As you know I've been modifying vw auto's 1600 1800(003) and 2L kombi (010) for a while, and now in to modifying torque converters.

Bec's type3 13b turbo 010 auto

This is the latest one I've made to try and leave the start line with more rpm to alow the turbo to spool and take off quicker helping the 60ft times.
Left stock vw, Right custom made







Standard vw converter diameter 9 3/4"
this one 8.5"
Stall speed (when stationary apply foot brake and hand brake, or on trans brake, then accelerate till the car wants to move or turn the tyres, at this RPM)
This one is around 4000rpm, and lights the tyres at 4300.

Whens 1/4 mile testing time?

Good stuff Aaron-what address do I need to put on my convertor to get it underway for the mods.????I ordered a Haynes Vanagon workshop manual from the States 3 weeks ago-it was supposed to have a full break down of the 003 and 010 autos - arrived yesterday, it's only got how to remove and replace the trans.I will try again to see if I can find something.Where are you getting all your repair stuff-clutches,O rings etc? I am keen to get stuck into mine.Keep up the great work you are doing pioneering the autos.

1/4 testing will be after i put some raybestos clutches in, insted of 2nd handy's, a kevlar brake band, pump drive and trans brake.
Alsow now i'm happy with the converter i'll take it apart and nitrite the center of the stator (sprag) and balance the turbine and the hole case.

[Good stuff Aaron-what address do I need to put on my convertor to get it underway for the mods.????]

Hi Greg, no worries mate!!!
Would be good to see when your engines torque curve starts, to know what o/a size and fin angle to use.
I have one for you to try, but would be best to tune it with a stock converter to achive power down low so when a modified conv is used it comes on stall and boost quicker.

Converter shops sharge around $1500-$2500 if you want a high stall converter. This is because down sizing to a different converter takes a lot of time to change the input spigot, all the splines x3, make it the right height, make the end float right, add needle rollers x3, mount the ring gear (vw only) furnace braze the fins and then balance every thing.

I chose the pump section which was already brazed (i think mazda 323)

on the right, also shallower

Brazed


cut the vw center out


Weld it in to the new smaller pump




machine it down and add a thrust shim for the bearing and to get the right height for the stator fins to pump fins.

The stator is in the centre of the converter and redirects the fluid into to the centre of the pump, the pump is the top or gearbox side of the converter and moves at engine speed ( attached to the flex plate). It sucks in the fluid and forces it out the outer fins of the pump. The fluid is then pushed in to the outer fins of the turbine ( conected to the g/box via the input/turbine shaft).
The turbine catches the fluid from the pump when you excelerate, and when theres enough pressure against the turbine fins the turbine will start to move (moving the car).
From the turbine, fluid is directed in to the back of the stator which has fins too. The stator is mounted to the g/box on a spline with a sprag (one way clutch). The stator stays stationary with fluid pushing from behind but on the front angle of the fins, as the turbine increases speed the fluid starts to hit on the back side of the fins which starts moving the stator the same directionas the turbine and pump. (conv's are never totaly locked up, unless a chutch is added.
While the stator is stationary and pump and the turbine are turning (car slowly moving), this is when torque is multiplied by up to 2.5times.

The stator and turbine are out of another converter again, make,???? The turbine was built stronger and held mor fluid. The sprag was a closer to the thickness to the vw one (26mm) then i machined it down further to make room for the needle rollers.
Bushes are used in vw conv's untill about 1985 where they used only one bearing between the stator and pump.
I put one under the turbine and also turb to stator, 3 in total. With pressure pushing down on the turbine from the pump ,the bearing under it helps with stall as well.


Changing the centre in the sprag to vw

stock vw below on left, modified on right



Machining for the bearings

I should have mentioned that YOU ARE ALWAYS CHECKING TOTAL HIGHT, END FLOAT AND FIN CLEARANCE!!!!!!!


The turbine, putting the vw spline in the smaller tubine
vw left



had to pack the spline up with a shim i made. The welds looks messy with add-ons, but i needed the height.


Turbine to stator clearance

The base which has to be able to bolt to the flex plate, also have to put the spline for the automatic trans pump (not to be sistaken for the conv pump)
vw right


cut the centre out of the small conv and make a step for the new centre to sit in




same for the vw base but step the centre, (CHECKING O/A HEIGHT)








make room for another bearing

And weld using a big bearing underneath to turn it slowly.
Weld some feet on it using the flex plate by locating it on the spigot (Check HEIGHT)






And machine


turn a step in the pump to set up end float with stator, bearings and turbine inside.




And weld using a big bearing

Last thing is to mount the ring gear. I used the leftover vw base, works a treat.





step the outer edge for the gear




Tight fit, tap it on




not much left of the orignal base


Set at right height and weld



After all that its time to test.
From here you can change the stall speed by about 600-800 rpm either way depending on engine caricteristics, some people find it easer to change the cam.

Mabe an auto write up should follow??
happy days!!!!!!!

Awesome stuff mate!! Work of art and I'm guessing many hours of mathmatical sums LOL.

BTW that lathe looks somewhat familiar!! Good to see it getting a good work out!!

Yep lots of sums, and its great to have a lend of a late, thanks Troy.
Bought some good cutters which make the late work way less and speeds up the process.

Should put an auto in your bus Brendon.

"Turbo Dude" Thats an awesome story and good pics.Just bought a repair manual from the States-for the 003 and 010 auto transmissions only.7 to 14 days to arrive.

Nice lathe work dude.
Not bad for a wood guy!

timber blokes make the best machinist's as you cant weld wood!!!!! goes back to tho old adage "measure fifty times cut once"

Fantastic post!!! I never really understood the workings of a convertor, I just bought convertors from Dominator with various stall speeds and whacked them in, thanks for the insight cheers Frank

Wow, you really know your stuff

And I was going to ask if this was your business or just the home garage, great work either way. Makes me realise even though I am an old mechanic, I know nothing

Kev

Quote:

Makes me realise even though I am an old mechanic, I know nothing Kev

Quote:

Quote: Originally posted by nbturbo Makes me realise even though I am an old mechanic, I know nothing Kev Not true Camo-you know enough to know what he is doing is good shit.

Keep it up and we will all be using autos soon.

Funny thing is that I was never a fan of lazy autos, but since i've been playing with them i'm a changed man.

Might find one in a 13bt notch.

Thanks a lot for that write up.
Well done!

A lot of 090/010 auto talks on this thread:
http://www.cal-look.com/forum/vw-drag-racing/vanagon-automatic-in-a-race-car/ 

I'm getting back into dak-dak's after a long lay-off, and I thought an auto would be the go for a street-strip (a mild one) ride. After spending weeks frowning and getting headaches, your write-ups here are the best by a long shot. Thanks very much man.

One more thing you might not have considered for launch boost (it's a bike thing really, although a few Super Sedans and Modifieds are starting to use it over here at the Motorplex now too), is a 2-step. If you set the launch revs a bit below your stall speed, then (if you have EFI) program in extra fuel by using an extra input to the ECU when the 2-step is on, you get steady launch revs, a mild stutter through the exhaust because the 2-step is ignition controlled, which with the extra fuel will give an anti-lag effect for full boost on the launch limiter at the line.

That should shoot the thing out of the hole OK........

You wouldn't happen to have a spare Type 3 auto lying around would you?

20bkombi..

Have you done any testing on the new convertor yet?? L


Wayne

I think he has Wayne, but cooked some clutches again.
Untill then, it was working very well from the video that I saw!
When iot comes out again i think Aaron was planning to get the unit balanced.
Welcome to the forum by the way!

dangerous.

Does his car have a trans brake?? From the videos it does not look like he has one. The car does not move well of the line. Do you no any of his 60' times??

Wayne

Quote:

You wouldn't happen to have a spare Type 3 auto lying around would you?

What trans do you use?? I have a reverce pattern manual value body for a bus trans. If you are interested let me know..

Wayne