Hi everyone
I've been lurking on the forum for a while now and finally decided to make a post.

We've been involved in circuit racing for the past 12 years now. Both our cars are swing axle & link pin chassis. At this stage we compete in the Historic racing tour.

The #71 car is powered by a 1914cc t1 and the #170 car by a 1776cc t1.

#170 in action

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_3jW88i3dU

#71 in action

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hopzLKRmLRk

Great to see and welcome to here. What is the grill in the front apron for?

Yogie

Good stuff. Swing-axle, link-pin.... Drum brakes?

welcome aboard...i have been following your circuit racing posts on shoptalk for a while now and am very impressed and love watching your vids....hope to see more soon.

fabo.....

I was worried there for a sec you were gonna say you are racing them with 4AGE engines
Great in a straight line but forget fast cornering

My first beetle was a 4age engined '69 bug. Since then my forum name has been 4agedub. All our racing bugs run with t1 engines... so no more 4age.

I was thinking the same thing Greg

We're not alone!

Quote:

Originally posted by HappyDaze Good stuff. Swing-axle, link-pin.... Drum brakes?

very impressive !! I loved watching your vids and excellent driving . Your engines sound so sweeeet ..... well done guys from WPVW Racing , keep it up and keep the vids coming

Thanks for all the replies.

We are testing this weekend at Midvaal raceway. I'll post some vids afterwards.

[img] http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g150/lavuob/Midvaal.jpg  [/img]

Quote:

Originally posted by 4agedub My first beetle was a 4age engined '69 bug. Since then my forum name has been 4agedub. All our racing bugs run with t1 engines... so no more 4age.

The 4age engine does offer good value for money. (Compared to what it costs to build a beetle engine)

I loved my 4age engined bug, it ran good and was real reliable. But, did not make as much power as my 1914cc

Here's my Toyota engined bug.

Testing went well this weekend. No more oil leaks We battled with oil leaks for some time now, so this is a relief. I think my engine's tappet covers were cracked causing most of the problems.

The track was very dirty and I decided to go out on the semi's and not slicks due to track conditions. Even with the slippery conditions I managed a 1:19,4 which is not too bad.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egErThTJm1s&feature=youtu.be

As normal we did not go home in one piece. I hit a pothole on the track that caused one of my front suspension bushes to collapse. At least no real damage.

I absolutely loved the vid of you storming through the field from the back of the pack.
Great cars and nice driving!

great to see you moving thru the field, it must drive those other guys crazy to see you loom up in the miirrors and then just drive past them! outside, inside up the middle, fantastic!
thanks for sharing.

You really turn out some nice cars

Ok front suspension fixed.

We've always had a problem with the front suspension arms bending when entering a corner. So this weekend I made up two brackets and welded them to the top suspension arm.

Previously I have already welded brackets onto the shock towers that protrude into the car and joins to the roll cage. This added a lot of stiffness to the entire front suspention. We found that the suspention would actually bend on the chassis.

how does the rack & pinion feel compared to the std steering box....any down sides etc...

It's lighter to turn that steering box. But I've found the steering response to be slower than a std box. For a car with a lot of caster it's worth the mod.

We had the 5th round of our local historic racing championship this past weekend.

Both cars finished, but #170 did get some battle scars in race 2.
#71 finished 2nd in class E
#170 fninished 3rd in class F

So it was a good weekend.

#71 Race 1
#71 Race 2

#170 Race 1
#170 Race 2

Some pics from this weekend:

Ouch

Looks great. Thanks for posting.

Do you mind telling how much neg. camber [F & R] you are running. I have done a similar mod. to the front end. Tyre pressures would be handy, too. PM if you prefer.

Cheers,

Greg

I have not measured the front camber recently as I do not have the right equipment to do so properly.

Front is in the region of 3' on #71
Front is in the region of 2.2' on #170
Rear is in the region of 0.5'
Double caster shims

Continental full slicks on #71. 2,1bar Rear cold and 2,2bar Front Cold. (Hot front and rear go to 2,3bar)
Dunlop Direzza 02g Semi slicks on #170. Rear 1.7bar cold and 1.8bar front cold. (Hot front and rear go to 2 bar)

Both cars run about 30min toe out on the front and a little tow in on the rear.

[img] http://online-tyres.com.ua/data/category/68303.jpg [/img]

We will be converting the #71 car back to link pin soon as the rose jointed suspension simply bends away. The link pins bind onto itself and then makes everything rigit.

Thank you for that extremely useful information....very generous of you.

PM sent.

No problem.

There is no reason for keeping secrets... this is one of the thing I hate most about VW racers abroad, they simply do not share any info. eg, I've been battling with my cylinder heads for a while now and all the "big guys" in beetle drag racing simply wont share any info. The answer I get is," send me your heads and a $1000 then I'll have a look at them"

Try posting your questions here, Louis......there are some experienced people who may be able to help.

you boys can drive..have you modified your foot pedals at all cause you can heal and toe very nice.id have to move my acc pedal back quite a bit to be able to do it in mine...

those are nice one wheel off the ground pics..looks good...

would you mind sharing engine combos and gearbox ratio's ??

and a spool,know one would of thought...a lot cheaper option then a lsd and its working for you...sweet...

cheers fabo..........