Over a few beers a mate and I decided to enter my 1970 (swing axle) beetle in next year’s Classic Adelaide, one year away. What I’m looking to get
opinions on is how to make the car reliable and safe in the first instance, speed and engine considerations to come later. So here’s what I have
come up with, what have I missed or what don’t I require?
You better give me a ring and come round for a chat.
Talk to Boris, VVDS I believe he has done a Targa in a beetle
He has done several and just finished a new chassis for customer
Please remove the narrowed beam and fit a standard width beam.
That will make a HUGE improvement in handling.
Cheers Col
Guy Harding has also done Targa in a Swing Axle bug!
That narrow beam.Not that cool might want to swap that out.
And the dropped spindles.And if you start getting brake pad knockoff,thats the chinese spindles flexing under load.
Wow thank you all for your replies. The beam and spindles were fitted by the previous owner so I'll look into replacing them. NB I keep meaning to
call but time gets away from me in the evenings with 2 little ones. I'll come over for a chat and also call Boris.
Any more suggestions are welcome and I'll keep you all updated.
ditto all above. In fact Boris's targa car is now my bug, the subi TT one.
if you use the z bar probably don't need the CC bar but you need to tighten the z bar up all the way. In fact best to take it out and use a CC bar,
but others might know more about this.
will be great to have another circuit beetle getting around, keep us posted....
Hi guys. Quick update, I'll soon have the chassis off having an IRS conversion done. So not Z bar and no CC either - should change the title of the
post. I have identified that even though the beam is shortened the track is as original with the vented disk conversion on the front that the previous
owner did. So I'm going to keep it. I'm unsure about the spindles, they look much more sturdy than original ones, massive alongside in fact, so I'm
tossing up whether to change them out or not.
I have been trying to get a primer coat on the body for the last three days but each time I look at it I get all anal and do more prep work, it's
hard to know when to stop and just get the primer on.
I also have to investigate racing classes as I'd like to use the car for either circuit or hill climbs as well once built, not just Targa. here's a
pic of how it was looking last week.
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I am doing his IRS conversion Greg-what are your thoughts on that.I remember talking to you about what you have done to old No 8's front and rear suspension to make it handle well.
If your running a stock engine what about putting some kads or 36idfs on and exhaust just for some extra oomppfff...you will need every last hp with
those hills etc....
Why are you thinking plastic windows?? You will not be able to run with plastic etc in road rego class for supersprints and hillclimbs.I think you
would end up in sports sedan corect me if I'm wrong...
Rear torsion bars I think stock or type 3 size would be fine as you are not running big power...
If you are getting your gearbox built why not put in a closer 3rd and fourth.. Will help!pull out of those corners that bit easier....
Cheers
Fabo
Man get a rule book first unless you just won lotto.
Cheers Fabo
I was thinking the plexiglass for weight reduction but you're right I need to check the class rules first! I have a pair of 40 Idfs that I plan to
put on whatever the engine ends up being, after initial investigations running in a sub 2000cc class is the best bet but I'm waiting until I can get
some definite info before proceeding with it.
I also hadn't considered the torsion beam change, what would be the benefit of going to a type 3 beam?
As for the box thanks for the tip, I'll look at the ratios and getting third and forth "welded" although I'm not 100% on what benefit that would
bring.
Happydaze I hope I didn't offend, it's the last thing I want to do to guys in the vw community before I haven even built a car! I'm just taking
advice where I can and after talking to nbturbo it seemed that the IRS conversion fitted my brief of a reliable and safe car. Thank you for the
thoughts on the parts and I'm still open ears to your advice.
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Thanks Fabo...for making me feel really old.
Gary...PM replied to.
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Bend the top trailing arms, to help achieve 4 to 5mm camber. And trim the excess off the top of the frame horns to reduce tyre rubbing. And extra
eccentric camber adjusting nut. Castor plate, one or two.
Rear brakes to type 3. And better shoe material. Replace all the gear linkage rubbers, make sure it's shifting nice.
Possibly solid front and rear gearbox mounts
IRS is a great idea.
Type 3 rear bars may not be enough, look at bigger ones.
Roll cage to stiffen pan.
Run bars to front beam also. Strength and safety.
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Your track maybe the same, but your scrub radius would have changed. The spindles may look sturdy, but they flex more than standard beetle ones due to the inferior materials used to make them.........also check with your CAMS requirements for the class as they may not be legal. |
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?action=attachment&tid=85...
http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af113/Aussiedubbin/DSC04526.jpg
Front G Box mount
http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af113/Aussiedubbin/DSC04583.jpg
Thanks for the pics AussieDubbin.
Managed to finally get the body into primer last night at 11:30.
1 coat of etch and two of primer. Under wings are going black over good condition OG paint so no need to prime.
looking good Dicko. When we did my car we had to keep reminding ourselves that it is a race car. Overwise you'll get so caught up about the finish
it will take forever. We use to joke that we'd put a sticker on any bad areas. I've run mine now for 5 years and has heaps of stone chips but
luckily no panel damage. (must not be trying hard enough....)
Aussie dubber comments are on the mark for sure.
Cheers Lou. Yeah the biggest risk to this car looking good is going to be my driving for sure. Hopefully I can keep it in good nick until Classic Adelaide 2016.
you will love the event. The most fun I've had behind the wheel. Make sure you have a good deep sump or dry sump it. Nice large extra oil cooler (one
stage is 43km long) all new brakes. Semi slick tyres- the softest available. Get the car light as possible.plenty of fibre glass and plastic windows-
these can easily be changed to suit other racing if needed Close 3 rd and forth gear with lsd if the budget will stretch.
LOCTITE everything!! Everything that can come loose will!!
Defiantly bend the top trailing arms on the front. 3-4 neg camber plus 2 x castor shims. Good sway bars. Find adjustable white line bars if you can.
Probably my biggest tip is buy pass notes from a well known racer. These are a great safety thing but allows you to go flat over that crest knowing
what's out of sight. Then do as much recce as you can.
Do as many hill climbs/ sprint days before hand to sort the car
Cheers Adam
Thanks Adam
Things are coming along slowly. The chassis is with NBturbo getting some mods and he is also bending the top trailing arms. I was in the process of
building an engine for it (with NB's help) but that engine is now going in my wife's 68 Westfalia (with a drastically different spec but still with
some top notch parts). I'm at a standstill with the road/race engine as I don't know if I should go VWRX or not. the reason for this thinking is
that $ for hp the EJ20 engine and trans is just a better deal but a lot more work and I'm not 100% comfortable with the idea of going away from the
VW engine. decisions decisions...
Paint wise I have the rear guards and engine lid to do and re-do the bonnet for the third time.
Anybody got any widened rear wings in SA or VIC? Non flared? John Sherman has but the postage is the same price as the wings themselves unfortunately.