how do i identify the year model of an oval beetle and whether engine and chassis numbers match ?
one found me but i don't know too much about them.
chassis is 118475247

Thats a 1968 chassis number ???

not an Oval window number

hmmmm,it's definately an oval as far as i can see.it has semophores.i'll have another look tomorrow any tips on what i should look for ?where is the chassis number stamped on the car 'cause i took that number off the rego label which is current.any other ways of checking year model /all help would be greatly appreciated .

From what i have read on here it is not uncommon in the past to upgrade early models onto later pans, sounds like thats what you have

it sounds like it has a body change alot of people do this in order to get ball joint suspension, disc brake front end and the all important irs in some models irs was available with semi auto and the last of australian beetles in 1976 which had both ball joint h beam and irs standard

just did a rego check with nsw rta .it's listed as a 1956 model with them ,

thats wierd im with vw 54 with that chassis year

where is the chassis number stamped ? I'll check tomorrow
and get to the bottom of it.i'm intrigued but it's been twenty odd years since my last bug so i'm a bit rusty.The boss says one of the busses or the square back has to go if i buy it so maybe it's better if it doesn't happen.although even if it's grafted onto a later chassis it still looks the goods and the price seems fair.

under the back seat there is an oval "window" where the gear box joins the gear linkage

Just in front of that the VIN number is stamped

i had another look today and yes it is a 56 grafted onto a 68 but the body is very good as far as rust goes,it's got the makings of a good rat.it goes well and is registered.what should i pay for this beast?? the asking price sounds reasonable but i haven't bought a beetle for a very long time...

None of us can give you a figure without looking at it.
What is the asking price?
It could be worth from $1000 to ????
but being on a later pan will drop its value abit even though it makes it a nicer and safer car to drive.

If the body is good, ie; straight and rust free, then it's worth buying. How much you pay really depends on how good your buying strategy is vs the sellers perceived value of the car.

Don't worry so much about a 68 pan devaluing it, that's negligible at best. Early body and late pan is still a popular and practical conversion. You will probably enjoy the extra safety of disc brakes, a wider track, and z-bar suspension over the original mechanical specs anyway. If you are really lucky you may have one of the first fully Independant Rear Suspension setups from a fully imported semi auto 68 converted to manual.

Anyone who thinks thay can find something like this from $1000 is either kidding themselves, or incredibly lucky. But I agree with Joel, without seeing the car it's hard to put a value on it, but expect to pay upwards of 5 grand, at least, for an oval in the condition you have described.

when you say grafted is it a 68 body as well as chassis with oval window grafted in or the whole body is 56 and placed onto 68 chassis pick would help alot

How do I do pics,I only have them on my phone.do they need to be downloaded to photobucket or something along those lines first ?

It's a 56 body not a later model with oval window grafted in,but it does have a later model engine cover/bootlid which is the same as a 59 a mate owns.The bloke wants $4000 but I'm sure he'll bust on the price,and it is a virtually rust free body,which is fairly rare on the coast.

Email me pics to: empideluxe@hotmail.com and ill post them up

So Greenbay, did you end up buying the Oval? What happened?