Have another Bus rebuild on the go.Have had this body away for 10 months getting the rust and dents done.I had him open the rear air vents out 35mm each side,convert the rear of the body to use early tail lights,convert the front to use bullit indicators and cut the front intrusion panel off to use early Bay bumpers.Got some stainless items from Vietnam for a very good price.Also had a hole cut into the roof to fit a new rag sunroof I bought from the States.He has had to use different model front and sliding door-but the gaps are nearly perfect and the shut like a new Bus.

The sides are so straight - but he says they are not quite good enough for a black top coat.

One for the Suby experts- there is a heavy blue wire with a black plastic connector,that is connected to the heavy blue wire going to the starter solenoid-what was it's purpose? I have a shitty pic of it.

Nice - will be watching this with interest

you can delete/terminate that if you stick with the original vw starter wiring

Thanks binner-I had the loom done at AGT and he tagged the blue one "starter switch". I assume it goes to the solenoid terminal to tell the ECU that engine is being cranked? Andrew must be snowed under with work,because he hasn't responded to emails for a fair while.It was the other blue wire with the single black terminal cover-I can not remember where it went when I stripped the loom out.

Yes, it tells the ECU that you are starting the motor, It needs to see this signal.

Agree with Brent.

According to Andrew it will start without that wire signal but struggle.

I think it richens up the mixture to allow easier starting.

Thanks fellas - will hook it up

Decided to mount the ECU and relays/fuses in the hole below where the spare used to sit.I cut the wheel well out and will screw an ally flat panel to cover the hole.Made up an ally bracket to cable tie everything to.Also mounted the ignition module here as well.Made an ally panel to make the whole thing air tight so that all incoming air has to go thru radiator.The loom with the 3 multi pin plugs fell just right to hook up to the motor.

Going to make a battery carrier and set it back into the body on the LH side under the back seat.Have to make a wiring loom to operate the cooling fans,fuel pump,starter solenoid etc.I have to make a complete new wiring loom for the whole Bus,so might bring it down the LH side and terminate it all in this cavity as well.Mounted the fuel pump and a genuine Suby fuel filter under the tank.Tapped the og hole out to 1/4 bsp and machined a fitting with 1/4bsp for return line and silver soldered it adjacent to the outlet hole.

are you running a filter from tank to pump?. Forget the subi temp guage for fans.I terminate that wire and install a digital display thermo unit that you can set any temp on and off, I then run a "ON" lamp in dash to let me know fans are on.
I usually open up the fuel tank and weld in a dash 6 fitting then continue all the way to fuel filter.

The last Bus I did, made a mistake with the ECU signal wire for the fans and put 12 volts back to the ECU.Bought a Davies Craig adjustable controller with the probe in the top hose.Worked really well.

This is looking GREAT!

Had the whole engine bay/suspension blasted to clean it up.Also had the rear floor area done.Etch primed everything,after an hour of air blowing to get rid of the grit.Never again inside.Painted the engine bay and started assembly.Got both side radiator mounting frames in and all sealed up.Cleaned the fuel tank and the tin cover.Gave both a coat of Gun Metal hammertone.Loom and ECU back in and bolted down.I have decided to fab a lower chassis rail to use Bus rear support rubber mounts onto the original Suby engine mount frames.Then decided to use the mount to transfer the coolant across to the RH mounted radiator.When i get the trans and motor back in,will fab the mounts and have it powder coated.Took a bit of work to ensure there was no internal restrictions and no pin holes.

Going old school with the dash-will weld this Beetle dash panel into the centre of the Bay steel dash, with flat steel both sides.Will chase up a 68 Beetle KPH speedo and put 2 VDO guages to the left and wiper/light switches to the right.Have had the stop/tail light holes cut out and changed to Split stop/tail openings.Also had all the front holes welded up and Splitty bullet indicators fitted.Gave the motor a quick spruce up.

another one

......how are you plumbing your return to tank?
Do you already have your reverse throttle adaptor?

I machined up a steel spigot with 1/4 BSP thread then silver soldered alongside original tank outlet. Tapped original outlet 1/4 BSP as well.OG Suby fuel lines are on the RH side and meet up really well to tank fittings.Made the throttle body reverser from a 75mm exhaust pipe donut.

nice, i like the cut of your jib....

Hey mate,

Progress looks great.

Not sure if you'd be interested, but I'm bought a Aluminium Fuel tank from Red9Design in the UK which I'm no longer going to be using if you're interested in it. The made it specifically for their subaru install:

https://www.red9design.co.uk/type2.htm 

pm if you're interested