Hi,

Just after some ideas on removing weight from my 69 bug. Right now it weighs in 810kg, although i remove the pass seat and lower back seat for racing.

With my taller 1st gear and limited power the car was bogging really bad at Warwick. i was thinking one option was to make it lighter. I was at 6500 on 2 step.

So, any ideas for cutting, drilling, removing, changing etc. The car is still rego`d but i very rarely drive it so no concern for creature comforts.

I will start by changing the steel wheels for some lightweight rims. I guess any saving is a good thing.

Oh, and before you mention Jenny craig - i`m 77kg.

Cheers, Keith

I dont know how i made this a poll!

Plastic rear windows?
What sort of clutch are you running of curiosity?

Dont worry about the weight or gearing dude,
just leave with more rpm,
or use less clutch clamp pressure.

That is not heavy!(same as mine he-he)

There's not really much weight to shed from a Beetle. Sound deadening, carpet, rear seat and so forth will only save you a small amount. I stripped mine all out and weighed them, I think the complete removal of carpet and insulation was worth less than 20kg. Not worth it unless the car is strictly track only I don't think. The rear seat is something like 15 kg-ish each for the back and base, and the passenger seat is about 15kg-ish as well.

Hi Keith

Sorry we missed you running up at Warwick

Maybe a smaller/lighter fuel tank, there is a heap of weight in the doors, getting them light is a serious exercise, like perspex windows, no winders or even fibreglass doors.

Steve

remove half the bolts holding your guards on(dangerous's idea) plastic headlights, aluminium pan to body bolts (motor bike racing suppliers), remove all extra interior brackets, light weight racing seat, speedholes speedholes speedholes!!!!!!!

Read this thread

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?PHPSESSID=3a567ce6bb64fe638d4910db6696a91...

Guys,

Thanks for the replies. That article on the Cal look lounge is definitely a read. Those guys are pretty anal about excess weight.

Owen, the clutch set up i use is stock disc with a "stage 2" plate.

Dave, i tried to leave at 7k but broke the fabricated 091-930 drive flange. Was my fault, not designed very well. I have since fitted new ones. Just need to get some rims and will head out and try more rpm. I haven`t run the gas yet so not sure on my clutch set-up.

Hey Steve, no sweat. Catch up one day.

Think i`ll go have a play in the shed.

Thanks again, Keith

I found with my last engine that 7100 was the minimum I could leave without bad bogging
and so I ended up with 7300.
At good tracks I upped that to 7500 which is my starting point at any event.

I did leave at 8400 a couple of times, (accidentally mu top RPM limit)
but at that point the clutch needed to be in pretty good shape, and also the track.
One run it ran 1.44 sixty and the next it dropped back to 1.50.
...so not very consistent.

By comparison at Gunnedah i dropped it down to 6100 to reduce spin, and it was still too much.
At Warwick in 2007(?) it wheel spun on the Saturday with 6600,
but on Sunday, with improved conditions, bogged with the 7000 or less.

It is sometimes hard to get my brain around the fact
that the higher RPM can actually be less harsh on drive train than less,
but with the higher rpm comes a little more clutch or tyre slip, and all is good.

And also you loose a lot less ET in the sixty with some slip, ( half to one tenth)
than you ever will with a bog.(3 to 5 tenths)

Thanks for the detailed explanation Dave. I guess more rpm it is.

Warick was only the 2nd time i have ever run slicks, so it`s all a learning curve for me. My best 60 was 1.79 when i left at 6500 which i don`t think is so good. Although it was getting lower with the rpm increases.

Looks like i need alot of practice. Better get out to the track and give it what for.

Cheers, Keith

I think there is alot more to this , then just rpm . Rpm is good when car works or wheellie bars set low acting as travel stop (but other problems can show up ).
Looking at how easy your car wanted to wheelstand when slicks fitted , means more tuning needed at getting car to spin the tyres but to move forward as well . Both ends of the car reacting , adds up to how car performs on the track .
There is big differents between a car with wheelybars and one with out .
Keith , can you give us a run down on your suspension set up .

gutting the weight is good but as Pete says you were wheel standing too easy so it was hooking up

rear suspension and a wheelie bar to stop you going up will help you have heaps of power

Pete,

Front suspension adjusters plus the cheap 3 way shocks set on 90/10. Standard bar

Rear 28mm long bars, had type 3 or bus stops. Not sure as i borrowed them on the day. Non adjustable spring plates, set with very little preload. If i added any more it would sit on the bottom stops. Poly bushes, 3 way shock again set full "hard" on rebound.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Keith

Hit the juice!

Wow ! 365 read but not much help . Keith , as you want to keep your car a street car . The weight savings that you are talking about are simple and good but you don't have lose heaps .
Front end sounds good but front shocks may need to reajust back to 30/70 to slow down rollback travel ,even run car with lots of fuel in tank to help keep nose down . Even travel straps may help , that way you can ajust the amount front lifts ,to speed up reaction at rear .Less up travel stops front winding up and then yanking up front wheels .Make sure front arms travel up and down easy too .

Rear 28 torsion bars are big ,with mild engine power it is hard to keep them twisted or working carmly as car moves off start and in to second gear . More rev's help ( 7200rpm on take off for Rod R at warwick and not dumping clutch) to hold down torsion bars but need to get wheels speed happening ( little spin ) . Check rear down travel to , make sure car is't smacking down on bump stops ,which will unload tyres and unload torsion bars to . With adjustable shocks to control squat and rebound most don't use bump stops at all . Uneven control will kill tranny very quick .
As said above more rpm will hold rear down longer (tricking car that you have more power)or turn on nitrous too !

Tyre pressure : we run around 16psi to 22psi but most times start of at 18psi then work from there . Some tyre's do boldge to much on a narrow rim. I like same size rim or just a little under tyre (half size) to keep foot print wide and side wall tall and ferm.
A 6inch or 6w (half size) to a 7inch is plenty slick to use . With good grip I take off at 7600rpm with car squatting at half travel on shock .
Sorry about spelling ! guys .

Ok guys,

plan is to remove all excess fat from vehicle then spend time at track making one adjustment at a time to see how car reacts.

Pete, will check these things you mentioned.

I plan on spraying the engine early in the new year. Need to buy myself a controller for chrissy.

On a side note, i want to get some 6" rear rims similar to erco. Does anyone know what offset i need for irs rear end to clear guards with 6" slick.

Regards, Keith