Was wondering if anyone knew where I can get this stuff from?



Some b£stard decided it was a good idea to get rid of it all from my 1974 Beetle :-)!

Why would people remove the thermostat and all of the linkages (they were removed too) and probably the flaps and deflectors? I have read and came across folks mentioning it was actually done by VW techs themselves in Australia?

mate they were all removed by factory techs at first service. try looking on the samba for possible replacement units.

extreamly hard to find nowdays

your car will run with out it

wher r u located ???

In Aussie unless u live in the snow fields you wont need it

but thats NOT to say its a NOT a good thing

yes it helps with the warm up and getting the engine to operating temps
BUt we do have a better climate than germany

Canberra..............Cold winters :-)!

I just bought the car and I spent a bit of time tuning it up, got it running reasonable well at idle, but starting and running straight away is not easy unless your hoovering over the throttle :-).

So did some investigation and came across the Cooling Vanes and Thermostat.

I don't think this is the issue on cold starting, well the major issue - when the car is warm it runs just fine, just a bit cranky on startup.

Has a Solex P34 Carb, with 009 Mech Advance Dizzy.

Set the timing up at around 25-26deg advance at 3500rpm, didn't like it any higher than that, then adjusted the volume control screw to regluate the idle, but if I dropped it below 1000rpm, car sounds like it want's to stall.

Idle is a bit variable, hops from around 1000-1250rpm, sounds like exhaust leaks, which plugged and then putting a kit through the Carby and maybe even ditching the points for a Pertronix setup would help the cold starts and overall running of the car no end I am sure!

However, still think some of it has to do with not having a thermostat and most likely deflector flaps at the bottom of the fan shroud.

BUT.................more worried about driving around without a Thermostat, tried that in another car (Not a VW) and the temp never got about 60deg, when it should have been operating around 85-90deg.

Worried that the VW Engine will be too cold on startup, particularly in a cold Canberra winter, and when warm the air is not directed to where it needs to be aswell, the heads.

Yes - it is better if it has the vanes, but sounds like you have other problems to worry about first

For what it is worth, I dont believe any of my cars have had flaps, let alone thermostats

If your idle is hunting my bet is an air leak, and if you have a 34 Pict I reckon that is your problem

Blocked heat riser pipes will play a major part in warm up as well

Yeah heat risers seems okay, nice and very warm to the touch when engine is at temp.

But, carby looks very old and dirty - certainly needs pulling off and rebuilding.

So basically no one has a thermostat on their bugs in Australia :-)?

A lot got thrown away as being not necessary

As said - I have been driving different dubs for 30 years and not had them

They would play a part in head temperatures with air direction, but ........................well, if I had them I would put them back in,but I dont

Well that makes me feel better.

Might see if I can get the bits from the US.

Quote:

Originally posted by aussie260z Was wondering if anyone knew where I can get this stuff from? Some b£stard decided it was a good idea to get rid of it all from my 1974 Beetle :-)! Why would people remove the thermostat and all of the linkages (they were removed too) and probably the flaps and deflectors? I have read and came across folks mentioning it was actually done by VW techs themselves in Australia?

it seems that those two small pipes are pre heater pipes that lead up to the air filter...

Mine has the one large [yellow] preheater air hose....

some of the early cars also had smaller pre heaters...

best of luck

LEE

any chance of a pic of Your engine??

when cold, Your engine will go much better with the automatic choke Adjusted... very simple to do...
a new SVDA distributor will make heaps of difference to your engine too..
I bought Mine from aircooled.net in the USA....
much much better than the 009... Lee

It was common practice but they weren't all removed.
atleast 4 or 5 of my cars have still had them.

I believed all the hype and chucked them out on my first engine build.

The only failure I've ever seen due to flaps was on a buggy.
The stat was removed as it interfered with the bar work and the spring that holds the flaps open had broken so flaps fell shut..... goodnight Irene.

Even the flaps serve a purpose when they are fully open, they act as vanes to direct the air more at the heads and less at the barrels.

I spent abit of time getting a working setup on my 1776, the most noticeable difference it makes is to fuel economy, also helps the heaters work better.

I got a set of flaps, thermostat bracket set up from Vintage VW a few years ago. They were selling reconditioned kits with everything except the bellows thermostat. It hard to find a good working thermostat though. I bought two second hand ones and both were cactus within a month of operation. Found a guy on thesamba who got hold of the original weller tooling and is making re-manifactured thermostats using the top and bottom fittings off old thermostats but with new bellows. Pricey but as good as a brand new one.

Using the thermostat does make a big difference in warm up time. The quicker it warms up the less wear the internal spinny things are going to see.

I have working thermostats on most of my vw's, so definitely not all removed by the factory!
I spent a lot of time playing with the setup on the kombi (type 4 motor), they work basically the same. What I did find, even in winter in brissy they open fairly quickly, about 5 min max, and never close up once up to temperature. I think you'd need to be in sub zero temps for them to restrict air flow at operating temps
So they really are only for start up in Australia, and as they operate on the air off the heads/barrels they open up long before the oil is up to temperature

I have also heard the Brazilian ones fail closed, not open, so would not like to use them

The Wahler bellow type do get lazy as they get older, mine was NOS in the box when I got it.
I lived at the bottom of a big hill and by the time I got to the bottom, stopped and opened the shed door on an average temperature day it would be half compressed as the head temp had dropped right back.

The thing that impressed me most aside from the fuel mileage improvement was how much better the heaters worked.


There is alot of mis-information floating around the net on the new "mexi" thermostats
The biggest one is they actually come from Brazil not Mexico but people call them mexican thermostats..... go figure.

People think they are a factory part when they are just an ordinary watercooled thermostat with the housing removed and tapped for a vw rod, they're designed to be in coolant not relying on air flow.

There has been a pretty high fail rate with them probably down to that fact and when they fail it's in the closed position.

I want a good working heater as it sucks being in Canberra without one :-)!

I have orderd the Mexican thermostat, connection rod and securing rod bracket from CIP1, that is half the puzzle :-).

There is a place local to me that does a bit of VW Beetle work, so hopefully they have this kit lying around on one of their engines and then I can re-instate.

I have also ordered myself a carby rebuilt kit, so when I get time in the next week or so, I will pull it down and rebuild it and then play around with the timing, idle etc.

Be good to get my hands on the Thermostat pieces I need whilst I have the carby off, because to get at that Tinware it has to come off anyways.

Also, looks like most of my heater stuff is missing, half the ducting seems to be missing, plus the rear flap heater levers are both gone - plus, there is leaks a plenty underneath in the heater/exhaust system............so have to plug of all those gaps as well.

................plus, I am going to go with an external (more external I guess) that what is there now, just got to figure out where to put it, looks like Porsche folks mount them all the way up in the front guard, but don't particulary like the idea of such a long journey for my oil.

I have wide rear guards, so maybe I could stuff it in there.

Anyone got any pics of where you mounted your coolers?

The standard doghouse cooler should be more than adequate for the oil cooling, as long as you have all the other tins fitted and sealed properly then you won't require more than that

[size=4]Hi
I have mine located under the left hand rear guard, away from the tyre and at an angle to stop any stones.. etc..

I will be putting alloy mesh over it to stop anything hitting it...
although where it is, nothing should hit it and it isn't actually THAT close to the tyre.... lol and the tyre can't touch it [now?]


I have had oil coolers located on top of the fan shroud with the engine lid open at top... large oil cooler..
the only thing was the heat from the oil cooler went into the engine bay too... and I don't like everything getting so Hot..
I also had a smaller unit behind the fan shroud over the opening so the fan sucked thru it..
but again everything in the engine bay got very hot...

now under the rear guard with a temperature gauge fiited and working [no thermostat on engine] oil doesn't go thru the oil cooler until the oil pressure relief valve opens when the oil is Hot and much thinner and lower in pressure...
My engine is an early 1600 with small oil galleries and only one relief valve.. and non doghouse fan shroud, & small oil pump..

some of the oil coolers up front use copper pipe so the air flowing over the pipes help cool the oil too..

You can put an outlet plate on Your oil pump and can also install a spin on oil filter... which is a HUGE benefit to air cooloed VW engines..

cheers

LEE


[/size]

Just purchased FI, and the plan (once I get the rest of the car sorted) is slap a nice little turbo on the side of the motor............so figure at that stage an external (like of the engine external) oil cooler would probably be a worthwhile investment..............but that is why I am planning on it, not just because it seemed like a cool idea :-)!

BUT.................'run it inline with the existing cooler', how would you go about doing that?

What I was thinking was run an adapter where the Doghouse cooler is now, plumb in line a thermostat and coolant temp sensor (this is for the FI and Fan), so constant oil flow through the cooler, when the thermostat is warmed up, then on its way back I run it through an Oil Filter, like the idea of an oil filer :-)! All through 1/2" lines.

Mount the Oil Filter on the Passenger side firewall, and maybe (Because I have big wide guards) mount the Oil Cooler on the front side of the guard and then (If possible) run the oil lines through the passenger side firewall.

I liked the idea of opening up a vent on the front part of the Guard, but it seems like this would not be needed because I would have the thermofan on it,

But may the airflow would be better if I just slapped the Oil Cooler near the Transmission mounting forks, plus placing it there would make plumbing a sh£t load easier!

Hi

The best place for an oil cooler is in the front, I've run lots of cars like that with no problems, my sons car is running only an external cooler with no cooler in the doghouse at all.

The tinware you showed in your original post is for an early car. The cover over the pulley is waste of time, VW deleted on later models.

Steve

MORE PICS OF THE ADAPTOR ETC...

will have to wait for more pics of the oil cooler... lol

LEE

Thanks for the pics fellas!

Ok................found out hat Full Flowing the case means......................tedious :-)!

http://www.dune-buggy.com/techtips/fullflow/ 

and.....

http://www.huelsmann.us/bugman/FilterTech.html 

Or....................if I have the newer VW case, which I should because mine is a 1974 (Car is not close by so will have to check).

I could do a bolt on full-flow setup.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-Bolt-On-Full-Flow-Filter-Kit-p/3014-20bp...

With the Return Adapter.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/SearchResults.asp?Search=Return+Adapter 

Then do as you said Joel,