met at a trivia night who used to do the conversions for BD4's... he tells me to check the crank and cam gears to see if they are different...good guy to know!!!!

Pull the alt pully and the timing belt cover and immediately you can see the crakn gear has loads of teeth as oppose to the old engine had only a few with large gaps between them.
The 2002 engine is sequential fire not duel spark. my microtech is an lt8 not an lt8s and therefor will not run the motor. We pulled the timing belt and swapped the centre pully...all looked good until we pulled the top right cam gear that triggers cam sensor.... different shaft size and trigger conatct points. At 2am in the shed at dural freezing cold, thinking you had the problem fixed, it is a sobering experience when you realise you will be putting it all back together as it was and tomorrow you have to look at spending $1200+ on a new ecu.

Anyway, for those who have an pre 2001 engine, regardless of stock ecu or aftermerket.... something to consider when lookinig to purchase a more recent engine. The 2002 is the last of the non variable timing engines, so after that there are even more issues.

sequential microtech for sale enyone????

Matt

little pic of the engine...not the clearest.

A few changes are the aftermarket fuel rails.
Turned the turbo and pulled it back and out.
Air intake to the turbo now runs infront of the intake manifold and the K&N filter is on the driver side just forward and to the right of the starter motor.
The accelerator cable that usually does a U turn in the engine bay, has been modified on the throttle body to go straight back like a vw motor.
Lots of extra reinforcement... especially brace from the gearbox side of the adaptor plate at the top, back to the major support between the wheel arches/shock towers.

Will post some nice pictures of all the different bits and pieces this week.

matt

bummer Matt, there goes morw moolah

aaarrr wise choice matty....motor looks good

So a factory 02' ecu won't do? Are the bigger injectors and turbo a factory thing that came with the 02' series, or is that ur addition (or u just comparing to previous model)?

Did u have to reassemble the loom for the aftermarket ecu or sumfin or was it just an adapter harness? even if u went the factory one ur still gonna leave us in the dust lol.

Or u got serious big mod plans just around the corner for the donk? hence the need for an aftermarket computer?

Maybe just a cheaper piggy back for tweakin?

As its been 4 years running with the old ecu and the original harness had a fault...i made my own and just used the factory plugs. There is too much modified to run stock ecu, and i have a digi dash etc already. I plan on having 2 boost settings on the e-boost. one for wet weather and days when i feel like an absolute pussy...say 12-14psi and then the rest of the time 18-20psi.

Will be ordering the new microtech tomorrow. has 4 ignitors included, and internal map sensor..much newer technology....has anti lag option etc. $1095. Will use my old one on the early sti engine we have to go in the orange superbug we are doing.that way i can take the whole harness out and plug and play with his...dyno just for the vf34 that it has got. It will also have one of Todds subaru boxes installed.

New computer friday... all night wiring it in... dyno hopefully next week... fingers crossed.

Matt

found this on phone

very nice, are you going to valla? i wanna go for another ride when its back on the road

or i should just hurry up & finish mine

on a side note, i forgot, where did you get those lights from, who makes them and so on

More detailed pics yet ??

There is no need to change the ecu, just use a 99/00 lh inlet cam pulley and the crank pulley you have already changed and it will work the same way it used to. It doesn't matter that you have 4 coils or 2, you just have to pair the ignitor outputs if the ecu will only run waste spark. I would recommend using the 3 wire coils that the new engine should have come with. They are inbuilt ignitor coils and very good and reliable. You just connect Ignition 1 to ignitor inputs 1 and 2 and Ignition 2 to ignitor inputs 3 and 4.

Matt I've checked with the experts in Uganda and they say the problem is with your ghey blue manifold - apparently it wants to eat da poo poo like ice cream.

Thanks JZK,

We thought there might be a crossover model that had a cam pulley we could use, although had sort of promised my old ecu to another car we are doing and didnt know for sure whether it was an option.

New ecu going in tonight and tomorrow.

Toddy, painted my air intake blue today after thinking of you.... a little deviant...maybe?

Matt