I have a set of Webers on my 1776 bug. They seem to run quite fine except when I drive a bit enthusiastically or corner hard over a bumpy road - then she runs like a dog - so I am guessing that I have some crap in there.
In addition when I had it serviced the boys seemed to think that the venturi size / emulsion tube combination was a bit odd.
I am thinking that I need to pull them down and re-calibrate them. Should I do this with the help of the forum or giddy up with the cash and have it done properly? - any recommendations on who in Sydney is a good man in these things?

Any throughts? Terry

any chance theyre old DCN/DCNF?

that was standard behaivour for off the shelf units
Berg used to trick them up to stop it but he made his work fairly undetectable

Not sure - I take it this will be stamped in the usual place on the base / side of the body? T

yep on the side of the float chamber but you will have to be a contorsionist midget to read it

are they twin throat carbs?
DCN/DCNF are very low profile carbs with throats really close together

IDFs are alot higher with wide spacings between the throats

hers my old pair if its any help identifying them

that is a clean engine bay

Thanks for that - I will check next week as I am away on business atm - they are definately dual barrel and have Dellorto air filter bases / tops on them. I think they are IDA's though - will come back to you later on the exact configuration.

Any thoughts on if I should rebuild myself or get someone professional to assist? From what I understand there are a few different versions of the Webers and I guess you would almost need to be an expert to know how to set them up right. Terry

Carburettor Service Company at Burwood Sydney do very good work

if ur pumping oil out passed the pulley u either got massive blow by problems or ur crank case breather isnt hooked up right

I have also heard that the VeeForce guys also have some ideas in getting these to run right - has anyone had any experience with them?
Also the density of the unleaded fuel these days is also somewhat different to years gone by - so there are some fixes there.

What typically is the set up for these in terms of jetting size, emulsion tube, venturi etc - or is this a huge can of worms discussion? Terry

Have we figured out for sure what carb's you've got ??? If not post up a pic of the top of one (air cleaners off) and we can ID it for you.

Typical setup, well every engine is different, and even the starting point varies based on the carb, the engine, how you want to drive it etc. It's mostly trial and error and a chunk of testing... but I reckon take a crack yourself before shelling out to get someone else to do it.

There's a lot of info around on the net if you look... the carb related articles at http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm are a good starting place when you're coming pretty much from scratch knowledge wise.

ur best bet is find out what model webers they are and get rebuild kits

good old Italian webers only need new gaskets and seals and there good as new again
my DCNs originally came out of a ferrari Dino 206 so that shows u how old they are but i was able to get rebuild kits for them from a bloke on ebay for $40 each plus jets and linkage bits from him too

Sorry - I have been slack I know. Got a few balls in the air atm - all good though, have never had this much fun! Anyway here are a couple of photos and lets see what we can make of it. Terry

And another one.

And one more for good measure - however this might night be quite so useful in the identification process.

Thanks barls - aka Mr Indefatiguable :-) I know that I can spend hours sorting this out - or I can get someone with many hours of accumulated knowledge to do it for me, I would like to do it myself - however I just don't have the time. I know - VW's are almost entirely designed to slow you down in one way or another. ! I will just drive it slow.

Those are IDF's... pretty sure they're 40's, which normally have cast in velocity stacks - just yours seem to have had them ground off to let the air cleaner and throttle linkage setup from a set of 44's bolt on.

Yeah, getting them right takes time - stripping and cleaning them is probably an afternoon's work if you haven't done it before.

Well we are making progress.
Hans has been right through the carbies and they are a rare breed. Hans recons he hasn't seen them too often and they don't appear in any of the Weber parts books - and amazingly he had another bus in this week with exactly the same pair.
Anyway I took it for a blat down Heathcote road - run great - then again some flipping issue with fuel delivery. Grr. Not sure if I need to pull the tank out and the fuel lines and see if some thing is deteriorating there.

Apart from that - it is going really well. Terry

just looking at the pictures... is that fuel pump block off tapped? (is there a hole in it) Is it usually blocked???

they all come with the spigot there so you can drill them out for breather box return/ turbo oil return etc

Yep - that right. There is no hole there, just an indentation that catches the light so that it looks like there is.

The plot thickens however on the carbies - well the question is - is it the carbies?
In fact it turns out this might not be the problem.
If you look closely you can see that the motor has an electronic ignition - ie no points.
Now it runs fine till it gets hot - then underload some spark breaks down
We are trying to track it down - but short of starting to replace components not sure where to start. Change plugs, then leads, then coil, then dizzy I expect. More money More Money.

ive had dying coils do that

and given that your coil is one of those solid state non oil filled ones it could be the type that needs a ballast resistor and doesnt have one
those GT40R coils start breaking down when they get hot when fed straight 12 volts

Thanks Joel - Hans thinks the same as well. He hates that type of coil - although I have to admit that it is a bit neater than the std type. How would I find out if it has a ballast resister etc etc. I am almost completely ignorant of electrics - mechanical stuff ok - but lectrickty is almost a black art!

Hi Terry,
your right they do look alot neater
9 times out of 10 the coils say on them somewhere

" use with resistor" or something along those lines

if it still has a lable on it you should be able to find out

If it's a GT40R I think it's meant to have the balast resistor, hence the R, The GT40 is without.

Thanks heaps Joel and Matberry - appreciate the insights. I will try to get another one on the weekend and see what gives. Thanks Terry

WOO HOO - it is running again! Perfectly. Just for the record the new "made in China" MES171 Bosch coil for electronic ignition is a completely new design.
It pyhsically looks completely different but did fit up pretty easy -
Now the old girl rips along!. Time for a run with some other bugs. Would love to hook up with some other bugs over easter - my kids have been hanging out.

Terry

two things...

1. your breather set up is crazy... never seen a box like that before.
2. the vacume line from the Disi... what happens to it? does it go thought the fan shoud then (split?) go to a carb?