Hey everyone, getting everything ready for blues lip with my car now but after rego I want to get some modern and safe wheels. The wheels I want are koya drift tek wheels and come in 17" or 18" and various widths and offsets.

Wanting to do something similar to Seb , Joel, Steve/David Carter have done and change the stud pattern.

What is the cheapest and best way to go about changing the stud pattern? I got discs on front and drums on rear and want to keep drums on rear until down the track when I have some more coin for rear discs.

I have a 1972 superbug (IRS rear end) and want to keep the guards stock and I also want the wheels to have a bit of tuck on them as I will be lowering it.

So the question is What is the best offset, diameter, width and stud pattern to make this happen?

Also if someone can tell me the breakdown of what parts I'll need to buy.

From Dylan

The first thing will be, do you have narrow front struts? if you don't I won't think the wheels will come in 17 x 5.5 inch.

You need new blank front discs and new blank rear rotors. If your staying 4 stud, this should work ok, as webbing will be suited to 4 stud. If your going 5 you need to consider exactly which drums/discs you need to maintain thickness.

Then its a matter of playing will wheel offset..... but the ones who have done it will be tbe best to solve your problems.

For stock guards with a 7" rim you'll want et40 offset and like above you'll need some narrow coil struts unless you keep the fronts smaller than 15x6.

Cheapest answer is a set of 16" Porche Boxster wheels

Perfect ET for a super

6" ET 50 and 7" ET 40

yeah yeah - not 18" - but they are cheap and they fit and they are OE Porsche

Perfect for 2 bolt front end but no good for 3 bolt, would need about 20mm spacers.

Pffft - there is ONLY 2 bolt

Yeah, you're right I can't see the harm in leaving one of the strut bolts off.
What could possibly go wrong?

Joel,

Okay thanks, so I'm guessing the combo will be 17x7 or 18x7 , et40 offset all round? Blank hubs drilled to the pattern and some coil overs from Richard?

How's that sound Joel ?

From Dylan

the only problem i can see is your only allowed to go up to 16s without engineering.

Yes that's true, but I'm not all that concerned when police aren't budging an eyelid at vans and Holden's that stock had 15's and there running chrome 20's

From Dylan

Bizzare,

where is a good source for boxter 16's? been wathcing porsche car club websites and don't see them come up

Dylan,
With 18's your going to be running some pretty thin tyres. You aslo need to look at available tire sizes.

I don't think teks come in the sizes yours going to need to clear inner & outer guards, cheat & run thick rubber instead of stock guard beading if necessary, find them used, cheap china wheels are almost free once used

Hi

I've read this document many times, its confusing in this part of the text

"The outside diameter of the wheel and tyre combination must be no more than 15mm over the largest diameter
wheel and tyre combination specified for the vehicle and not more than 15mm below"

Then it says this "Wheels that exceed the diameter and width limits for minor wheel changes must be assessed by a signatory"

Its talking about wheel diameters being exceeded, so can you only increase your wheel diameter by 15 mm? Who makes 15inch + 15 mm wheels.

Dylan my advice would be to buy some V Force spider wheels for the time being, changing stud patterns etc to suit new wheels is going to cost money.

Steve

It's wheel and tyre combination that can't change by more than 15mm Steve, so you could legally go from 15's to 17's or 18's if you can find low enough profile rubber (good luck).

I looked into that "assessed by a signatory" thing for wheels before, and basically answer was they'd sign off for wider within reason but not taller or shorter combo's.

Either way, I reckon the V Force wheels are a great option.

Quote:

Originally posted by Bizarre Quote: Originally posted by STIDUB , cheap china wheels are almost free once used For good reasons

Alright, wheels aren't an easy subject, with width, offset, tyre sizes, it all gets a bit full on depending how deep you want to go.

Brakes are easy. If you want the best, go with BAD Series brakes from Airkewld. They are by far the best money can buy. I guess, if you don't want to spend too much money, I heard Mr Sherman does some good kits. Don't by blank discs from CIP1, as they have webbing and when drilling to a different stud pattern (other than a 4x1xx) as you'll have issues down the road. Sherman's kits don't have the webbing, and if you go Porsche/Chev pattern from CIP1 they don't have any issues with the webbing either.

Airkewld brakes are a step up on both the aforementioned avenues. Pete actually offers an interchangeable hub system with his brakes. So, for example, I currently have 5x114.3 discs at the front, but if I spend another $110 I can get two new hubs at whatever pattern I want. Pretty sweet hey? You definitely get what you pay for that is for sure, quality on the Airkelwd brakes is unbelievable.

Also, depending on your PCD of brakes also depends on what your wheel options are. You need to keep this in mind when it comes to choosing wheels as well. As well as the size, width and offset, you also need to consider material depending on the application. Obviously track wheels you want to be lighter. If weight isn't a problem, then you don't need to take it into consideration when choosing a set.

DON'T BUY FAKE WHEELS! No matter how cheap they are, wheels are what is between you and the ground. Don't cheap out on brakes either, you can never have enough stopping power in my opinion.

Now, obviously with struts we are limited with options, therefore offset is key, especially if you want to keep the wheels under the guards. You're going to have to change your springs to fit wider wheels under the guards at the front as well.

Now, the easiest way to explain offset in my opinion is the higher the offset, the closer the inside of the wheel is to the inner guard. Depending on how wide you go also depends on how close your wheel gets to the inner guard, and whether or not you get full lock. I have 7.5" wide wheels all around, and I had to modify where the brake hose mounts to keep it from cutting up my tyre at full lock. I don't have any issues with the rears, and they have enough camber to tuck under the rear. I'm probably at the lowest I recommend at the front, which is a 2.5" drop with Topline MaXX struts, any lower and it would be un-drivable.

I have been told that the widest I should have gone at the front is 6 inches. This is because of the lack of weight at the front. Nothing a bag of cement can't fix. But I digress, 16x7.5" with a +35ET sit awesomely in the guards, and only a minor modification was needed to get it to stop hitting the brake hose clip... I'll have to get a picture of it to explain properly.

I bought three piece wheels, just in case I needed to modify them with sizes. I could have re-barrelled the wheels, changed the lips if need be, I wanted that security of being able to modify them if need be. Thankfully I didn't have too.

If you don't want the hassles I've just mentioned, your best bet is keeping the current brake setup, grabbing some Topline MaXX struts, and some of the Spyder wheels from Richard at VForce. Looks the goods. Otherwise, be prepared to have to do a bit of modifying to get some mad wheels under the guards and a lot of research too.

Now that, that is a long winded response! Hope it all makes sense. Good luck!

Quote:

Ah pffft you guys are full of it, Taiwan makes some of the most finely crafted rims money can buy....

They are just another set of Speedy rims I also have and in all fairness any alloy wheel would have broken with the hit they took courtesy of the North Coasts beautifully maintained roads

I have ordered a set of wheels from image wheels in the UK, number 91 on this page, they will make any diameter and et, they will change any wheel they make to suit your requirements and landed in australia they are $600 cheaper than the ROH composite's.
http://www.imagewheels.co.uk/pages/wheels_billet.html 
As one of the previous post stated, if you want the best brakes by the bad brakes, they cannot be concidered as a performance brake as they are not ventilated and some of them still use the standard front caliper, you can get vented front rotors that fit staight on to the beetle spindle along with six spot calipers, all bolt straight on.