Now that I have my new wheels fitted and the front beam narrowed,
(to put the front tyres back to where they should be),

It is time to re-set the rear suspension.



[ Edited on 14-8-2006 by dangerous ]

I have some smaller diameter tyres that will increase my RPM thru the finish by 500.
So to restore the ride height, I will nead to raise the car by about 20mm.

This will need a change of about 3 degrees in spring plate angle.

To do this, I needed to go 4 splines UP on the car, and 4 spines down on the spring plate.

These spring plates are stock modified swing axle ones to suit the short tortion bars.
Tortion bars are 30mm Sway-Away.

All up it took less than 2 hours to do, so this is why I dont have adjustable spring plates.
As you can see this car is no show piece, but it does the job.

Also on the list of jobs is to adjust the clutch tention up, and to double check the oil pump holes alignment, before a test and tune on the 30th of Aug.
The old RPM thru the finish was 6600 to 6700rpm, and the power peak was higher than this. So now it will be 7200. Better, but I am hoping to find more power when I run next.
Rod (48IDA) has offered me some new tall front runners which I have also fitted...
I love barter exchange, now I can buy food for next week.

[ Edited on 14-8-2006 by dangerous ]

Dave

Show us a pic of the finished stance.! I might have to come and watch your next run at the T&T.

10's aren't far away now...??

Those tens are about .44 seconds away...miles in dragracing.
But, a tenth here and there, plus some more fuel system tuning....
I might back it out tomorrow and wipe off the finger prints to check the stance,
but it wont look that good till I replace the Guards,
but that wont stop the car running.

[ Edited on 14-8-2006 by dangerous ]

Man I like those wheels,really looks good Dave

thanks for the pics dave , cant wait to see you guys run at warrick :thumb

Well, Clutch was slipping, so pulled engine and added .020 preload.
Oil pump was cool, but port matched the inlet anyhow.
New tyres all round.
Suspension heights and alignment is done.
Gave it a tub, and now just to charge the battery, and a fresh load of 25w50 oil.

lookin sweet Dave,should handle real well with those tires

Lookin good Dave.

What are your thoughts on running a stinger for the Warwick weekend. The new exhaust I put on the KG to make it quieter for Mini Blup58 to go for drives has really effect the power (or at least it feels like that)

Was pretty keen to run a stinger for the Warick Weekend (drive out with normal muffler, un bolt current,bolt on stinger run car etc)

What are your thoughts, are they expensive or hard to come by??

Cheers
Brad

Pagey might have one lying around, depending on the flange size, but....
The theory books say that a straight piece of tube about 400mm long
will do the same job, but it will sound different to a stinger.
This of corse depends on the outlet size at the collector, mine is 3" OD tube.

hey dave if i bring the drb taipan what catergory would i go in ?

Hey Dave,
I know that you should never ask for a prediction but do you think that the tyres are good for a tenth or so over the 1/8th?
What is the best with the 1/4 combo?

Hi Brad,
There are all sorts of theories related to timed pulses that reverberate(?)
back up the pipe due to the pressure drop, as the gasses are finally out in the open.
Stingers generally have a gradual expansion, but the sudden effect of a straight pipe can do as much good.
The length is a factor that needs to be optimised for every different combo, and required driving style,
but reality is, that as long as the gasses are clear of the y and your pipe is large enough(must start at the same size as what is in your collector), it will do the job.
I would guess that a 300mm length would be a minimum required.
If you wanted to, you could use a dyno to optimise the length, but that is prob not a priority in engine tuning.
Jetting would be more of a priority if you are going to a dyno.
Any exhaust shop can weld on a piece of straight to a flange if you make a sample from cardboard.
Just make sure that it will clear your rear body work, and bumper(you may need a slight bend or kink)
Do you have a join in the pipe from you flange to your muffler?
If so you can just disconnect the muff at that point.

[ Edited on 3-9-2006 by dangerous ]

I have weighed everything except the beam scraps(4" narrower, and all the stops and brackets)
And the wheels and tyres are 20kg lighter.

Hey Dave,
20 kg is alot,especially at the wheels,saves wear and tear on the drive train and will make a differance in E/T.
Was talking to a friend the other day,he mentioned to me that I needed to bob the bottom of my rear fenders and apron,says it will gain me 5-6mph in the 1/4.Said that air under vehicle is caught on the rears and acts as a drag,thought I would bounce the idea off you. Mike

Hep, did tappets , retuned carbs (fuel mixtures ),clean msd cap, cleaned fuel filter (lots of crap).Next job 2step switch on steering wheel .Then jobs on choptop.

[ Edited on 18-8-2006 by Dak-A-Tak ]

Not trying to butt in ,but a better place for 2 step switch is on the clutch pedal,when you put pedal down to pedal stop will activate your switch( I also added a line lock to same switch to hold you on the starting line).When you release the clutch pedal the switch is released and releases rpms and brakes.works real good and will make you more consistant on tree.Just a suggestion, Mike

G'day Mike, would such a switch work (in behind clutch pedal) in the case whereby you preload the tranny slightly (ie when the clutch pedal is released slightly just to 'balance point'?) Forgive my ignorance, I'm new to this game but am keen to learn! I understand in a true drag application you probably just side step the clutch and jump off the line, but had heard some people preload to save some strain on the tranny (correct me if I am wrong). Alan

Hey Alan,
I just recieved my first copy of VW MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA (which is fantastic by the way) read through it ,found your article,excellent car.I would not recommend the setup on a street car unless it is beefed up to race specs. I hope you all have fun, Mike

[ Edited on 19-8-2006 by dragvw2180 ]

Cheers for that Mike, I figured it would be for a race-only application - thanks for confirming it!

Getting very pumped for the Warwick weekend now.

Managed to catch up with Pete last weekend and he kindly donated an old stinger (reminds me I need to return your Chrome Scat one Pete - I'll bring it to Willowbank for the test and tune)

The old flange need to be cut away but I have a new one now just need to reweld at correct angles etc.

Picture of mock up...

yeah! cranky and noisy.

Test ran again tonight.
Three runs.
13.2@111.86 clutch slipped bad (1.65 sixty foot) out of the hole and then missed 2nd gear twice.

Thought that was going to be the end of the night but the clutch came good
and the second run I bogged the start!! 11.81@115.86 with a shocking 1.757 short time.
The MPH shows that the weight reduction has payed off.
It went just over 7200rpm in 4th gear with the smaller 26" tyre.

Last run was within a tenth of my best@11.51 and a best ever speed of 116.19 and 7250rpm.
Car is totally different to drive with all the changes.
Last 60 foot time was OK at 1.566, but I had lost a tenth by the time I got to the 330ft marker.
More homework I guess.

I decided to leave the tune up as was last time to get a better understanding of the changes
that I had made. So at the jamboree I will start to tinker some more with the fuel system.

Special thanks to Pagey for short notice crew-help whilst he was still crook with a tummy bug, and Rod (RAZ34),
and to Andrew(Stanley) for coming out to take some photos and support the Volksy

[ Edited on 3-9-2006 by dangerous ]

[ Edited on 3-9-2006 by dangerous ]

My support must have done some good.....