I got my camera a little late so the crank is already in place.
(have since removed it and added a photo)
It is an 82.5mm (3.25") stroke with 351 Ford main bearings,
and Big Block Chevy conrod bearings.
The crank started out as a piece of 4340 bar that was 150mm diameter,
and 400mm long. It took 90 hours to make.
The bore is 102.36mm (4.03") Ross pistons, and cylinders that I made
from cast iron.

[ Edited on 29-12-2005 by dangerous ]

[ Edited on 8-1-2006 by dangerous ]

[ Edited on 21-5-2006 by dangerous ]

The rods are Pauter "Blower" rods and are 5.85" long
with 350Chev/308Holden gudgeon pin size, (.927").
That's about 23.5mm, which is in between type 1 (22mm) and type 4 (24mm).
The rods are type 1 width on the big end.

[ Edited on 21-5-2006 by dangerous ]

All the headstuds are VW 10mm except the top two
corners, which are 12mm ARPM.
They all have to be cut to the right length.
VW used 10mm studs from the beginning so they come
in lengths with about 10 or 12mm steps, and are more
than strong enough if you can fit them next to the cylinder.

Here are the finished pistons.
The inlet notch is .300" deep and the exhaust is .200" deep.
These pistons don't allow any more depth, so this governs how much I could flycut the head for compression, based on the piston to valve clearance with this camshaft.
The notches are about 12.5cc.
Pistons are setup flush with the top of the barrel and there
is a .055" step in the head to provide the deck clearance.

[ Edited on 29-12-2005 by dangerous ]

These are the Titanium valves I will be using.
Inlet is 2.125" (54mm), and exhaust is 1.6" (40.6mm).
They are sitting on the flywheel I made to suit the 930 tranny.
I made another flywheel to suit the VW tranny, so I can test the engine in the "Mule"...pan car.

Some people use clay to check the piston to valve clearance, which works well if you are just checking.
I use this method so I can tell exactly how much I have.
In this case, .066".

The ratio will be 12.9:1.
Head CCs average 44cc including the .055 step.
Notch CCs average13cc.
One cylinder is 679cc.
So, (679+44+13) divided by (44+13) = 12.9

you d'man. what an awesome build up. I can't believe you made half of the components. :thumb

I am using 1.6 rockers on the inlet, for .710" lift,
and 1.4 on the exhaust for .625" lift.
This check was done using light checking springs, so
with heavy springs and lash, actual lift will be less.
The comparison with VW 1.1 rockers shows how strong they are.
Of interest is that the VW rockers on heavy shafts were the
ones on my 2827cc blown motor that ran the 9.76!

Look closer....not clean enough!

Nice work Dave...blown away by the fact you make your own parts.

Here is some photos of the cam and lifters of the roller type.
This cam has 286 degrees of duration at .050" and a 110 degree lobe centre.

[ Edited on 8-1-2006 by dangerous ]

Cam bolts into case from the underside with three caps.
Lifters go in from the outside like a type 4 but have a roll pin to stop them turning.
The pushrods are made from 4130 cromoly tubing that
is .375" outside diameter and .058" wall thickness.
These are 292mm long.

[ Edited on 7-1-2006 by dangerous ]

Here is the plate that bolts onto the back of the case with the oil seal in it.
These come extra thick so you can make any type of flywheel.
Mine is extra thin, now because of the crank and flywheel that I had in a previous WBX case.
It is held to the back of the case with countersunk allen screws.

Because I machined the engine plate down so thin, I have to attatch the lid so that there is strength enough for fitment to the engine stand.

Holy moly Dave - that is certainly some serious hardware there! Thanks for shaing all the pics and info in this and the other threads - I am certainly learning a lot!

After washing and drying everything , I got out some tools that I made to assemble the springs on the heads.
Normal spring compressors have a little trouble compressing these monsters, so I do it on the milling machine.
Here is the tool I made that goes between the retainer and the chuck on the mill.

I set the head up at a 9 degree angle and put a resin plug under the valves so that they dont drop down.
Then the spring is compressed with the tool over the retainer, and the collets are fitted.

Prior to final assembly, I have back cut the valves at a 30 degree angle for better flow at low lifts.
I also radiused the spring's base to stop it riding on the radius in the spring pocket.

[ Edited on 21-5-2006 by dangerous ]

These are the big collets that I am using

Once the springs are installed, the travel is checked on the mill using the digital readout, to get .750" travel.
This ensures that I have .060" extra room over the valve lift of .690".
With this installed height, these springs have 220 lbs of seat tension, and 590 lbs at full lift.

Another view of the spring Installing tool

Those keepers look like they sit very high in the retainers, is that normal on those heads? A modified G clamp works nice for a valve spring compressor too. Its a bit lighter than a mill when you need to service heads at the track.

Note to self... Don't read this thread again as i'll be tempted to build an autocraft turbo engine for my street car.... And I know i'll never be able to afford a gearbox that will hold together for that...

Seriously Awesome stuff! I especially liked the resin plug idea and the too you use to allow you to fit in the retainer locks. Much better than a rag packed inside the combustion chamber when compressing the springs with a tool that bolts onto the head studs.

Collets are minus .100" Exceldyne units.
The extra material is there because the ring that locates in the valve stem is high, and it needs more support.

holy moly....... this is serious VW engine porn

What a fantastic buildup..... I assume this is the new all motor engine Dave ?

I've never seen one of those Pauter cases in closeup before, its a pretty serious bit of kit....

Roller rockers, roller lifters..... all good stuff

What are the hopes for this is terms of torque and hp ?

Dave

With your talent and skills, should get into manufacturing Volksie bits!

Just need a financial backer, factory with all the latest machinery and an export market to the States!

"DANGEROUS" forged chromoly cranks etc.!!!!
Be nice to get decent Quality Forged 4130 Stroker cranks out there again!

I am hoping that this engine is about 40hp better than the one currently in the car.
Head flow is less but the cam is 20 degrees longer, and it has .055" deck instead of the .125 that the current
engine has (because of past damage and needed piston to valve clearance).
Hopefully this will push the car closer to the Tens and 120mph that I was hoping for
with the dunger that is in the car now.
The engine in these posts is the old blown engine transformed for N/A use.

Whilst inspecting the rings, I found some damage to the expander, so will have to fit some others.
This may have happened from poor assembly techniques or fatigue, either way they are NFG and have to be replaced.

As you can see by comparison to the good one, the end has broken away.
This will result in reduced wall tension, and may allow oil to contaminate the air/fuel charge.
This can cause detonation.