I'm buying 2, 12inch subs for the rear of my bug an a fosgate amp, just curious what kind of setup should i run for front speakers? im not sure on unit yet, my interiors not in my bug yet either. only reason im buyin the speakers an amp is my friend has new 12's an a new amp hes goin to sell me all for 180 bucks.reason hes selling them to me is he had 4 12inch subs in his celica an it was to much for him.

thats still a lotta room...2times 12"....thats one too many in my opinion... but go for it!
...I'd just have one...leave some room for a pair of mids in back and a pair of tweeties upfront... depends on Budget...
check out http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/ 

well the 12's both can hold up to 1200 each but the amp is 360x2, plus im not pushing them to there limit...but what would i want to use up front, I was thinkin maybe a pair of 4 way or 3 way 6inch speakers...i donno a whole lot bout stereos. :bounce:

join http://www.caraudioaustralia.com.au  - but leave yer wallet behind...Das Dubber put me onto this ... top site and some really good advice.

ditto on the agreeance... If budget is a consideration... go some 6by9's...with 5ways... look at RMS rating... cos the peak power is not a good indication...... Jaycar sell a good range of kevlars, which are all excellent.... just try and cover your mid and high range.... they sell these incy 40wrms tweeters for a couple a bucks each...... its a bulk deal they got...they are seriously decent little tweeters..... do you have another amp to run the rest of it? or are you gonna run it from the head unit?....

If you are keen to keep the two subs hooked up to the amp, I've gotta 4channel jaycar amp that would be perfect to go with it... $100plus postage ...its been checked out, only a few months old..... lost receipt so no warranty... but a top little amp...???

[ Edited on 11-5-2006 by Scarlet ]

i got some 2 x 12'' subs at home.
got em free from a friend.

Apparently they need the cones replaced, but still make doof doof and work. (just make the thumping or rumble, nothing of high detail. like a muffled noise.

I plan to fit em in the bug. only places i can think of is under the rear seats or on a board over the rear storage compartment.

2 x 6'' subs are great.

by the way, i second Scarlet.

well I was thinkin maybe gettin the side kick panel kits for the front an buy som 6 1/2 inch 3 way speakers to go in them, i found some that push 280 watts each....an the 12's I got an amp for them its a 2 way, an I guess I'll need an amp for the front speakers...hopefully a bugs windows can take the bass

Good luck with trying to build a box big enough to get decent sound out of the 2 x 12"'s and still have a back seat...... I tried this once with my 67 bug, and just couldnt make the box fit and still get any decent sort of frequency response out of it.

Things you need to know about subwoofers;
1. The box you put them into needs to be sized to fit the speakers you have - not all 12" subs are equal, or produce the same response from the same box.
2. Sealed vs ported vs isobaric bandpass boxes - the type of box (or enclosure for the ICE experts) you build will seriously (read massively) affect the sound you make with your subs - sure, they will always be loud, but with two RF 12's is a shitty box you might make 125dB in a beetle.... in the right box you might scratch 140dB - thats a massive difference.

In general sealed boxes give a flatter response curve - they make the deepest notes, and are not peaky. 99% of sound quality competition cars will use sealed.

Ported boxes have a vent in them which is tuned to a particular frequency. This can make them very loud at a certain range, but in general they will not have the lower extension of a sealed box. Your average ported box will be smaller for any given sub than a sealed box.

Bandpass boxes (there are several different types) are complex arrangments where the speakers are fitted to a surface that divides two separate chambers - which are either vented or sealed respectively. This is another way to amplify the response at a certain frequency range. They are very difficult to design for the amateur, but there are some good established designs out there.

Personally, I have run 1 x 10" JAycar CF sub in a sealed box in my 67, which was very nice, and I now run a 4th order isobaric bandpass box with two 6.5" sub / mid bass drivers in it (its a design out of Silicon Chip magazine), which does me quite nicely (not a doof doof setup by any stretch, but enough to blur the rear vision mirror).

The one thing I would say about car audio - do some research first before your install to save disappointment. There are plenty of very knowledgable guys on here who will help - Alan (DasDubber) comes to mind firstly...

Enjoy !

Thanks, for right now I'm just gettin the subs an amp, there not goin in the car just yet. We measured the back behind the seat, theres room for a box for 2, 12's an the amp. but first we got to get the rear section carpeted an floor undercoated an stuff.

i thought this thread should of been in BA for a whippin.. but then i read the thread.. oh well..

I got my speakers today, for $80. There 10 inch Soundstream subs. An also got my amp:bounce:bounce

what you guys recomend to go with this...my 10inch soundstream subs can push 350watts continuously, my amp is a 180x2 watt Rockford Fosgate.I was thinkin of gettin some fiberglass kickpanels from http://www.glass-action.com.  Then get a set of 6 1/2inch speakers for them an some kind of stereo.

Generally if you talk to anyone knowledgable in car audio and you will get some degree of consensus in that the front stage (ie. your front speakers) are the most important part of your system.

Spend the most amount of money you can afford in getting the best front splits possible. Everyone's budget varies but the point is get the best YOU CAN AFFORD. Next most important is the head unit, then amp, then sub. As mentioned above, have a look at the car audio australia website and do some reading before you spend any more money/time. Check out the beginners section and frequently asked questions areas.

IF you don't take the time to do some reading/research and expect people to give you the info on a platter without making any effort on your wn behalf, then expect don't expect too much valuable advice in return. If however you take the time to do some reading and develop some knowledge, then people are more willing to lend a hand. I'm always happy to help as everyone has to start somewhere.

I had a pair of the glass action kickpanels and they will suffice for a basic system with 6 1/2 in splits. Once you start to get more involed in car audio and upgrade your components (eg. like my splits which cost ~$1000 for the pair), you will want a sealed kick panel. I took the initiative and constructed my own sealed enclosures to maximise efficiency and volume to get the best from the 6 1/2 Dynaudio woofers, see here for "how-to":

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album221 

Apart from my sub box (which houses one 12in eclipse sub that is more than enough), the kick panels were only my second attempt at fibreglassing so don't think only the pros can do it. In terms of amp, again it depends on what you are trying to achieve in the short term vs long term. I run a 4 channel amp of which two channels are bridged for the sub, then the remaining two channels are devoted to the splits. Down the track I may add a monoblock for the sub which will dedicate the 4 channel solely to the front splits (ie. two channels each bridged for left and right splits). Hence why you have to think down the track as well.

Alan

And don't forget that most speakers claim their PMPO (Peak Mean Power Output), where more important is the RMS (Root Mean Square)wattage. PMPO can only be reached (without damaging the coils) with a signal generator.