http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/ASP/911springplate.htm 

if the yanks where into there circuit stuff i think something would have been made like this for the volksy already...but nup straight line stuff it is......how bout some limiting straps...lol.....poop...

$1200USD, thats a shitload of folding stuff for something there is other alternatives for, theres alot of work involved in making it yes but i swear someone makes adjustable inner trailing arm pivots that do the same thing, granted not AS well but still... price difference wise... will try track down the inner adjusting bolts, dangerous was tinkering with something similar while i was getting some on my suspension stuff done too from memory...

quick search of germanlook & sbo says no on the bolts, just adjust the angle of the spring plate where it bolts to the trailing arm up/down for camber, forward/back for toe & you get a few degrees of movement

DB's ontoit !

Sounds good DB but how does that adjust i cant see it being off center at all. Looks like parallel sides?

me want some db.....

Anyone with a lathe can make a set in about 4 hours.
To get maximum camber adjustment you may have to clearance the area on the arm that is close.

Hi

Marco the steam engine on Shoptalk was doing a similar thing. I've been pestering him for ages to buy a set but nothing as yet.

Are you going to make these Dave?

I have excessive toe out on my car after fitting 944 rear trailing arms. I wanted a set of these to move my pivot point forward so that I could get the correct amount of toe.

Steve

As Dave has done, it's not necessary to replace the whole pivot box, just offset machine the stock pin and turn the adjuster sleeve to fit

Mine are slightly different to Marco's.
Marco has an inner washer that adds to the toe out, but mine does not.
Yes I can make a set,
but will need your bolts, two washers and
your urethane bushes so I can make them a firm fit inside the bushes.
$240.

Hi Dave

I will be in touch. Can you see any problem in using these to get more toe in?

Matt, Marco only fitted them to a new box pivot box for demonstration purposes.

Steve

who the hell rips their rear end apart at midnight when its all bolted in nicely already? yep me!
about those 944 springplates, combined with something like those bushes, should have stacks of adjustment, oh tilting the springplate/trailing arm up/down in relation to each other makes sense now too..

Hi

When I 1st got my bug on the ground with alloy 944 arms I had really bad Toe out, I've since been able to get it almost right by elongating the holes on the spring plate and trimming a bit of the end of the spring plate.

I will look into these soon, I also have an issue with my wheel base being 30 mm too long.

Steve

wider/longer arms on the rear & alot more castor on the front added that much???

Hi

Must be all in the front caster, the rear wheels look to be in the centre of the wheel opening, fronts look to be forward.

It was one of the things that the RTA weren't happy with. Longer wheel base means that it would be classed as an ICV (individually constructed vehicle)

Steve

hi kids, while my rear end is apart (really have to find an electorplater asap!) i thought id snap a few pics of the adjustment range before getting eccentric bushes or the $$$$$$ spring plate replacement...
going off other peoples explanations of camber/toe etc these pics should help understanding whats going on...
this is original parts, no mods necessary, 8-10mm of toe adjustment..
TOE OUT


TOE IN


Pos camber - angle of the spring plate in reference to the trailing arm...

Neg camber - theres a few mm in movement, hopefully its clear enough

and the added bonus of 944 plates being height..
RAISED - outer section of spring plate in reference to the inner part

LOWERED - adjustment is done with an eccentric bolt & a locking bolt

Hope that helps people visualise what they are doing prior to attacking it
and yes its easier without torsion bars & the bushings fighting your movements but at least you can see what your aiming for now!

oh and to save grinding the rear body/shock mount for clearance to the adjusting nuts...

try dual spring plate covers & 6mm spacer in behind the spring plate against the inner torsion bushing, theoretically it should work fine - ill confirm once ive got it all back together
see the germanlook thread ive been searching for for awhile to get an idea how i mean, might have it made up tomorrow if im lucky
http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10863 

possibly a sorta detour drive thru visit wednesday late arvo between the vw driving thing & the vwdcq comittee meet, attempting to source spare bolt tomorrow before driving all over the countryside with a car trailer for a friend

so can this work with a 69 pan.....thanks?

So long as it's IRS, then sure !!!

will db bolt bolts work on a 69 non IRS pan ?

Nope - swingaxles don't have those bolts at all.

Another very simple approach is to use some washers to space between the spring plate and the bit where it bolts to the hub. Ive seen this idea on a few slammed bay windows to correct the heinous toe out/ excessive neg camber, though it might be little different with the 3 bolt design of the beetle spring plate

Nice work stibs..pics tell and show...