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Weber Dr in the house - saga continues!
spdterence - February 1st, 2009 at 05:42 PM

I have a set of Webers on my 1776 bug. They seem to run quite fine except when I drive a bit enthusiastically or corner hard over a bumpy road - then she runs like a dog - so I am guessing that I have some crap in there.
In addition when I had it serviced the boys seemed to think that the venturi size / emulsion tube combination was a bit odd.
I am thinking that I need to pull them down and re-calibrate them. Should I do this with the help of the forum or giddy up with the cash and have it done properly? - any recommendations on who in Sydney is a good man in these things?

Any throughts? Terry


Joel - February 1st, 2009 at 05:45 PM

any chance theyre old DCN/DCNF?

that was standard behaivour for off the shelf units
Berg used to trick them up to stop it but he made his work fairly undetectable


spdterence - February 1st, 2009 at 05:52 PM

Not sure - I take it this will be stamped in the usual place on the base / side of the body? T


Joel - February 1st, 2009 at 05:58 PM

yep on the side of the float chamber but you will have to be a contorsionist midget to read it

are they twin throat carbs?
DCN/DCNF are very low profile carbs with throats really close together

IDFs are alot higher with wide spacings between the throats

hers my old pair if its any help identifying them


jsheppard64 - February 2nd, 2009 at 10:17 PM

that is a clean engine bay


spdterence - February 3rd, 2009 at 07:17 PM

Thanks for that - I will check next week as I am away on business atm - they are definately dual barrel and have Dellorto air filter bases / tops on them. I think they are IDA's though - will come back to you later on the exact configuration.

Any thoughts on if I should rebuild myself or get someone professional to assist? From what I understand there are a few different versions of the Webers and I guess you would almost need to be an expert to know how to set them up right. Terry


Bizarre - February 6th, 2009 at 06:10 AM

Carburettor Service Company at Burwood Sydney do very good work


Joel - February 6th, 2009 at 04:44 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by jsheppard64
that is a clean engine bay


only cos these days its a toy that rarely gets driven

it was my daily driver uptill 4 years ago and white tinware doenst work well on a daily....

Terry they are most likely IDFs then if they have dell filters
IDAs would be abit over kill on a mild 1776


jsheppard64 - February 7th, 2009 at 12:46 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
Quote:
Originally posted by jsheppard64
that is a clean engine bay


only cos these days its a toy that rarely gets driven

it was my daily driver uptill 4 years ago and white tinware doenst work well on a daily....

Terry they are most likely IDFs then if they have dell filters
IDAs would be abit over kill on a mild 1776


my daily has oil splash pattern because oil leak out from the shaft and gets on the pulley where it centrifuge all over the engine bay. but i deal with it.. just degrease the engine every month or so. it's a toy that i play everyday that doesn't break when i play rough.


Joel - February 7th, 2009 at 05:44 PM

if ur pumping oil out passed the pulley u either got massive blow by problems or ur crank case breather isnt hooked up right


spdterence - February 18th, 2009 at 09:23 PM

I have also heard that the VeeForce guys also have some ideas in getting these to run right - has anyone had any experience with them?
Also the density of the unleaded fuel these days is also somewhat different to years gone by - so there are some fixes there.

What typically is the set up for these in terms of jetting size, emulsion tube, venturi etc - or is this a huge can of worms discussion? Terry


Sides - February 19th, 2009 at 07:39 AM

Have we figured out for sure what carb's you've got ??? If not post up a pic of the top of one (air cleaners off) and we can ID it for you.

Typical setup, well every engine is different, and even the starting point varies based on the carb, the engine, how you want to drive it etc. It's mostly trial and error and a chunk of testing... but I reckon take a crack yourself before shelling out to get someone else to do it.

There's a lot of info around on the net if you look... the carb related articles at http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm are a good starting place when you're coming pretty much from scratch knowledge wise.


Joel - February 19th, 2009 at 03:34 PM

ur best bet is find out what model webers they are and get rebuild kits

good old Italian webers only need new gaskets and seals and there good as new again
my DCNs originally came out of a ferrari Dino 206 so that shows u how old they are but i was able to get rebuild kits for them from a bloke on ebay for $40 each plus jets and linkage bits from him too


spdterence - February 19th, 2009 at 09:27 PM

Sorry - I have been slack I know. Got a few balls in the air atm - all good though, have never had this much fun! Anyway here are a couple of photos and lets see what we can make of it. Terry


barls - February 19th, 2009 at 09:29 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by spdterence
I have also heard that the VeeForce guys also have some ideas in getting these to run right - has anyone had any experience with them?
Also the density of the unleaded fuel these days is also somewhat different to years gone by - so there are some fixes there.

What typically is the set up for these in terms of jetting size, emulsion tube, venturi etc - or is this a huge can of worms discussion? Terry

vforce know their stuff ether ring or drop in for a visit and chat to them.


spdterence - February 19th, 2009 at 09:30 PM

And another one.


spdterence - February 19th, 2009 at 09:32 PM

And one more for good measure - however this might night be quite so useful in the identification process.


spdterence - February 19th, 2009 at 09:40 PM

Thanks barls - aka Mr Indefatiguable :-) I know that I can spend hours sorting this out - or I can get someone with many hours of accumulated knowledge to do it for me, I would like to do it myself - however I just don't have the time. I know - VW's are almost entirely designed to slow you down in one way or another. ! I will just drive it slow.


Sides - February 19th, 2009 at 09:53 PM

Those are IDF's... pretty sure they're 40's, which normally have cast in velocity stacks - just yours seem to have had them ground off to let the air cleaner and throttle linkage setup from a set of 44's bolt on.

Yeah, getting them right takes time - stripping and cleaning them is probably an afternoon's work if you haven't done it before.


spdterence - March 19th, 2009 at 10:17 PM

Well we are making progress.
Hans has been right through the carbies and they are a rare breed. Hans recons he hasn't seen them too often and they don't appear in any of the Weber parts books - and amazingly he had another bus in this week with exactly the same pair.
Anyway I took it for a blat down Heathcote road - run great - then again some flipping issue with fuel delivery. Grr. Not sure if I need to pull the tank out and the fuel lines and see if some thing is deteriorating there.

Apart from that - it is going really well. Terry


colonel mustard - March 19th, 2009 at 10:23 PM

just looking at the pictures... is that fuel pump block off tapped? (is there a hole in it) Is it usually blocked???


Joel - March 20th, 2009 at 03:53 PM

they all come with the spigot there so you can drill them out for breather box return/ turbo oil return etc


spdterence - March 20th, 2009 at 08:43 PM

Yep - that right. There is no hole there, just an indentation that catches the light so that it looks like there is.

The plot thickens however on the carbies - well the question is - is it the carbies?
In fact it turns out this might not be the problem.
If you look closely you can see that the motor has an electronic ignition - ie no points.
Now it runs fine till it gets hot - then underload some spark breaks down
We are trying to track it down - but short of starting to replace components not sure where to start. Change plugs, then leads, then coil, then dizzy I expect. More money More Money.


Joel - March 21st, 2009 at 07:54 AM

ive had dying coils do that

and given that your coil is one of those solid state non oil filled ones it could be the type that needs a ballast resistor and doesnt have one
those GT40R coils start breaking down when they get hot when fed straight 12 volts


spdterence - March 22nd, 2009 at 08:05 PM

Thanks Joel - Hans thinks the same as well. He hates that type of coil - although I have to admit that it is a bit neater than the std type. How would I find out if it has a ballast resister etc etc. I am almost completely ignorant of electrics - mechanical stuff ok - but lectrickty is almost a black art! :!:


Joel - March 23rd, 2009 at 09:33 PM

Hi Terry,
your right they do look alot neater
9 times out of 10 the coils say on them somewhere

" use with resistor" or something along those lines

if it still has a lable on it you should be able to find out


matberry - March 23rd, 2009 at 09:53 PM

If it's a GT40R I think it's meant to have the balast resistor, hence the R, The GT40 is without.


spdterence - March 25th, 2009 at 07:48 PM

Thanks heaps Joel and Matberry - appreciate the insights. I will try to get another one on the weekend and see what gives. Thanks Terry


spdterence - April 6th, 2009 at 10:05 PM

WOO HOO - it is running again! Perfectly. Just for the record the new "made in China" MES171 Bosch coil for electronic ignition is a completely new design.
It pyhsically looks completely different but did fit up pretty easy -
Now the old girl rips along!. Time for a run with some other bugs. Would love to hook up with some other bugs over easter - my kids have been hanging out.

Terry


colonel mustard - April 6th, 2009 at 10:35 PM

two things...

1. your breather set up is crazy... never seen a box like that before.
2. the vacume line from the Disi... what happens to it? does it go thought the fan shoud then (split?) go to a carb?