Hi All, been looking on this forum for ages and am looking for some help in buying a 1959 beetle I have been given 1st offer on buying.

I have always loved the beetle, ever since we had one as a family car when I was a little kid! I now have a son who loves them and used to want to get into everyone we saw. I am hoping this beetle will be a project for us both. I have been trying to find the threads on what to look for but can not find them. Can someone help please?

I am a mechanic so that side of things doesn't worry me, but just need to make sure the body is okay. The car has not been driven for a few years and has been stored inside for years as well. I have known of this car for at least 20 years, was a little old lady owner.

Its a non runner with a damaged left front guard, what do you suggest I offer? Thanks for any help you all can provide!

pics would help but these are very solid cars

check for rust under battery
and door pillars
also front fire wall lower corners joining the pillars....
make sure it def is a 59 as 60 was built in Aus and rust prone...

price depends if all std and no odd changes, on grd damage tails and semaphores are there an/ or working......so could be $2500 to $5500(with orig radio
tyres are a small cost. I have snowflakes, hubcaps, sema-parts speedos orig radio, wheel dress rings doorhandles and locks incl eng lock and more
can see car for u, if in Bris to fully assess!...just email

Thanks for the info. I will be taking photos tomorrow when I go and have a close look at it. I am pretty sure its all standard, old grandmas car, and although it has not been run in a while, I know it was driven in to the shed in the 1st place.

So if I am right, among other things, I am looking for rust where the door hinge pillar meets the floor and also the heater channels? So an aussie built one is not as good a base as import?

Where will the chassis number be? Under the rear seat base? Anywhere else as I think the interior will be full of spare parts! How do I identify the exact year and build country from the chassis number?

I am hoping the owners manual etc is in the glovebox to help with all this! Will let you know how I go!

fill in your location and peeps will know if they cab help

yes yes and yes for your answers

behind the spare wheel can be an id plate

also a date stamp on the speedo back under bonnet ....may say 9/1958 add ca 6 months and its a 59

RUST is the big issue

So I have taken a few photos, which I will try and get on here tomorrow. The car is an Australian built 1960 model. It has a square fuel guage in the dash next to the speedo. What model does them make it?

The car has done 77,000 miles. I was able to speak with the original owners family, who could tell me about all the dents etc on the car. The original engine is missing and the front bumper and mounting brackets, bonnet and impact damaged by a pole hit.

The spare wheel area and the left front guard have been lightly damaged at the same time. The body was rust free in the areas I have seen to check, the car has been garaged most of its life which has helped.

The floor pans are good too from above and below. The car is going to come with heaps of spares, like a disc brake front suspension and another, bigger engine.

Some how the battery area has caused a fire in the base of the back seat, but the rest of the area is okay. Its a 6 volt car, what is involved in changing to 12 volt?

The fuel gauge wasn't fitted to Aussie VWs until the second half of 1961, so this car may be later than you think. What is the chassis number? Look on the back of the speedo for a date stamp.

The Australian models and the major changes are described here:

http://www.clubvw.org.au/austvw001 

Chassis number information is here:

http://www.clubvw.org.au/vwchassis 

ditto Phi, lif its a 61 it should have the towel rail bumper tops
or
the gauge was retro fitted

Some Photos of the VW. Chassis number is 2756513, which states its a 1960 model, So does that mean the fuel guage was fitted later? What do the knobs on the dash do?

Damage that will need to be repaired. Can panels be bought for here is is it small enough to straighten out? Last photo is on the base of the pillar on the left. Looks okay?

RF pillar base area. The rego expired in 1997, So its been off the road for a long time, so I understand it will need a full restoration, all door seals are stuffed etc, but does the body look good enough to do? Mechanical side for me is easy, body stuff I am happy to learn, but don't want to buy a basket case. Thanks again for all your help.

Knobs are if still fitted correctly top lights,wipers bottom is choke next to ashtray

looks like a good car to resto and its all there

buy it......thats in great condition

It looks to be all original paint, so once a good panel shop pulls out the front (about 2 hours work max) that car would buff and detail up really well. If it was mine, I would just give it a full detail and only replace the rubbers etc that really need to be. Its a "survivor" car, so its worth more $$ in good original condition than restored IMO.

Quote:

Originally posted by Craig Torrens buy it......thats in great condition It looks to be all original paint, so once a good panel shop pulls out the front (about 2 hours work max) that car would buff and detail up really well. If it was mine, I would just give it a full detail and only replace the rubbers etc that really need to be. Its a "survivor" car, so its worth more $$ in good original condition than restored IMO.

Mate thats the buissness right there!Dehenie?fuel guage is a nice ittle plus! that peice alone is a few pennys.Hope you spend a little time researching what you may have here as it has rubber floormats etc and looks super orignal.A full resto or a half ass job will ruin what looks to be one of the better finds of late.Best of luck

Just looked at those photos again,mate thats a spectacular bug.Check out the thread on carl and emilys 62 beetle it had a simular feel and came up a treat and is still quite orignal.

So I have just bought this car!!! Awesome! Will hopefully bring it home on Wednseday, take some photos and then put in the shed. Might not be working on it for a while, but that gives me plenty of time to find out more about the car and what I want to do with it. How do I find out how it left the factory, with what options etc? Looking forward to getting started on this project. Just have to finish a couple of others first!

Sorry but there are no surviving Australian factory production records for individual vehicles - they were destroyed decades ago (the factory was sold and renovated in 1968, then again in 1976). As for accessories, they were not fitted at the Clayton factory, but rather by the VW dealerships prior to delivery. This includes things like mudflaps, rood racks, headlamp grilles, seat covers, radios etc etc.

If the car still has the original owner's paperwork - owners' manual, service booklet and paperwork etc etc - you might find out some more details.

That fuel gauge for example is a VW accessory.

Bugger! OOps sorry thats Toyota! Hahah!

I know it has all the books etc in the car also with every receipt they spent on it I am told! Will have a good look though all that as soon as I pick it up and go from there!

I had it confirmed today, the engine that comes with the car is a 1600 tp motor. I believe this is a good base motor because it has better heads? Where can I find out more about these motors? Is this a motor I will have to have engineered to fit for rego?

Twin-port 60-bhp 1600cc engines were not fitted to Beetles in Australia until the Superbug (Macpherson strut Bug) in 1971. These were 12-volt cars.

Your car would have originally had a 36-bhp 1200cc engine to go with its 6-volt electrics. These had an integral generator stand - that is, part of the crankcase casting. From 1961, the new 40-bhp 1200 had a separate bolt-on generator stand, as did all later 1300, 1500 and 1600 engines.

36-bhp parts and motors can still be sourced, but are expensive! 1600cc engines are the standard rebuild and replacement size nowadays. So long as you keep the engine stock-looking, with standard VW carb, air-cleaner and exhaust, you should be fine.

The year-by-year Aussie changes, and differences from German Beetles, are documented here:

http://www.clubvw.org.au/austvw001 

Thanks for information, that's a great help. The beetle we had when I was a kid was a superbug! Might have to just clean up the engine to get it registered and then trick it up after that!

Quote:

Originally posted by harasn Quote: Originally posted by Craig Torrens buy it......thats in great condition It looks to be all original paint, so once a good panel shop pulls out the front (about 2 hours work max) that car would buff and detail up really well. If it was mine, I would just give it a full detail and only replace the rubbers etc that really need to be. Its a "survivor" car, so its worth more $$ in good original condition than restored IMO. The paint is all original, I am told except for the right front guard which has been replaced. I was wondering about giving it a polish and see how it comes up! What would it be worth as it sits now? I am buying off a friend and want to do the right thing by all involved!

what is the date stamp on speedo back? then go then add 6 mnths!!

Yes your chassis is definitely a 1960 model - it's between 2528668 and 3192506. Your chassis number of 2756513 comes just over a third of the way through the 1960 numbers. For Australia, these numbers were assigned in batches by Wolfsburg and stamped locally as the cars were built. Given the Australian production year began at the start of the year, after the workers returned from the Xmas-New Year break (NOT the previous September, as per Germany), I am guessing your car dates around Easter 1960 or shortly after. As Greg says, the early 1960 cars had 'Duco' lacquer but this changed to baked enamel halfway through 1960.

It's defintely NOT a 1959 - it has the dished steering wheel with horn ring, and also push-button door handles. Originally it had no fuel gauge, and just used the reserve fuel tap on the floor, near the high-beam switch.

Beetles were in big demand in 1959-64 - in fact the 1960 model is still the highest-selling Beetle year in Australia (although 1964 sold more cars overall, thanks to the Type 3). They would have been sent to dealers and sold very quickly after coming off the line. After 1964, local sales dropped off and unsold cars began to accumulate in VW storage yards and dealer lots. By 1967, for example, a car could have been sold many months after it was actually built. This is especially true for the last year in 1976. The last one was made in July 1976, but dealer sales were recorded up to May 1977!

Yep, Phil...early 1960 looks right.

Just a tiny correction - the late 1959 also had the dished steering wheel, along with push-button door handles, front anti-roll bar etc. As you say, in July, 1960 paint was enamel, plus blinkers replaced semaphores, and a few other slight changes were made. Still 36hp though.

You guys are awesome with all you know about these cars! I did not know they had a reserve switch for the fuel tank, did wonder how far they could go before running out! Like a motor bike!

Trailer all booked for tomorrow, so I will have more details on the car tomorrow when I go through the glove box with all the books etc in it! Can't wait!

All the door seals etc are stuffed, am I going to have trouble getting them all or will saying its a 1960 Australian built car be enough info?