Hi everyone,

Does anyone have a gland nut removal tool that they can hire, sell or lend this weekend? I'm in Melbourne's East. I need to remove a stripped 109 tooth flywheel and refit a 130 tooth flywheel.

http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/latest-rage-torque-tool-36mm-g...

Joel

I just removed mine yesterday, no special tools!

I used a 1 metre length of 50 x 8 flat bar held against the face of the flywheel, with one clutch bolt above and one below, then rotate the flywheel so the rest of the flat bar touches the ground. that's the flywheel locked!

(had to remove the j pipe to get the bar flat against the flywheel))

A 36 mm socket breaker bar, and a long pipe extension.

It was uber tight but it worked!

Give it a go if you can't get the proper tool.

Cheers
Dave

Joel
I have one and I must be close to you. I am in East Kew

Thanks to the very generous karmannghia60 for lending me the tool.

It worked an absolute treat. Took the nut of with little effort, removed the old fly wheel, cleaned up the block, replace the seal put on new flywheel got to about 20 ‎Lb-ft (x 9 = 180 ‎Lb-ft) and then stripped the nut and crank shaft!

Not sue what to do now. Anyone else been in this position who can give me some advise.

Cheers,

Joel

is there any way to get the thread out clean it
maybe a helicoil..but the thread in crank would be critical...not had this prob ever...nut must have been cross threading

I assume you didn't cross thread it so it must be metal fatigue.

The gland nut and crankshaft end are under a huge amount of stress. That's why the nut is on so tight. As soon as you get any sloppiness the flywheel starts vibrating and causes damage or worse can come loose or off.

I can't see a helicoil or other insert working. Not sure if they even make them that big.

I would say it's terminal for the crank but you might have some joy talking to specialist machine shops.

Of course others on here might chime in as well.

I doubt that you have stripped both the nut and the crank, more likely the nut. Check that the remain of the thread from the nut aren't making the crank look stripped.

Looked at mine today, unlikely that you cross threaded it.

Also unlikely to strip both crank and nut, one will let go first, probably (hopefuly) the nut.

Pick at the threads on the crank, maybe you can get the remains of the nut out.

Wave some heat at it if you can, the skinny shards of steel in the threads glow red and curl up....sometimes

Is your torque wrench a good one or a cheapie?

10 % out of spec becomes 90 % with the removal tool.... (possibly what happned?)

Good luck hopefuly fixed soon....

The Nut had one low spot on it prior to putting it back together. I thought I should be able to get it back together with no issues. It took a lot less effort to strip it than take it off but I might have done it too tight. My torque wrench is old but a good one.

I took the engine and nut to AVWPC. They retapped the crank in about 2 minutes (just removed the remnants of the nut I assume), replaced the oring (I forgot this), put a new gland nut on and put it pack together in about 20 minutes. They fully torqued the nut and off I went with a big smile.

Now I just need to grind out the gear box a little more refit the engine and hopefully start it for the first time in 12 months.

Thanks for all the advise.

You may have dodged a bullet there, jobie.

Did you reset your end play while you were at it?

like log off and reboot? lol

I think I might have dodged a bullet HappyDaze!!!

End Play was checked and was spot on. Can remember the number but was correct.

While the engines out I will adjust the tappets. I also picked up plugs, points, gaskets and oil so I will do all that stuff this weekend.

All going well might even try to fit some tires to my new wheels and get them on.

Lucky! I bet that makes you makes you feel better.

Jobie, please don't use that "good old" tension wrench to tighten the new plugs.

Please explain....

What would you like explained ?

Greg means the tension wrench that can break a gland nut. :-)

I think it was stuffed prior to it being put back on. I was a bit optimistic I thinks.

What torque should the plugs be. Is this important or just do it up tight....