Down Under Beams Available at VVDS
captainvw - December 27th, 2010 at 03:01 PM
Up to 4.5'' narrowed with shock towers ,up to 8'' narrowed without!
These are the best Beams on the market !
Laser cut uprights
Two piece Tin KDF (Bugboy) designed shocktowers
Perfect fit
each beam fitted with a DUB (Down Under Beams) plaque
4.5'' beam ready for install
Fitted
6.5'' beam
All beam are Tig welded by a ticketed Boiler maker with 10 plus years experience .Every beam is welded in a Jig and let cool before removal for as
little distortion as possible (less than stock)
These Beams are not engineered as they are narrowed
Down Under Beams PRICE LIST
Bare steel beam with shock towers $625
Bare steel beam with out shock towers $575
Bugpack Bushes (No machining needed) $75
Quicksteers $65 (recommended for anything narrower than 4.5'')
Painted add $30
Spring Packs shortened and Redimpled $90 per pair (using your springs)
Tie Rods cut and re tapped $60 per pair (using your tie rods)
Stickers $ 5 or buy a beam and get one free
Beams can be sent via Australia Post Registered and insured for replacement value for $50 interstate
Down Under Beams does NOT narrow O.G. beams ,and does not sell shock towers etc separately
Lindsay Brown 0409493012
Gosford NSW 2250
DieSchnelleKafer - December 27th, 2010 at 05:05 PM
woa 
sick beams dude! say, how close does the 4.5 beam get to the body at the top of the shock tower?
NUG637 - December 27th, 2010 at 08:21 PM
will this lower my beetle?
captainvw - December 27th, 2010 at 10:46 PM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by NUG637
will this lower my beetle?
|
SMB's
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by DieSchnelleKafer
woa
sick beams dude! say, how close does the 4.5 beam get to the body at the top of the shock tower?
|
About a bee's Dick 
NUG637 - December 27th, 2010 at 11:27 PM
seriously tho, well built beam
Wannavee - December 28th, 2010 at 03:08 PM
cock
Thatbrickhurts - December 28th, 2010 at 09:54 PM
Great quality.
Hey I was checking those US beams out of interest. The guy selling them sounds like a really honest seller...NOT
Check his feedback here
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=261369&postdays=0&po...
h - December 28th, 2010 at 10:03 PM
haha some funny shite 
made me laff
fish26 - December 29th, 2010 at 09:38 PM
Each to their own fellas, but you all sound like high school kids slagging other people and their product, I have dealt with Andy, the seller from US
and not had a problem.
I've not seen a DUB beam in the flesh but it looks the nuts in photos, well done Cap'n.
I have used the shock towers though, top notch.
jhp1 - December 29th, 2010 at 10:37 PM
#! Message No Longer Available !#
captainvw - January 2nd, 2011 at 09:12 AM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by LUFTMEISTER
They are both non engineered products and should have a warning as such " for off road use only" The US product is a very good price, but if the
local product is well priced and made, it should sell itself, like all good products. Maybe the local product could explain the $200-300 price
difference to help buyers decide?
|
Luftmiester would like to justify the cost which is a fair question.
The steel costs alone for me to buy for one 4.5'' beam is $275 dollars .That is for the Laser cut steel and tubing .Obviously the price would come
down if i was making large batches which i'm not
The shock towers i use allow you to go narrower than 4'' without body mods and are 10mm thick not 1/4'' .They are made this way to copy the 10mm
boss on a standard beam .These are 2 piece design and are more labour intensive than a 1 piece obviously,and cost more to get made.
Then we have the 3 piece uprights. The bosses alone take 20min (for 2 body mnt Boss's) to make then they are placed in a jig and the 3 piece upright
is welded together
We then have the beam tubing.I don't have any fancy tooling in shop so the tube is measured and marked i then drill 2 holes in the beam and slice the
slot for the adj with a 1 mm cutting disc the adjuster is then tacked on and the hole cleaned up with a die grinder if needed
This process is slow in itself but all i can do.
The beams are then placed in a Jig that holds the beam during the welding process .I then tac these together using a Mig .These are then taken to my
friends shop and are TIG welded (he has over 10 years experience and has is various tickets etc)
While not forgetting the Adjusters and Bushes need to be bought from the states and postage is half what the parts cost me
All up there is easily 4 hours in each beam MINIMUM then the transporting of them to and from shops etc
Im sure i could come up with a more cost affective designed beam but i wont because i know i wont be happy with it.
I think the quality of these beams speak for themselves,at the end of the day i don't need to build these i choose to.The less time i spend building
beams for other people the more time i have for working on my own Dubs
HappyDaze - January 2nd, 2011 at 09:48 AM
A bit over 30 years ago, when my boys wanted to go BMX racing, I made a rack to fit onto the tow-bar to carry the bikes. Soon 'everyone' wanted one,
so we started making them. We called it MAC-RAC, and ended up making thousands of the damned things.
Sold out about 25 years ago. There were MANY inferior copies.
I know how difficult it can be when customers say that they can buy a cheaper version of your product. Some people will buy the cheapest, no matter
how much better your one is. However, I find that - in general - most will consider all the options, and not allow price to be the only
consideration.
The important thing in NOT to cut back on quality for the sake of making a cheaper product. Not everyone can make a quality product. My son Tim (then
about 12 YO) came up with the slogan, "Don't buy a slack rack, buy a MAC-RAC". Emphasize the quality.
Cheers, Greg
LUFTMEISTER - January 2nd, 2011 at 10:24 AM
Thanks for the sane response. The quality of your beams is self evident and the avis adjusters are more expensive and give better clearance to low
riders that the bolt type. Now it is up to the punters to decide. Cheers
Peter O - January 3rd, 2011 at 08:24 PM
Capt
Do you do wide beams say 6 " wider than stock with a longer shock tower?
captainvw - January 3rd, 2011 at 08:51 PM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by Peter O
Capt
Do you do wide beams say 6 " wider than stock with a longer shock tower?
|
Anything is possible what is it for?
Peter O - January 4th, 2011 at 05:24 PM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by captainvw
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Peter O
Capt
Do you do wide beams say 6 " wider than stock with a longer shock tower?
|
Anything is possible what is it for?
|
It would be for an off road buggy. I have built a few before but it doesn't hurt to ask as it is a very time consuming job to do it right. I have had
trouble accessing the tubing to build another so thought I would ask.
I have also looked at bringing in a set of tubes from the states with longer leaf packs to suit and will most likely go this way.
Thanks for the response
Cheers
captainvw - January 4th, 2011 at 06:04 PM
Hey Peter o would love to see a pic of these things if you one...
If ever you want tom make one let me know can hook you up with the Tubing and uprights ,the Shock endplates can be bought from Bugboy.
Peter O - January 4th, 2011 at 08:04 PM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by captainvw
Hey Peter o would love to see a pic of these things if you one...
If ever you want tom make one let me know can hook you up with the Tubing and uprights ,the Shock endplates can be bought from Bugboy.
|
Thanks Captain I might take you up on the offer of tubing source.
I don't have pics I can show but if you made your beam 6 or 8 inches wider than stock and lengthened the towers to accept long travel shocks and
added a triangle brace back to the tube on the inside of the shock tower and a bump stop and brace arrangement above the top swing arm with your
uprights as braces in the centre and at the outer ends you would have a strong tube suitable for long travel off road use.
Tubes bend when you land on one wheel or hit big bumps hard so we brace them back to the chassis right out at the ends as well as the mounts that
would attach to your centre uprights.
Do you have to hone the tube to get the bushes to fit
or are you able to get correct inside diam Cro Molly tubing?
Cheers
captainvw - January 5th, 2011 at 06:37 PM
Was wondering if you braced them i could imagine them turning into a banana after a big hit
The tubing i use has a seam sits maybe 2mm proud, I skim a 5mm flat (across) on the bushes so they push in with a little force by hand.Im not sure on
the moly tubing never really looked into it.
HappyDaze - January 5th, 2011 at 06:56 PM
Errol Richardson from Canberra makes a chromoly beam. They are a work of art.
Mr Bubble Head - January 6th, 2011 at 12:08 PM
I've put one of these 4.5 inch DUB beams in a 59 and was overly happy with the quality and the ease at which everything went together. My tip for the
bushes is to get one of those thin (1.5mm I think) grinder wheels and score a 2mm groove in each bush this is to compensate for the tube weld/flash
joint. or do as Captin says grind a 5mm flat, either way same same result.
chequer57 - January 7th, 2011 at 09:43 AM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by HappyDaze
Errol Richardson from Canberra makes a chromoly beam. They are a work of art.
|
This beam built by Erol was as a proposed alternative to the Ball Joint Beams used in current Formula Vee.
The D.U.B. looks good it I ever got a road going Type 1 I'd put it under there and get the OEM Beam speced for a Historic Vee 
bnicho - January 7th, 2011 at 10:40 AM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by HappyDaze
A bit over 30 years ago, when my boys wanted to go BMX racing, I made a rack to fit onto the tow-bar to carry the bikes. Soon 'everyone' wanted one,
so we started making them. We called it MAC-RAC, and ended up making thousands of the damned things. Sold out about 25 years ago. There were MANY inferior copies.
|
I've still got a bright yellow MAC RAC. My parents bought it in 1983 or 84. I use it for my son's bike still.
Cheers,
PASHN8 - January 7th, 2011 at 11:20 AM
Great product and great service from the DUB team, mine is on order!
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE - January 7th, 2011 at 08:40 PM
Is there a possibility of doing Type 2 beams for Split and bays??? Sure there is a market for them as well.
Great looking product too!!
captainvw - January 22nd, 2011 at 02:11 PM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
Is there a possibility of doing Type 2 beams for Split and bays??? Sure there is a market for them as well.
Great looking product too!!
|
Would love to offer bus and type1/into type 3 conversion beams ,with real work commitments i just don't have the time to expand at the moment .I have
the PDF files for the end plates so it is definitely on the cards when work slows down
captainvw - January 22nd, 2011 at 02:12 PM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by chequer57
| Quote: | Originally
posted by HappyDaze
Errol Richardson from Canberra makes a chromoly beam. They are a work of art.
|
This beam built by Erol was as a proposed alternative to the Ball Joint Beams used in current Formula Vee.
The D.U.B. looks good it I ever got a road going Type 1 I'd put it under there and get the OEM Beam speced for a Historic Vee
|
Nice looking clean beam, those end plates look the goods .
humpty - January 22nd, 2011 at 05:48 PM
Hey Cap.... If you need the dwg files to build a TIII conversion beam, I can hook you up.... I've built a few in the past couple of years.... Not a
lot different to what you have really.... Just different framehead mounts.... Let me know brother.
captainvw - March 24th, 2011 at 06:32 PM
humpty - March 24th, 2011 at 07:08 PM
Oooo, pretty!