hi guys,

im wondering if anyone knows of where to go to get my front brakes upgraded to a bigger size. im in vic but willing to get things sent over from other states providing the cost and quality warrants.
I believe the brakes are all standard size. fronts are disc rears are drum would consider doing rears but not sure at the moment.
As i have the rims that i want and dont want to get new ones i dont want to have to change too much. the rims are 14" X 6" bathurst globes to suit early vw type 3s 4 stud
Ive looked at hoppers stoppers site but couldnt find anything, not sure about other places.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,

Trev

search for big brakes on here, from what i know, make life easy you have 3 options,
1-maintain the originals, add better pads & get vented or drilled discs whatever tickles your pickle
2- vwcool's brake upgrade - theres 2 big threads about it on here & a few people with them that may be able to help you
3- porsche 944 turbo brakes, 66deluxe has them & steve carter has them on the rear of daves L bug

depends how easy you can source bits & peices, keep in mind with gear from overseas you may not be able to get it approved & also consider availability of pads etc in future

what kind of vw this is going on will make a difference in price too, im curious what kind of car its going on too...

what type and year model car do you have

ahhh heres the problem, its an old kit car, its a Eureka, but i have no idea, it has a police number so not sure what size engine underneath it says something about mexico and i know that its an IRS model... i can try to take some pics but the ones i currently have are too big to upload. ill try to turn the resolutions down before i take some pics and see if this helps.

Thanks for the help so far stidub


ok here are some pics now

Why do you want to upgrade??

Stock brakes are good for a significant improvement in HP
Type 3 drums on the back helps a lot

my engine number is "V853385P" the p is a police number when the block hadnt had a previous number or something so ive been told. i went to vicroads and they have said that it is a 1983 purvis eureka according to their records, but was last registered in 1987. will be doing a full rebuild, with motor and transaxle getting sent away but will keep the floor pan that is in it now. its not too bad. the eureka i reckon is easiest described as a beetle with a body kit, you take off the beetle shell and drop on the fibre glass body bolt everything in alter a few small bits and pieces and away you go.

ok finally found the chassis number it is 133 242 0166 (i hope that is correct if not its very close)

Ok - fair enough

130 ponies warrants a brake upgrade

new stock vw brakes work good, I mean new everything after all most vw are 40 year old these days.
I have 177hp subaru motor and my brakes work fine after all the vw is only a lite car.
dont waste your money with a vw motor go the subaru after all your car is allready been cut up.
links below
the subaru $500 motors have the most power. I have the 2 worked red vw with $7000 motors max hp 77 and the subaru is so much better. every thing over 77hp is subaru powered.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Q_hJU9pd3A 

Stay with good VW for now to save the coin for that engine. VW brakes work well when good (as new) condition.

at the moment i dont need engineers cert, and want to stay clear from them as much as possible. its been registered with a vw motor and thats the way i wanna keep it. no need for mucking around with radiators or lots of electrical work. personal opinion.
not trying to be smart alec but do you have a dyno print on your donk ian.mezz? please dont take that the wrong way just curious thats all

oops yeah my 177hp is a subaru motor, heaps of fun.
my low hp motors are vw.
I edit last post

The Police engine number will probably mean that it has had one of those brand-new crate engines from Mexico at some stage, rather than being an original German crankcase. As for brakes, I'd think that factory VW stuff with good pads should be good enough even with the extra horsepower, don't forget that it's only pulling up a very light car. I'm not sure what a Eureka weighs but it can't be more than 750kg.

so what year and model would my car be with the chassis number being "133 242 0166"?

Yeah, like Ian said - the pan is a 1973.

Ball joint front beam and an IRS rear end.

I've never minded the old Eureka's... with some TLC, could be a pretty hot lookin car !!!

thanks guys for the warm welcome and solid info. i hate it when you just chase your tail.

my eureka is the f4 model same as my dads. both never had the lambo scoop air intake or any spoilers... that stuff turns them into more of a jap looking car in my opinion. my car will be kept white on top and black underneath. considering much later picking up a gtech meter and using that as the tacho. but ill see what happens, i have a couple of years to go before i need to seriously think about that stuff. not sure ifr they are "legal" or not though. as i said im looking at rebuilding the whole car, so if anyone wants to recommend any products to me that are better than others or what brands to stay clear from that would be good. looking at doing the front end first (steering and suspension) then the rear suspension motor transaxle then all the interior goodies if i dont pick things up in between.

Motor will be covered but a good quality trans that would be suitable for decent power will be needed.

oh and in regards to model i was meaning what model bug, not eureka i already knew that one, but thanks ian


the blue one was my dads when he had it

perhaps the issue of vwma from 2-3 issues ago with the targa bound eureka would be worth a read, i recall it had an interesting brake setup (free plug for Mr Hughes )

You mentioned that you would like to stay away from engineers certificates, and this being the case, the only option would be to stick to VW brakes..........being disc fronts and drum rears, an upgraded version of VW components would be going with type3 calipers on the front and their bigger drums on the back laso. The latter type3 mentioned components have much more surface area on the brake pads and shoes. Like others have mentioned, VW brakes would provide ,more than adequate performance for all but the most spirited of driving.

Your choice of wheels and their subsequent stud pattern may influence your choice of brakes also

As for pan year.....there were only TWO years of chassis produced that provide your combination of the ball joint front and independent trailing arm suspension, being semi auto 1969 and the last models of 1976. However it is possible to convert both front and rear ends of 90% beetle pans to the combination you have..........SOOOOOOOOOOO, in reference to ordering parts simply ask for BALL JOINT front and IRS rear and you should get what you need

Gotta love a good Eureka, nice that you appear to be following the family tradition

the first picture of my dads has always been blown up to poster size and hung up on the wall, fell in love with it when i was quite young, i loved it as soon as my dad was telling me about it. my uncle half way through 09 had been discussing with me one day that you can still get them sometimes for only a few gorrilas on flea bay (there was only 683 ever built)... searched for a couple of months then brought my baby home... more than enough work to keep me out of trouble for a little while. i suppose when i have a few spare dollars something will get done.
id say being a member of the eureka forum most have foreign motors but there are still quite a few with the good old dak dak