I've had a great day today. It's sure great being a single guy sometimes, as how many girlfriends would let you build an engine in the loungroom in front of the TV like I've started doing today. They surely wouldn't have let me spend this much on an engine!

Well here it is, my new turbo engine. Still working out what I'm going to do for heads, but thus far the only factory parts are the gasket kit, cam drive gear, woodruf keys and gear retaining clip. Thats about as stock as it gets.

All engine parts are imported. The crankcase is a welded machined and fully worked over Rimco case, crank is a CB 4340 nitrided 84mm stroker with chevy big ends, rods are 5.6" h beam 4340's, cam is a engal turbo grind TCS-10, cb strait cut timing gears, and a dry sump oil system.

I'm wanting some reliability and drivability with this new turbo engine, so i'm planning on keeping the boost to a sane 7lb for street use, but when wound up to say 15lb it should be able to produce in excess of 280hp.

Should do easy 11's I think, and eat STI's for breakfast.

I'm fitting cylinders tomorrow to measure up what spacers and head gaskets I need to run a 7.2:1 compression.

Here's some pictures.

[Edited on 29-5-2004 by iswinkels]

Amazing how beautiful a few pieces of metal can be!
So jealous!
Dan

that's gonna be one awesome motor!!!

i know what you mean with the single guy thing too, i'd never get away with spending all my $ on my car if i had a missus!!!

kai

My 1971 toyota two door with a $380.00 MR2 turbo motor runs 11.5 seconds :alien

Not a whole lot of width wider i'm guessing

I'll probably end up with a 0.060" or 0.090" head gasket, and the spacers will probably be arount 0.090" too. Just guessing of course, as this is the first stroker i've built.

Pistons are 94mm mahle B forgies, which are designed for strokers (wrist pin is closer to the top and rings).

The heads i'll be running are either 56cc's or 57cc's I think, depending on whether I go with the CNC round port cb head, their street eliminator head, or a mofco 050 cnc head. Still undecided ...

I guess i'll find out how much wider exactly tomorrow when the pistons go on for a trial fit up. It won't be a problem fitting it in the engine bay tho, because if it measures too wide, i'll just have the body modified a little. Its at the panel shop at the momemnt receiving the full bare metal respray treatment.

Here's a pic of that too...

Cheers,

Ian.

Cool

The MoFoCo heads don't have a real good reputation from what I've read on the forums. Just thought you should know so you can make an informed decision.

what brakes are you going to use to pull this up ?

Porsche 305mm 944 turbo ventilated brakes, 4 piston calipers.

I haven't done the rear end yet (currently type3), but that will me 944 turbo also. I've been too busy with other projects....

And here's a picture!

Yes... interesting how a few bits of metal can be so loverly! Those 944 Turbo calipers look a treat! Keep up the great work dude!

btw, whats the advantage of having straight cut cam gears?

Cheers
C

yes that is correct 1 to 2 hp less oil lag .my mild motor I cut a grove on the lathe in the gears works a treat .

gears get whiney like big block race cars ey?

nice one!

Straight cut gearing eliminates all load on the cam thrust bearings, and yes they are less friction also.

Eliminating thrust is a comfort to me knowing that there won't be any end float of the cam. I've had to clearence the cam next to the center bearing to clear the #3 rod on the down stroke. There isn't a lot of clearence between the rods and the cam with an 84mm crank.

I can't hear the straght cut gearing of my current engine over the noise of the 911 11 blade fan, not to mention the 2 1/2" exhaust, or the turbo spooling up.

Ever wondered why air cooled porsches sound like they do? Well it's mostly fan noise. Not that I mind my VW sound like a porsche on steroids!

Cheers,

I konw that straight cut gears a weaker than helical-cut gears as only 2 teeth are handling the load... this wouldnt be a concern I presume?

Choppa has a turbo set up in Perth for sale ,as well as some big new pots ect to clear .he has the subaru turbo in there

just went to ya website... your car sounds amazing!

Yes straight cut gearig would be weaker if it were an aluminium on steel straight cut setup, but the gearing material is forged 8640 chromoly steel, which is the same type of steel used with gearing in transmissions. Pretty strong stuff.

Thanks for the feedback about the website too. I'm actually updating it now with some info about how the garrett GT25-320HP turbo upgrade performs.

I'm running 15lb boost now with a turbosmart gated controller to bring boost on faster.

I've also added an air bleed valve recently to allow computer controlled idle speed, all in the name of making the car a little more friendly to drive. It works realy well too, regardless of engine tempreture.



[Edited on 29-5-2004 by iswinkels]

Hi Ian,

I've got the same rods in 5.5 inch, they really are a work of art, it's a shame they are hidden away in the case. Any particular reason u chose 5.6 inch?

As for the barrel spacers, u need a 9mm spacer for an 84mm crank with 5.7 inch rods with 'B' pistons, of course every engine will be different but this will give an idea what u are looking at . Have u seen the new 'C' pistons with an even shorter crown to gungeon pin height.?

In regards to hp, the last time we went to the dyno, Leighs 2007cc turbo got 155hp @ the wheels at around 5000rpm with only 13psi boost, should have been running 15psi. He has since fixed the boost & ran a 12.9 quarter in a 900kg street car. We'll be going back to the dyno soon so it should make a bit more with the boost sorted.

regards
Jak

Out of interest, what sort of side clearance did you end up with, with between the rods, crank ? I only ask because I found them (CB) to be a bit on the loose side (.018 - .020" )

Straight cuts only whine if they are tight on the backlash (friction ???) mine make no noise at all...

With the low compression I would guess it will be 20mm or so wider overall, could be fun getting everything to fit !!!

Gonna be an awesome ride though !!!

[Edited on 29-5-2004 by AdrianH]

Adrian, my rod side clearences averaged 0.020" also, which is within spec but closer to the loose end of the scale. Factory clearence is 0.06"-0.028".

I figure the bigger gap could be intentional as the crankshaft and rods are made of a diferent material than the factory crank and rods. I'm no metallurgist though. My rod bearing clearences were all 0.038mm, factory being 0.016mm - 0.102mm, so I was quite happy with that.

Jak, does Leigh have a webpage that I might read about his ride? The HP figure doesn't seem right because my 1641 turbo engine is making about 160 at the wheels with 15lb boost at about 5500 rpm.

I had a lot of issues getting that figure though. Exhaust gasket leaks, leaking header welding, and intake system leaks from bad gaskets that only leak when under pressure are a pain to fix. Thanks to that copepr based high temp silicon and a full set of new intake gaskets and seals it's all under control now.

Is he running carbs or an EFI computer? Is it intercooled or or water injected?

Cheers,

wow! this is interesting stuff. awesome job on the car ian.

Youll get different stories form different people, bentley says .04 - .16" end play (side clearance) in a stocker. Wider clearance helps get rid of hot oil, as long as you have the volume to keep up with the evacuation !!! Dont wanna starve those bearings...

Well I have measured up the deck heights for each cylinder, and it appears the engine will be about 9.5mm wider than stock over all. It requires 6.5mm of spacers to achieve a 0 deck height.

I'll be using a 0.395" (10mm) spacer on each barrel with an additional 0.010" shim, which gives me a 0.147" deck height. With the 0.060 copper head gasket, i'll have my 7.23:1 compression.

For those that build their own engines, have a look at this excel spreadsheet. It's great for calculating compression ratio's and engine geometry.

About the oil system... I'm using a dry sump pump, and have an electric oil pump to circulate oil from the tank through the remote cooler. The electric pump is controlled by the efi computer.

I've been looking at turbo charging for a while now, and the biggest prob is room, what turbo are you looking at running and what type of cooling have you thought of, other than that it sounds like a great combo good luck and keep us informed.

Cheers

Have a look at my website. I've just finished uploading the new content with the stage 3 turbo upgrade. The turbo i'm currently running, and will be using on this new engine is a garrett gt25-320HP turbo. On a 2380 it will be a little on the small side, but I'm not chasing all out HP.

On this engine the GT25 will be lag free, and will basicly drive like i've got 4.5 litres of engine capacity.

Cooling on the current engine is a home made porsche style system with a remote oil cooler. The new cooling system is a sharpbuilt carbon fiber shroud. I have a lot of custom work to do though to fill in the gaps around the turbo, and pully etc.

I'm taking the car off the road for a month to do the fit out, just so I can make it all perfect.

http://www.clubvw.org.au/leigh_harris.htm 

Heres a link to Leighs car. It will rexplain everything in heaps of detail.

regards
Jak