Joust found this site and would like to know what you think as a am always wandering how i am going to convince myself that a WRX engine is not as
good as a hot VW type 1 or Type IV...
http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/V6_baja/compare.html
just go WRX power. 
| Quote: |
| Originally
posted by Craig Torrens just go WRX power. |
Again, since you're building a race car it's about classes.
For CAMS Events:
- WRX engine == running as Sports Sedan or Sports Car Closed.
- Hot VW engine == running in Improved Production, or Sports Sedan, or Sports Car Closed, or 3C Rally Car Other.
For AASA Events:
- WRX engine == running with other 4 cyl turbo's (Sylvia's etc.) or 6 cyl cars, regardless of your times
- Hot VW engine == running with 4 cyl cars, or 6 cyl cars if your times are good enough
All depends on who you want to play with.
Oh and if you bolt in a WRX engine you better make sure you change your avatar.
| Quote: | ||
Originally
posted by matberry
Loser |
| Quote: | ||||
Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
the more conversions the better, subie is the only way to go. |
I know what i'd do......... 
open your mind MAtt, you're being left behind
I can see doors swinging in and out here
So Craig, when are you converting to the rice burning dark side?
stay tuned 
| Quote: |
| Originally
posted by Craig Torrens stay tuned |
Cheers sides, sorry i didn't mention i was just looking at the moment, but the figures make it hard to compete with. But Yup a good point is made
about the avatar. and afterall... isn't the point of a bug to have a bug...
conundrums... conundrums... conundrums.
about the class cheers sides i am building and aiming at improved production.
Cheers for the debate
just putting an interesting comparison sheet out there
Sorry for not being too helpfull. I haven't built many 1915's. I've experience in repairing or upgrading a few.
I'm presently planning a REAL 1915, purely for product evaluation......then I'll be able to give some constructive input...
The way I'm reading the chart there isn't much of a comparison. So what was the question again?
Wes' chart is hardly an unbiased comparison........
Yep, it's definately a case of apples and oranges.
You could build a dak dak that would mop the floor with both of those engines seeing as the example has less than half the power.
Admittedly Wes did that up alot of years ago, VW engine prices have gone up, a second hand 1916 thats a good runner would sell for a lot more than
$2500 these days and the price of conversion packages has come down.
Bring the 1915 to the drags
I give you a head start..... Then I win and we all can talk about that for a few weeks
WRX all tha wayyy!!!
From Dylan
seagull will you give me a head start.and what do i get when i flog you in your wrx poweredcar. anything.
i am thinking of building a 1916.as a spare.this might be a good money spinner.
anyone hear about the 1915 screaming mouse.if not go you tube.
Me too Brad. I've just swapped a stroker crank for a 69 for my next project....
i can see a major drag on debate goin to happen here
| Quote: |
Ok, where i am coming from... but let me preface this with i have not yet built or decided on my engine, and have only read what i am talking aout so
keep that in mind.
1915 route:
crank balencing, new heads or lots of machine work read expensive,
new carbs idf for srteetaility or ida for on/ off type power
Linkage and manifolds
1.25 ratio rockers or 1.4 ut again go up too high lose any street drivability
new cam?
new bearings
leads
barrels and piston choose your quality
full flow
oil cooling
new disy maybe
MSD mayby
cooling fan issues?
alternator conversion
leads
degree pully
lighten flywheel
Miscl bolts etc
bearings and other
And at this rate i am looking at a avried 100hp to maybe 160 if its stressed to the hilt. As far as i can reat any more than this and i am rely
burning money for each hp extra. And probably looking at $5-$8,000
OR
WRX route...
secondhand WRX donk $2-$3,000
coolong setup costs (front radiator)
mounting hardware (plate, clutch)
cutting firewall
Loom...
Soo for roughly $5,000 i could have a WRX motor putting out 150HP+ and the engine is not really that stressed... and plenty of aftermarket options
Or for 5000+ i could have a very enjoyable engine aircooled but only proably 120HP
8000 would get me into the 160HP+ region
Am i right in my assumptions or have i got it completely wrong.
Please rember this is a "discussion"
that "wrx route" list, looks somewhat simplified
as usual all the little things add up big time $$ with both set ups...........no one has yet proved it's easy to get 100hp from a 1916 without GOOD
parts and/or expert labour investment
brakes and driveline set up to handle the wrx power should not be overlooked either......ain't any use sitting in the shed regularly due to
breakages
ask JVL about his ride in the notch and wether any less of a driveline would cope with our "easy" shake down
| Quote: |
| Originally
posted by hellbugged that "wrx route" list, looks somewhat simplified as usual all the little things add up big time $$ with both set ups...........no one has yet proved it's easy to get 100hp from a 1916 without GOOD parts and/or expert labour investment brakes and driveline set up to handle the wrx power should not be overlooked either......ain't any use sitting in the shed regularly due to breakages ask JVL about his ride in the notch and wether any less of a driveline would cope with our "easy" shake down |
Come on kids....
Comparing a 1916 to a wrx engine is a bit insulting..
Its like comparing a 1916 to a 36hp.
I got my 2002 wrx motor with 50k on it for $1200 and it has 200kw at the wheels.
The biggest cost you will encounter with the wrx motor is the gearbox... I can say this because mine with albins internals but only a super diff was
towed to my shed today... seems the diff was not so super.
Maybe something in not having quite as many pony's in the back until the budget can handle the drive train.
The king of flange ...Todd from subaru gears will be sorting me a sti box in a few months when his next shipment arrives...
Craig should have changed his avatar along time ago...he is exceptionally strong in the dark side of the force!
Matt
subaru is the way to go, just jump in turn the key and away you go, no hard cold starts, a piece of piss to drive in the traffic and power on the HWY.
and as little as 7 ltr per 100Ks.
Sad to hear your diff finally gave out Matt.
Big shipment of flange on its way, both type 2 and 930, normal flange and extended flange.
It will be a flange party in my garage at the end of July.
Got you an STi box here ready to go, brand new gearset for it too.
You can thrash the hell out of it at the end of August.
I have a few 3rd gear 4.44 subaru gear sets ( H Gears ) here Matt for when you pop them