Hi guys
A few questions, hopefully someone might be able to help:
I now have a 2nd hand turbo and I am trying to figure out how to position it behind the rear apron however it appears I can't rotate the intake
housing due to the internal wastegate position.
Also the internal gate is in this exhaust housing rather than the turbine housing like others I've seen....this will mean I'll have to somehow
modify the current exhaust - right?
1) Are these exhaust housings typically cast iron or cast steel?
2) Do you think it could be modified (either cut and turned, or cut just after the O2 bung so a straight joint could be welded on)?
3) Is this O2 bung of any use (considering I'll be going EFI...just not finalised on which ECU yet)?
Here is the turbo:
If I can't rotate the cold side in comparison the hot, this is the only feasible way to position it as I see it currently...
You may want to replace the cast iron exhaust manifold with a plate of steel,blocks off the internal wastegate hole and provides a flange to weld a tail pipe to. Mike
If I went down this route Mike, I would just run an external wastegate right?
The other option (if I retained the cast exhaust) which was suggested by humpty would be to unbolt the wastegate from the intake housing boss itself,
and fabricate a L-bracket that could be bolted to the housing bolts (rather than the boss).
Considering I am trying to build this thing on the tightest budget (within reason), sticking with an internal wastegate will save a few
pennies.....but I guess time will tell.
Yep I have done that heaps of times it works well. just put the housings were they work best and worry about making a bracket later.
How much boost are you planning? It gets hard to control an internal gate nicely, especially when the housing is small. An external is a nicer option
but does cost.
I think boost will be limited to around 10lbs max - I don't think the stock rods (esp if I keep the stock rod bolts) will handle any more!
Keep that sucker out of detonation and those rods will handle a lot of HP Alan.
I made 275(+BLOWER DRIVE LOSS) from my 1775cc engine with stock type one rods.
But if I ran it a little lean and torched a plug... bendy time.
This was with 28psi manifold pressure.
Remember that boost is not a good way to rate engine parts strength.
Torque is best. It is directly related to BMEP. (basically cylinder pressure)
EG a stock 2lt type 4 with 20psi MANIFOLD PRESSURE,
may make less CYLINDER PRESSURE than a big cam and ported 2lt with 10 psi.
Mate I would turn it around and have the actuator and internal wastegate at the bottom,
You can then have your intake under the guard and get fresh air and run your ex under the rear apron.
You should be able to rotate bith sides just loosen off all the bolts and twist. It is a tight fit and was very tight on my turbo
T54
Like boostn said. Put it where you want it to go and it fits best and make the brackets to suit. I had to rotate the housings and make my own brackets for the wastegate on the TAT turbo. I was originally reluctant to do it but in hind sight it was the best option.
Sounds good guys - looks like that might be the best option. Will keep you updated.
Alan
With my brother's car we went straight to an external waste gate that way we could mount everything where ever we needed to. Added plus is exhaust
comes off the turbo and has about 350mm of pipe to the super trap at the back of the car. Wastegate has it's own dump just inside the rear beaver
panel.
Should sound interesting.....
Question on turbo locations! I recently watched a car show called "2 guys garage" on the foxtel How to Channel. They installed a turbo set up on a
Camaro that was located at the back end of the car where the muffler usually sits. The turbo charge was pushed back to the front (engine) via large
dia tube about 4mtrs long.
The benefits of this set up was a major reduction in heat on the turbo as the exhaust gases were a lot cooler at the muffler end. The distance from
engine to turbo wasnt a prob as the gas velocity was the same.
Oil was plumbed into the turbo by a long oil line and a scavenge pump use to return the oil back to the engine sump.
They stated that there was hardly any lag due to the lenght of the inlet tube due to the waste gate?? They dyonoed the motor and it was making good
power.
Any one else seen a turbo set uplike this?? Seems like a good option for a VW with no space and needing to keep heat down to a minimum??
It can all fit you just have to think about it, mine has quite a bit of room around it and I just bought a really nice magnaflow muffler thats inlet
and outlet are on the same end, 2 1/2" and makes my exhaust only a foot and half long, no time to get really hot and will tuck up under the guard
even with big drag slicks.
Alan, i have posted the latest pics and how it fits on my members rides. you have room, everything just has to have a place.
Heath
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I think the idea behind them is that they are a "bolt on" upgrade for larger V engines rather then having to fart about with turbo manifolds etc in a small engine bay. From what I have heard they are ok but won't make much over 8psi. There is a lot of BS hype with these systems too they claim that the long intake pipe gives an intercooling “effect” the only intercooling like property that I can think this would give is slower response and pressure drop :P
Cheers for the input guys. I had a play around and rotated the housings but until I get the new gearbox built and bolted in, and the engine in place,
I won't finalise the position of the housings relative to eachother.
So hopefully in a month or two I'll be able to start the plumbing!
Out of interest Das what is the turbo from?
Also, why a turbo and not a supercharger? Thinking from my barstool a supercharger would prob be better for street driving due to torque. Turbo for
the strip as it does not sap power and is all top end?
I believe the turbo was from a Nissan 300zx (not sure if it was the twin turbo model or not).
A big factor in my decision was cost - much cheaper for me to go down the road of turbo rather than supercharger.
Also I just wanted the ultra-cool factor of "vvvvrrrrrrooooooooommmmmm......WHOOOOOSHHHHHH........ vvvvrrrrrooooooooommmm.....WHOOOOOSH!" etc.
PS Just kidding about that last part
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But if the engine is of a larger capacity and the pipes are short enough then lag will be minimual. don't forget the choice of cam grind will also drastically effect how the engine will deliver it's power too.
Umm think about it a bit further M8
If its a T3, its a big one, designed for a high revving 3000cc V6
Sure, you can run a 750 Hp T66 on a motorcycle if you want but how much lag do you want??? I like to produce gobs of power with little lag and fast
spooling.
The idea of standing on the pedal and count...1...2...3..4.. pssssstt "oh shit out of revs and she aint spooled up yet is a total pain. Believe
me!
This presumes it is the T3 of the single turbo engine.
L8tr
E
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Thanks tassupervee - I am pretty sure it is off the 3L 300zx....I think I'll run it as is for now (lack of funds).....depending on how it runs and
what sort of $ I have down the track, I may even look at a new garret ball bearing smaller T3.
I guess when budget is a restricting factor, you need to compromise.
Stanley.....I'm looking forward to the turbo whine - but I think I will go the "stealth" blow off valve - I'm just not a huge fan of the
"PSSSSCHHHH" (hard to write what it sounds like!) sounds from some of the ricers!
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I'll try and get another pic - hopefully the mystery can then be solved
I climbed around under the Fj20et today (T3) and im almost certain that turbo you have is a T3. T3' are not the most modern bit of gear and off a 200
Kw 3 litre, M8, youll hate it, particularly if you set it up as a pull thru and you will learn to hate the lag.
I would confirm exactly what it is, unload it and find yourself a T25 or even a T2.
If its off a Vg30det then it will have a ceramic exhaust wheel. If its off a VG30de, it will have a steel exhaust wheel.
I have never paid more than 100 dollars each for the 5 x To2s & T2's I have and the T25 I recently bought was only 140 dollars.
L8tr
E