Is there a way to stop brakes squealing? Front discs on a 68 bug. The pads are new but I have heard that ever since the brake pads stopped using asbestos that they are prone to squeak. Are there any ways to stop it as it is embarrasing every time I pull up. The pads were replaced not that long ago, so is it down to brand (not sure what went in as they were done before I got the car) or are there other causes and solutions?

Also noticing a clunking in the rear as I corner but only on the passenger side, and not when travelling straight. Sounds like CVs but are there any other potential causes? There isn't anything loose there that I can see. I'm yet to check and lube the car so they may just be a little dry or worn.

There is a product called stop-squeek, its an aerosol you spray on your brakes. Later model cars have shims to prevent those kinds of vibrations that create that high pitch sound, I don't know if there is a vw adapted alternative.

Clunking could be a few things, bushes on torsion bar could be worn behind the spring plates, bushes on shock absorber could be worn. Those things will allow play. Worn engine mounts and transmission mounts will allow clunking and play but often come with associated driveability issues such as clutch shudder etc.

Re the brakes - could just be that the anti-rattle plates/shims/spring aren't in... some pics of the brake assembly might help.

Re the rear end noise:

CV's usually it's more of a "clack" sound.... as in "clack clack clack" and in rhythm with road speed. Am sure you've heard it before from probably a dozen sh!t-box Excel's or Camry's in shopping center carparks !!! With VW's tho it's not so much a cornering thing (since the rear wheels don't steer) but more noticeable when decelerating (just on the engine not the brakes).

A solid, singular "clunk" would most likely be pivot arm bushes (IRS bug) or torsion bar bushings, and usually comes just after the car starts to change direction (weight transfer). Torsion bar bushes might make the noise with big bumps too at a guess.

Shock bushes is a bit "lighter" or higher pitch sound... sometimes ting'y like a triangle if it lets the shock touch against anything... and is usually a few at a time almost like a rattle. Comes from bumps or dips more than cornering tho.

Spongy or broken trans or engine mounts should show up as clutch shudder or roughness looooong before you hear the clunk, unless you've got a REALLY quiet exhaust system on the car !!!

Are you sure the car is IRS?
68s were swingaxle unless they were auto and swingaxle 68s had the Z bar which is prone to clunking when the rubbers go bad.

Sides has it covered with the brakes usually the anti squeal plates are left out because they can be a pain to fit (particularly if the caliper has a problem internally and the piston won't push all the way back)or they are broken,I used Bendix pads in my workshop and found no problems.I found a lot of the other pads were too hard in the compound.

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Originally posted by Sides Re the brakes - could just be that the anti-rattle plates/shims/spring aren't in... some pics of the brake assembly might help. Re the rear end noise: CV's usually it's more of a "clack" sound.... as in "clack clack clack" and in rhythm with road speed. Am sure you've heard it before from probably a dozen sh!t-box Excel's or Camry's in shopping center carparks !!! With VW's tho it's not so much a cornering thing (since the rear wheels don't steer) but more noticeable when decelerating (just on the engine not the brakes). A solid, singular "clunk" would most likely be pivot arm bushes (IRS bug) or torsion bar bushings, and usually comes just after the car starts to change direction (weight transfer). Torsion bar bushes might make the noise with big bumps too at a guess. Shock bushes is a bit "lighter" or higher pitch sound... sometimes ting'y like a triangle if it lets the shock touch against anything... and is usually a few at a time almost like a rattle. Comes from bumps or dips more than cornering tho. Spongy or broken trans or engine mounts should show up as clutch shudder or roughness looooong before you hear the clunk, unless you've got a REALLY quiet exhaust system on the car !!!

I think you can chamfer (sp?) the leading and trailing edges of squeeling pads ...?

I'll check how new the pads are, if they are new new then might try chamfering them, if they are half down I'll get some quality ones and start again. I don't believe they are that expensive. They are only little brake pads, I got a spare pair of used ones with the car and they don't seem terribly big but I suppose they aren't stopping a truck.

It is an IRS rear (semi auto gearbox).

I guess the thing to do is get the back wheels off the ground on the weekend and see what moves or has play.