hello all
I'm rebuilding a 1600 and i've got a scat camshaft that needs a separate cam gear now they have the slant gears ones but all i could find was aluminum ones... and as much light weight as aluminium is i don't want to depend my engine on aluminum teeth so i'm thinking of steel on steel straight cut...
but people says that they are loud noisy and some say it sounds nice smooth and cool
I've never heard one before so if you have any opinion regarding this matter please post your comment thank you

the helical cut aluminium gears will handle what you are asking of them............same as factory.

yes steel on steel straights are loud, and not for everyone, but i manage to live with them every day, sometimes my ears ring a bit tho..........they sound tough and do have some benefits, but also wear quicker

confused yet?..........

you may be able to hear the difference on some of the short videos from the dyno mania threads

straight cuts are LOUD and anoying after a very short time and theres absolutly NO advantage

Hi

All factory gears were steel on the crank and alloy on the cam. The advantage of straight cuts is no end thrust, Birchall has no idea.

If you want to go semi straight cuts, get gears from a 36hp motor, they have less angle than a 40hp-1600 gear set, could be hard to find though.

Steve

Hi

Your display of your lack of understanding anything mechanical or technical is breath taking. So you don't believe that the valve train tension puts a side load camshaft?

I'm going outside now, arguing with you is like washing a hanky, a waste of time.

Steve

use a Kleenex instead

it may be quicker for you to wipe up the crap

at least i dont wear two pairs of socks, who said anything about fish

i just googled one on youtube i like the sound of it... it's like having the car in reverse (well cause the reverse is straight cut)
it's really nice but the thing is i don't know how long i will like the sound for
this is a big issue coz when i put it in and a month later i decide that i don't like it it means engine rebuild or new engine
arr i'm soo choosey

what do you use the car for?

transporting myself from point A to point B where AB=C... that wasn't funny
i pretty much just use the car to drive around occasionally drag some of my friends
you know hoon around. and with the carby and exhaust done and that's pretty much all I beat a tr magna you'd think with the 2.6 astron efi would blow u away but it's that heavy
probably too heavy from all the water in the radiator
I've got 32,36 weber on there sorta open it up a bit. I've got custom exhaust aswell got it tested 93dB at 3500rpm
so yeah pretty quiet so if i put straight cut in it'll be pretty much all i can hear

also I work at pizza hut and I'm a delivery boy.. in my 72 super bug with shitty ball joints so when i brake the steering wheel shake
it's not a bad job... i like driving the car around
one thing i wonder about beetle is... i never did see one got pulled over by cops..
i never got pulled over even when i was driving without muffler on so all i had was pretty much extractor and it scream so good

I'd be more concerned about putting the money into new ball joints instead if cam gears!
last thing anyone needs is for you to have an accident with the potential of killing yourself and anyone else for that matter.
Be responsible

I'll definitely get the ball joints this pay and if i have enough leftover might buy the cam gears
and i do say to myself all the time be responsible... but the thing is.. responsibility comes with a big price tag and it never ends
and my job doesn't pay that much really i got the car for 500 and i already changed the gearbox fixed rust holes
i enjoy doin it... it's pretty much the easiest car ever except putting the rear torsion bar back on ... it's like you can never get it right

sounds kinda wierd to me that the ball joints are causing a shudder under braking.
Are you sure its not brake shudder?

i'm pretty sure it's not the brake because it happens sometimes when i none of my two feet are on the brake

why try and make it sound ballsy when its not? takes alot more than a cam to spice up a 1600

the noise will drive u nuts after a very short period
i almost need ear plugs for my bug after blatting down the motorway, sux when u can barely hear passengers in the rear seat

spend the money on important safety items first
first port of call with any superbug is all the front and rear bushings and balljoints which u obviuosly know already

dont put them in.........you will hate it.

I ve decided to not use the straight cut gears firstly i couldn't find one and that they are the price of alloy x4 and i couldn't find a shop in adelaide that has one...even the alloy helical one is kinda chase to find i called one shop and they told me to call another...

anyway i have this greed for power... this engine i'm building have got a progressive weber, scat cam, ratio rockers, custom exhaust, electronic ignition that's probably all... even though i am not very financially able to finish this engine as fast as i wanted to i was wondering what else could i have on???
like a set of big valve head or sumthin

May as well machine the case and get some bigger pistons and cylinders.
Simon

that could cause some problem tho cause then i have to get the case welded where it usually cracks you know that bit at the back of the flywheel... I'm tempted but i don't think it will be worth it with all the risks... i mean even if i get that section filled up with some alloy there is still some part of the oil gallories that could crack... if i wanted a bigger engine i would use aftermarket crankcase, shafts, pistons n' rods
but that would cost a fortune
i was thinking big valves head they're like 550 complete new and that would cost more than what i've spent on the engine so far well i got second hand cam, weber, block, exhaust, bearings all under 500...
i'm looking for a small easything...
i don't think there is much else i can do... with my small budget anyway

maybe... i just wanna keep it 1584cc maybe i could play with the compression ratio

id be careful doing that
remember fuel quality today isnt wat it used to be

if u want to unleash some power take of the 2 main restrictions - carb and exhaust

decent header and pair of kadrons make for a zippy run around if the engines healthy enough

a pair of kadrons... would wouldn't be a lot better than 32 36 would it? i mean compare to 200 i spent for the progressive and maybe 700 for a pair of kadron would the kadron be worth extra 500 dollar??
(keep in mind 500 means a lot to me coz i get like 9 an hour where i work)

2nd hand kaddies are around cheap just keep ur eyes out on here and ebay
i sold a good working set for $250 a few weeks ago there not worth more than $400 2nd hand and if u can sell ur prog on ebay for $200 again ur halfway there

any twin carb set is gonna crap all over a single and ur talking twin 40mm carbs vs a 32/36 that has a really long manifold which doesnt do performance any real favours
a step backwards if theres no manifold heat

the progressives dont really do that much over a stock carb. if ur gonna stay single centermount then to make it worth while better off going a syncronis twin throat like IDF, DCN or dell DRLA with good preheat

well i've got a pair of solex 32-36 pdsit 2 and 3 out of a type 3
would it be as good as 32/36 or worse?

i like my progressive coz i got it jetted just right and it looks cool because i'm not using DFEV i'm using DGAV where the butterfly spins the other way so i had to make extra linkages and i made an air box on the carb that connects to the pod filter.

but twins kadron would definitely be better but running one carb already gave me too much annoyance.. i'm one of those people who just can't live things the way they are

I'd go the progressive over the dual PDSIT's, much less hassle (if you can get the tune up right).