i rebuilded my motor finally put it on took me a day and a night... finally got it in.. ran the engine in.. took it for a drive... just when i got
into 4th.. i felt the grinding vibration coming thru the shifter and the clutch.. this happened just this evening (friday)... i turned the car off
pushed it back about a km.
oh and i tried started it the starter cranked over but the engine was sitting still
lets have a guess what's wrong and how much damage it would have caused. just need other opinion before i take the engine out and cry like a school
girl
my guess.. flywheel bolt wasn't tight enough (i even broke the half in drive tighing it in)
Think you are right. Sometimes throw out bearing falling off or clulch pressure plate failure can make some horrible noises, but if starter sounds like it's engaging and the crank is not turning........mmm not good news!
yes on that note...
the answer will be reveal saturday night along with delicious hurtful photo would the crank still be ok?
stay tuned for the answer
maybe crank broken in half
..........
but hey, could be better news
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the answer is...
flywheel gland nut.
i broke another 1/2" getting it in.. so i got my dad to do the cave man's way which was weld the socket onto the 1 1/4 3mm thick and used
that...
since i got the cheater bar extended it to 1 yard (3ft)
tightened it as hard as i could by hand and then i (50kg... 110oddlbs) stood on the end of the bar so by the definition i've got 330ft lbs on the
bolt
but then i kinda jump on it a bit just to be sure..
so i guess i won't really need the proper 3/4" drive I got my own custom made 1/1/4 drive
it wasn't fun the second time
here're some photos
notice the bell housing was grinded by the flywheel teeth
not good but could have been worse
the engine that cost me over $1000
too tight, eh?
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| Originally
posted by hellbugged maybe crank broken in half ..........but hey, could be better news |
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Originally
posted by Joel
funny that, i found out thro experience they'll still run even with a broken crank will just get u home if its not to far but with a nice sewing machine note to it tho |
mm when the flywheel came off the oil kinda splashed into the clutch plate and now my clutch slips... and smokes
also does anyone knows sort of jets i shoulc run on a progressive? it puffs smoke 3000+ rpm
i got main 130 127
air corrector 160 150
and the shop doesn't have anything smaller well.. in stock that is
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| Originally
posted by jsheppard64 here're some photos ] |
thanks for the jets info
it's possible that the rubber may have been cracked.. somehow probably have to replace it when i have the clutch pressure plate done
maybe next pay spend it all on the car
New engine mounts are cheap 
i know that i was just making this face >>
because engine removal wasn't so effortless
and that bolt that goes thru from starter motor out behind flywheel where u have to put the nut in always piss me off.. last time i did it i taped it
in so the bolt doesn't get pushed back while i'm screwing the nut in
so i replaced the engine mounts cleaned the clutch plate and now the driveline is good...
and i thought while i have it out i'll adjust the tappets coz it was rattling since the first start. adjusted it to haynes manual it was like .25
something rather can't remember..put the engine back in went for a drive... n' it still rattles. so next day adjusted them again just to check went
for another drive still rattles
i couldn't take it so i adjusted so it to like 0.04 and omg it still rattles...
what could it be?? follower clearence was 1.4 mm when i had the case splitted
it gets really annoying and it makes me think that something is going to go wrong and i'd have to tow the car home
I hope they are the old engine mounts...
the left one doesn't look too good...
Yes, the Gland nut needs to be done up with a 3/4 drive socket and bar plus 3ft or 1 metre of pipe over the bar
and swing on it, jump on it etc...
I snapped off My Sons New Sidchrome 1/2 inch drive bar
trying to undo it.... lol
You can buy a product called "Brakleen" not sure of the spelling but it will clean up the clutch plate...
LEE
PS: the marks in the bellhousing from the flywheel teeth won't hurt it...
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before the engine rebuild i got about 20 ins/Hg of vac idling
it was standard 1600 with progressive carb
and now i got about 10 ins/Hg idling
could this be the result of the cam and the ratio rockers?
i did check for the leak in the manifold and there's no leak anywhere
is this something to worry about? or it's the consequence of the cam??