I have found is that the Unifilters (green foamon the 48 IDA carbs are really, really restrictive and the difference in performance between on and off is significant, especially after 3500rpm.... Do you have any suggestions?

I'm not a big fan of decklid stand offs but if I have to I will.

rocket sell filters for ida's,but there are not cheap.i have a set of 5inch talls.not much power drop at all .socks robbed about 10 atws.

Gday dude, when i ran my 1916 on the dyno i found oiled socks on my 48IDAs robbed 4 hp at the wheels. Trevor the dyno operator suggested running them dry.

Cheers Col

Mine are dry but I have shortened them by rolling the bottom edge up so there is only 25mm from the top of the venturi to the top of the inside of the filter.

Not to mention they don't look so good.... attached is a picture of the engine without the filters

I have yet to run my engine on the dyno, but i think i might try it with and without. though for most events i would have to run with filters as they are dirt

I love your engine bay.

I'd get nervous not running the weber or dellorto style air cleaners on the street. I notice fuel residue on my carb tops from the fuel vapour stand off. I imagine that would end up on the body work or soaking the socks with fuel. I've seen socks ignited before by a carb backfire.

I think some of the yanks run mesh on their IDAs to stop big bits falling in but that looks restrictive too.

So how does your besat feel with the new engine? Has the sound deadening made much difference? I suppose you wouldn't know with the racket IDAs make. At least its a good racket.

CT

Hi

That engine bay looks so beautiful, it would be shame to spoil it with oily Uni filters. The oil on your Uni filters is actually a flame retardant.

Have your thought about doing something like this, it would also cut down induction noise.

Steve

is it suffering from air starvation full stop????.............

your bootlid is louvered from memory tho?

Yes, boot lid is louvered and I have stood the lid off at the bottom.

At about 3500rpm the engine starts to feel sluggish and from there it seems to stumble, doesn't matter which gear you are in 1st, 2nd, 3rd.... not sure about 4th as thats highway stuff

nice engines 1303steve but the less I can have in the engine bay the better.... style vs performance, never shall the two shall meet

Al, are you sure it only feels sluggish above 3500 rpm 'with' air filters and ok w/o?

Matt, I will give it another try with and without filters. The reason I say this is because I took it for a quick run without them and it was crisp and quick all the way throught the rev range then I came home put them on for a longer run and only just around the corner they felt like the engine was starving like a sort of flat spot from about 3500 and up and a little rough like they were out of tune. I pulled over and took off the filters and it was crisp again. I didn't tun the engine off and drove the engine harder than I did when I left home....

What are you running as filters? Pictures??

Thanks Matt

Does sound like the filters, but maybe proove it again with a few more miles , just to rule out any temperature issues. I haven't run any filters in the beetle as it is only a temporary fit into Simon's beetle. Can't cut the body at all, but the IDA's look too cool to cover with filters anyhow. I do have K&N's but no room to fit easily. Can post photos of these if you want. You said you pulled the socks way down. You didn't obstruct the jet stacks? remember these need air that also should be filtered, not to mention fuel bowl vent. Chuck the filters, just freshen the engine more often.

Al, by the way, your engine bay looks outstanding.

I have run both open stacks and the ACE K and N filter set up. I just went from a 200 to a 210 air correction with the filters on, it was running rich in the top end. Falling over from 3500 I would try and lean out the mains a bit first.

I have just replaced the F7's with F11's and the stumble from idle to progression seems worse... the mixtures have been checked and they are good. I will have to check the valves on cylinder three as the mixture screw made no difference on that cylinder???

I have found that I was putting the unifilters on incorrectly by rolling up the bottom edge and the central tube was being blocked by the inside of the filter element...doh

Seems like the air/fuel mixtures need to be checked to see what's going on.... I also read that maybe my ignition timing should be advanced to ~11 at idle due to the 48IDA's... this would make the advance at max ~32.... currently I have it at 7 degrees

Thanks for the input guys..