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Getting started
ragged - February 23rd, 2011 at 11:19 AM

Ok. I've been to Portland as a spectator and now I want to be a part of it.
I've have searched on the ANDRA website for a rule book to no avail.
The car will never be street registered, and for starters I just want to get a car on the track, with all the safety gear. My intentions are to keep it simple to start.
I have a 58 bug and need specs for a roll cage and info on classes.
Thanks Dave


hypo-vw - February 23rd, 2011 at 11:40 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by ragged
I have a 58 bug and need specs for a roll cage and info on classes.


try this link to the sport compact drag racing series and click on race classes for specifications

http://www.jamboree.com.au/raceclasses/street289/ 

and try this link for general specifications / requirements

http://www.jamboree.com.au/pdfs/2009%20SCG%20General%20Regs.pdf 


ian.mezz - February 23rd, 2011 at 12:00 PM

mate all that you need is a car.:blush:
current spec helmet, long cotton pants and shirt and good leather shoes.
try it to see if you like it.:blush:
dont spend lots of money on a 5 year build only to find out its not your cup of tea.


ragged - February 23rd, 2011 at 08:35 PM

Thanks Wayne. That's what I was looking for.
In SA to register a LHD the car is required to be stock standard and in immacculate condition. Basically they don't want LHD cars on the roads over here, especially the American modified muscle cars, which is the reason for the tough rules.
I have a 58 LHD beetle that has had the front cut off from half way through the fuel tank. Just wants a one piece front end. $450
I can get a roll cage fitted (cams approved), already have a racing seat, set of centre lines, 2180 that was out of an offroad buggy (been in pieces since 1986), Hilborn fuel injection manifolds (ex speedway) and a stick shift floor pan that has sat idle since 1985. I have a helper who has methenol experience from speed way days.
I intend to get the roll cage welded to the body, so I can easily change floor pans if plans change. All I need is fuel cell, fuel pump, injector nozzles, seatbelts and gearbox?, Spool? axles, cvs etc. I'm interested in building a strong gearbox straight up, don't want to spend too much time in the pits or packing up early. Plan is to be safe and reliable. I hope to remain motivated and have it ready to run within six months.


hypo-vw - February 23rd, 2011 at 08:53 PM

if your bug is to be used for drag racing only David , have you considered leaving it swing axle . My turbo oval is still swing axle , Chris Boltons' turbo vee is still swing axle and my championship winning hillclimb sports sedan is still swing axle .
a very cheap and strong option in my opinion....and the early pans weigh far less than the stick-shift and IRS pans


ragged - February 23rd, 2011 at 09:35 PM

Most of my experience is from off road buggies in the eighties, when they used to be VW based. Got plenty of experience rebuilding gearboxes. I started off thinking keep it simple ie swing axle. Then I thought, irs, carry a spare gearbox. Easier to change without upsetting rear wheel alignment if it breaks. My thoughts are to run a spool with quality axles.
Any advice is really welcome, I don't mind spending the money on a gearbox, it just needs to be reliable. I have a theory, spend the money on the right bits = more play time!
Thanks Dave


too cranky - February 24th, 2011 at 06:22 AM

Dave

You can get hold of the ANDRA rule book from the ANDRA Head office. I think its $25 and would be a worthy investment as that is what your car will be checked against in scrutineering at events. The Jamboree rules do refer to the rule book also include rules of their own if you are planning on competing in the Jamboree events.

The ANDRA book gives you all the relevant details about roll cages and will guide you for the class you are considering running.

All the best for the build
Darren


matberry - February 24th, 2011 at 07:54 AM

Go for it !

With drag racing, you'll find more advantages with 'at track tuneability' with swing axle. They are a lighter combo, easier R&R when it really counts (sat night at a track somewhere) and less expensive to build and definately stronger from the diff onwards.