This will depend what ratio the front diff is.

Also what Subie box are you running? Is it an earlier 4WD one that is normally 2WD then locks into 4WD then into lo range by pulling up the lever? If so, because you will never be using 4WD on the bitumen, and only offroad on looser surfaces (dirt/mud/sand), you will be able to get away with a tyre size that is a little bit out from perfect because the wheels will slip slightly on the looser surfaces.


Smiley

yeah only really off road on loose stuff, this is just using stuff i have collected, have been wanting to do this for years
It is the l model dual range part time, not a full time box, though i do have one here also, i think they had a centre diff lock but poorer lo range ratio

Depends on the gearbox, some of the later 5 speed boxes had the lowest ratios lo range of all. 1.59:1 from memory. My mate is big into his Subies and currently has a 4 speed in it. The lo range is something like 1.4:1, he has the 5 speed at home that he is looking to swap in.


Smiley

As far as i know the part time 4wd l model box had the best lo range, the subie guys swap them into later gear boxs or swap their later gear sets into the early casing but keep the l series lo range, 1.59 i think.
Have been using the gear conversion chart and came up with some figures, looks like i will have to go to 4.44 diff or similar otherwise front wheels will be hopeless diameter,
31s on back 24.6" front with 3.7 diff
31s on back 29.5" front with 4.44 diff
33s on back 26.19 front with 3.7 diff
33s on back 31.43 front with 4.44 diff
This could all be a load of crap, dont rally know whats what in converter, im just wingin it and havent rounded off or converted to metric yet, but i definetly think i will have to go 33s on back for a start, suits me bigger the better, i have earlier reduction gears here as well but cant bring my self to cut into vintage stuff.

wish i had found this a week ago
http://www.onlineconversion.com/bigger_tires.htm 

Wow this could be tricky.

So if you have selectable 4wd then you could run it with any rear diff ratio in 2wd, but have to match the (front diff + front tyre ratio) with the (rear diff + redux boxes + rear tyre ratio) when you engage 4WD. And they will only match when wither in high range or in low range, not both. (I would suggest you get them to match in low range 4WD as that's where you will need your 4WD crawling ability).

The gearsets from EA and EJ boxes are interchangeable into the different casings as are the two different low range ratios. You just have to swap over bearings and bits to make them all fit.

Probably the ultimate is the earlier model 1.59:1 low range plus selectable 4WD plus a couple of LSD diffs. You can get Chinese torsen diffs for these transaxles for $450 landed in AUS and they are fine. Factory subie r160 lsd rear diffs (that would become your front diff) are plentiful and cheap.

The other thing you might want to consider is that some EJ boxes have a 1:1.1 step down gear to the output yoke. So this could also be factored into your ratios to really mess with your mind.

Depending on if you have a super or beam pan either can be made to accommodate subie front hubs. Have a look at my build thread on the Samba "4WD conversion begins" and you'll see more info.

Yeah i thought i would be ok with both ranges, can some one tell me what the highest (numeric) range is in the r160s?
ttriebler i have your samba thread up on the pc permanatly!, nice work. How are you going with the way you are mounting front hubs? i was thinking i might add onotherbeam across front end (bottom) and mount lower trailing arms in that, it will also give a heap of lift to the front depending on what hubs i use, but axle clearance could be an issue. About the lower geared rgbs I do have two sets of earlier redux here but they are for the good project when i nut this out and am happy with it.
These big nut rgbs were to go in my bay but then i got onto a factory set up with irs.....so still waiting for guy to strip the bus, has only been like 18 months
Actually started laying stuff out on pan today, trying to work out what arms plates etc i am going to use, i think i will use modded bay arms and cut down bay or split plates with the double spring plates mount on short torsion bars.
I have a l bug pan here as well and while it would be heaps easier to mount stuff in that like the subie struts, i hate struts so that is not going to happen.

hmmmmmm silly me of course mackaymanx is correct, both hi and low ratio will work fine, what was I thinking!!!

Front hub mounting on a beam pan suspensions was challenging. Lots of machining and some custom bits (which is all in the thread) but it fits up fine. Haven't driven it yet though so don't know how well the castor and camber will work out.

Your extra beam idea sounds interesting, give it a shot and see how it all looks. You have to try!!

Had another idea about putting stub carrier in original beetle spindles and have stub further in towards diff to let cv clear arms but it might put to much load on bearing assembly and would worsen affect of forces on cv when steering, bugger!

Isn't the front easy, strut front end with golf struts???

Struts suck! Actually i dont like the way they mount more than anything

Thought i would put a pic up to show the massive progress ive made, well not really but at least i started, cut into frame head and really is intriguing how its all welded up. Pic doesnt show it but kombi is more interesting anyway. Am wondering about a different front diff...maybe small BMW unit or if someone has idea about something else im all ears.

Quote:

Originally posted by bevelhead Struts suck! Actually i dont like the way they mount more than anything

Ahhh....sorry if i hit a stut soft spot. I will just chuck everything back in the subie and be done with it.

You didn't hit a soft spot man. I have a Baja and it's beam front.

All I'm saying is look into your options and what's going to work best. Hubs and spindles, CVs and driveshafts is quiet a bit of unsprung weight for a beam front end to keep in check.


Smiley

Hehe...yeah i know. im just stirrin. I know it would solve a lot of hassles using a strut, i may even use the l bug up the back for that next time like that all wheel drive auto crosser that used to race in the UK.
I want to do this thing using a beam but, so i will just have to work it in somehow. It would be nice to have a custom shaped trailing arm/s on the front to give a bit more room for a spindle with a cv. If i end up getting into stage of reworking beam alot i could use kombi arms, they are bloody solid and have a bit of meat on them.

Highly unlikely but if anyone has a set of old datsun axles to sell let me know

Here are some pics of different cv/rgb etc set ups i have come across on the net,