Bit quiet on here, so here are some photos of the engine
removal, with a plan to replace it with the one in the other post.

This is a 2700cc combo that makes 188hp at 6700rpm on a chassis dyno (215fw hp), and ran 11.50@115.95 in an 1807lb Volksy (about 820kg)

[ Edited on 4-3-2006 by dangerous ]

This is the oil pump relief valve that I use.
It is a poppet type that is set at 100 psi, and returns to the system on the suction side of the pump.
The copper gasket is for the 4 bolt flange and suits the Pauter head.

This is the oil system mounting and plumbing.
Also the fuel pump drive that I made that drives through the oil pump gears via the cam slot.

Feel free to ask any questions.
The oil pump is a regular early style shadek 26mm, that I have bunged on the oulet
and put O rings on to seal in the case hole.
The shaft has been pressed out, and a new one turned up out of 4140 steel.
The new one is longer with an allen screw in the end to drive the hex on the fuel pump.
There are bearings and seals in the aluminium body to support the new shaft.
I flame hardened, and tempered the tang to reduce wear and it has worked superbly.

[ Edited on 4-3-2006 by dangerous ]

Here you can see the heat zone on the pump drive tang where it fits inside the cam slot.
The engine is all stripped of its accesories now, and only the sump is left for removal for the new engine combo.
Most of the other accesories will also be refitted to the new combo too.
Should be an interesting comparison with so many things the same, but some basic internal details different.

[ Edited on 4-3-2006 by dangerous ]

Dave, do you use any sealing compound on the threads of the oil line fittings (eg. the bung that screws into the oil filter)? I understand they are probably tapered, but wasn't sure if any sealing is required?

Hi Alan,
where a thread goes into anything other than another fitting,
I use the white loctite thread sealer, or if that is unavailable, thread tape.
Permatex or curil would work well too.
In theory, no sealer should be needed on taper, or JIC fittings that have an O ring, but I wont tempt fate.
Just have to be careful with that teflon pasted, because it is pretty slippery,
and you could easily over tighten the fitting.

Cheers Dave, much appreciated. Can't wait to hear your new engine roar down the strip.

I've been explicitly warned not to use thread tape on the oil pressure sender-to-case tapered fitting for that exact reason. Too "slippery" and will lead to a cracked case.

[ Edited on 6-3-2006 by 56astro ]

Yes, I would agree.
Such a small thread size with a large hex can spell disaster with a slippery sealant.
I would probably use permatex or nothing at all in that particular case.
The best solution is to use a thread that has a parrallel thread, and an O ring for sealing, as in hydraulics.

One call to my Brother, and he is over giving me a hand to swap over the engines.
The workshop floor is a disaster area after the rain over the past week, but I have a deadline, and so have to get it done.
The old long block is 83kg and the replacement is 81kg.
This is dry weight with no clutch or oil pump and system.

Clutch cas been wearing well considering the heat marks in the floater disc.
Needed to use shorter bolts with this particular flywheel.
I made this clutch from old flywheels and had my clutch guy rivet a holden diafragm into it.
The disc is a 180mm deal and the diafragm has 2700lbs clamp force.
The spacer's length is such that the cover is spaced to give maxiumum pressure without going over centre.
As the clutch wears, I can just shorten the spacers to account for the wear.

A bit hard to see, but the fingers are just above level.
The length of the spacers controls this.

Damn clever stuff Dave.... I especially like the fuel pump arrangement.
The Holden clutch is interesting.... When I was getting a clutch built for my SVX conversion (240hp/308Nm in a 1400kg bus) I enquired about building something like this.... I was told it would be too expensive to do and wouldn't be worth the effort. The specialist advised that I have a standard (225mm ø ? WBX FW anyway!!) SACHS plate modded by moving the pivot point of the tongues which would give me around a 35% increase in clutch pressure (which should not cause any problems for the stock clutch slave) and the disc is a 4 puck job that was built around a stock sprung centre.... The whole box and dice cost me 600 bux.

What you think?

Personally I think your set-up would be better and cheaper to replace the clutch when parts wear out!.... But what sort of pedal and slave pressure (and slave dia) is required to make your system work?

[ Edited on 8-3-2006 by humpty ]

[ Edited on 8-3-2006 by humpty ]

This design, with a floating shoe is a little noisy for daily use, but a conventional style clutch,
like later beetles have, can use the same diafragm and pivot diameter and produce similar results.
The car is currently using a cable to actuate it and is not heavy to use compared to the old style
Kennedy type deal which requires the pedal force to pull the shoe away from the disc,
(against the clamp pressure.)
The word "pivot" is a bit of a bump steer in that it actually refers to the peaked ring behind
the shoe,
that the diafragm acts on. So changing the diameter of this has no effect on the pedal
pressure, but does change the clamp pressure, and release distance required.
I am rambling a bit, but to answer some of your questions, your deal for 600 dollars sounds fair,
and somethig like my set-up can be bought in Australia for a bit over 1300 dollars (but in aluminium),
from Direct Clutch Service here in Brisbane. He helped me set up mine.
After seeing my mates Volksy transmission synchros struggling with large clutch discs,
I would never use any larger disc than 200mm.
That being said there are many people using what you have without trouble.

Well here it is all bolted in and running.
But unfortunately after tryning to get the mixtures and timing sorted,
I have run into some internal problems that will stop me using thiss engine at the Mini-Jam in two weeks.

I will detail all the carnage in the build-up post else where.

Damn Dave...what's up?:o

Have a look on page two of the "Pauter build-up" post.